Companion way boards

[Allan]

I want to replace the single piece companion way drop board on my Typhoon (#1671), which is start to delaminate. I'm thinking of using three solid teak boards as I have seen on other Ty's. Any suggestions? Also has anyone used something like lexan? Can you get it at home depot? Is it easy to cut?

[Tom]

You can use lexan but it's not inexpensive and it's not easy to cut unless you have the right equipment. Don't forget they use it for bullet proof "glass" sometimes. When exposed to UV it discolors with age and also tends to show scratches and stress lines -- at least that's what my dodger windows made of lexan did. I doubt if Home Base would have it, but you can get it at a glass shop and they also have the tools to cut it to size for you.

[johnny of STORK]

I just cut some large sheets of 1/2" Lexan a couple of weeks ago with a sharp skilsaw -- it cuts like a dream. Plexiglas is the one that shatters. It might discolor, but I doubt if it ever would show crazing or stress-cracking. On the other hand, it does scratch quite easily. If you cut it, you need to leave the protective sheeting on it until you are done. I don't know what it costs -- it was provided by a customer for a fabrication job.

Johnny

[Bill]

Allan...I assume your board is plywood since it is delaminating. Best bet is to do it right and use three teak boards. Easy to work with, fun to refinish and will look great! I just Cetoled my 5 boards with 3 coats of base and 3 of gloss. Set for another 4 years. Also, I use a very large LL Bean bag to hold them in place in the port lazerette. I am having one lexan board made to let in some light.
Good luck. Bill

[rtbates]

Lexan will work, I've used it on OTHER boats. BUT a Cape Dory with lexan boards? NOT NICE! or Pretty! I'd go with the recommendation to build solid teak boards. It's simply the right thing to do!

randy 25D Seraph #161

[Boyd]

While Lexan is more resistant to breakage, its also more susceptible to UV degregation. Lexan will craze and yellow faster than Acrylic. If you want them to last use Acrylic boards. Plexiglass is just a trade name for Acrylic.

After you price 1/2" or thicker Plexiglass you may find that Teak is not such a bad choice.

I suggest cutting these on a table saw with a blade made specifically for plastics. It works much better. You should also consider a nice bevel at the joints between the boards so that rain will drain out. You will want pretty thick stock so that the natural flexibility in the Acrylic will not cause them to bow outward.

I think like some other board members that teak is much more in character for CD's and I have no plans to replace my solid teak boards with plastic.

If you had a Hunter then Plex would be much more in character.

Boyd
s/v Tern
CD30 MkII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

[Bill Goldsmith]

. . . a Cape Dory with lexan boards? NOT NICE! or Pretty!

I tend to agree, but I can also see the benefit of clear plastic as an alternative on a rainy day spent down below working on a project or reading a good book . . .

[Andy Denmark]

Plain Lexan does degrade with UV exposure -- discolors and eventually cracks in a spiderweb fashion. Plain Lexan also scratches easily. MR-10, which is Lexan with a scratch and mar resistant (thus the "MR" name) coating is highly UV resisistant. It is slightly more expensive than Lexan but at the price of Lexan what's another few bucks?

A Lexan hatch board is a nice addition to any Cape Dory. It makes the cave-like interior much brighter and easier to live in. It doesn't have to be thick -- mine is 1/4" -- and it is unbelievably strong. Nice additions would be a teak frame and a slot for the locking tang with the Spartan bronze trim plates on either side. The board easily stores under a settee berth cushion. MR-10 is available in several tints. Clear works well for drop board replacement while the Light Smoke Grey seems better (to me) for replacing overhead hatch lenses.

I think McMaster-Kerr caries MR-10 but I can't put my hands on the number right now as I am in Deale, MD on a boat delivery (Herrington Harbor North, where there are several CD-s).

Check out MR-10 before deciding against this idea, IMHO it really provides a nice enhancement toward the liveability of any boat.
________
Dodge Charger Specifications

[barfwinkle]

Hello to All

I agree with Andy. This past winter, I cut a piece of lexan to use as an additional middle insert/drop board. I love the extra light in the cabin. I only use it while on board, otherwise I just have the original board in place. But that is some tough stuff to cut, or my saw must have been really dull.

Fair Winds from Oklahoma, where we hope to get to the boat this weekend (storms or no)!

[Bill O.]

Being faced with the same dilema, I've decided to install a 4" bronze opening port to the center board. Keep an eye on the helmsman, let in some light, let the breeze flow, and what could be classier?!

Bill
Nor'Sea 27 "Epiphany"
formerly Cape Dory 31 "Sea Myth"

[mjohn]

Allen,

Just read your post about your TY #1671 and the companionway board delaminating and your thoughts about making three teak replacement boards. I own TY #1670 and have two boards vs. three vs. your one.

I believe three boards are original to the boat, but your hull number may suggest otherwise. Do you happen to know if your companionway board was original to your TY?

[Kevin Kaldenbach]

I had a piece of 3/4 plexiglass made to replace my lower drop board. They also made a hatch in it with a flip up lid. I had this done so that I can leave my boards in and still see and operate my GPS mounted in the companionway. Now I can pour the coals to my boat in this windy Corpus Christi bay and not worry about getting water in the cabin.