Our "new" Cape Dory 36 -- 1980 vintage -- has an engine frame and mounts that have begun to rust. They have deposited quite a bit of this rust in the engine sump. A couple of oil leaks have contributed, making quite a mess. This leads to several questions:
(1) After I brush off the remaining rust, what is the best paint to use on the steel frame and mounts? I am particularly concerned that I won't be able to give the existing frame a perfect, given that it is in the most difficult part of the boat to reach. Are any of the paints that advertise themselves as rust-inhibitors actually up to the job?
(2) After I get the rust under control, do you have any suggestions on cleaning out the gunk at the bottom of the engine sump?
(NODQTD = New owner dumb question of the day.)
Thanks!
Russell
NODQTD: Rusty engine frame, gunky engine sump ??
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Matt Cawthorne
Re: NODQTD: Rusty engine frame, gunky engine sump ??
Russel,
I have had the same problems on my 36. I found that the Perkins blue paint that is sold by Foley marine does a good job. You can even use it on an oily surface! You are correct, you can't get all surfaces. The best thing to do is keep that sump dry. When I bought the Paricia Louise I thought that the engine sump was 6 to 8 inches shallower. There was a layer of oily stuff that had solidified into a layer hard enough that washers and the like would rest on it. When I cleaned it I found several tools, 5 or 6 nuts, a hand full of washers and about 50 or 75 wire ties!
When I used to get lots of water in the sump I used a water puppy impeller pump to pump it into jugs. As for cleaning I just wedge my arm down between the front of the engine and the surrounding structure. I also have a brush on a stick that I use to push around paper towels. Once the water is out I use paper towels to mop up the debris. Keep an oil absorbent pad under the engine and as fresh oil makes its way forward it carries any dirt with it. After a while it is not too bad under there. I am down to just one oil leak. Not bad for a Perkins 4.108.
Stop the water from getting into the sump and it will help tremendously. I found that the stuffing box can be adjusted if you are careful to stop the water without wearing on the shaft. I also found that the wooden cockpit locker coamings leaked and re-sealed them. I also found that the fuel fill and waste pumpout fixtures leaked around their edges so I sealed them (see old post of mine). I also found that the emergency tiller access plate leaked and sealed that. I also found one of the cleats leaking and re-sealed that. I also found a hole under the water pasage under the turning block that would funnel water in and sealed that. I guess that is what we get for buying an older boat. The best way to look for leaks is to sit in each locker and in the engine compartment on a day when it is raining hard. You will find the leaks easily that way. The sump is now nice and dry on my boat and cleaning up underneath the engine is minimal work. If I could just stop that last oil leak in the engine!
Good luck
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
I have had the same problems on my 36. I found that the Perkins blue paint that is sold by Foley marine does a good job. You can even use it on an oily surface! You are correct, you can't get all surfaces. The best thing to do is keep that sump dry. When I bought the Paricia Louise I thought that the engine sump was 6 to 8 inches shallower. There was a layer of oily stuff that had solidified into a layer hard enough that washers and the like would rest on it. When I cleaned it I found several tools, 5 or 6 nuts, a hand full of washers and about 50 or 75 wire ties!
When I used to get lots of water in the sump I used a water puppy impeller pump to pump it into jugs. As for cleaning I just wedge my arm down between the front of the engine and the surrounding structure. I also have a brush on a stick that I use to push around paper towels. Once the water is out I use paper towels to mop up the debris. Keep an oil absorbent pad under the engine and as fresh oil makes its way forward it carries any dirt with it. After a while it is not too bad under there. I am down to just one oil leak. Not bad for a Perkins 4.108.
Stop the water from getting into the sump and it will help tremendously. I found that the stuffing box can be adjusted if you are careful to stop the water without wearing on the shaft. I also found that the wooden cockpit locker coamings leaked and re-sealed them. I also found that the fuel fill and waste pumpout fixtures leaked around their edges so I sealed them (see old post of mine). I also found that the emergency tiller access plate leaked and sealed that. I also found one of the cleats leaking and re-sealed that. I also found a hole under the water pasage under the turning block that would funnel water in and sealed that. I guess that is what we get for buying an older boat. The best way to look for leaks is to sit in each locker and in the engine compartment on a day when it is raining hard. You will find the leaks easily that way. The sump is now nice and dry on my boat and cleaning up underneath the engine is minimal work. If I could just stop that last oil leak in the engine!
Good luck
Matt
Russell wrote: Our "new" Cape Dory 36 -- 1980 vintage -- has an engine frame and mounts that have begun to rust. They have deposited quite a bit of this rust in the engine sump. A couple of oil leaks have contributed, making quite a mess. This leads to several questions:
(1) After I brush off the remaining rust, what is the best paint to use on the steel frame and mounts? I am particularly concerned that I won't be able to give the existing frame a perfect, given that it is in the most difficult part of the boat to reach. Are any of the paints that advertise themselves as rust-inhibitors actually up to the job?
(2) After I get the rust under control, do you have any suggestions on cleaning out the gunk at the bottom of the engine sump?
(NODQTD = New owner dumb question of the day.)
Thanks!
Russell
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net