Looking to the day when the Raritan gives up the ghost, and from reading the board it seems that there are only two candidates that don't require removing the deck from the hull, cutting an access port in the topsides, or removing the engine: The Volvo QL, and the Isotemp Regular, both of similar construction with removable insulation thus allowing entry through the quarterberth hatch. It also appears that the latter is no longer available.
So for those of you who have installed the Volvo QL: Which size? How much access area do you need in addition to the overall length of 16.5" for the 20L and 22" for the 30L? Has anyone mounted the QL athwartships?
The engine hoses are 5/8"...what am I looking at in the way of needed adapters?
Hints, tips, suggestions welcome.
Replacement water heater for CD36
Moderator: bobdugan
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Bill Cochrane
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 13:42
- Location: Cape Dory 36 #114
s/v Phoenix
Replacement water heater for CD36
Regards, Bill
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Guest
water heater
Bill,
You may also want to consider the atlantic t6e.
It is a stainless steel rectangular water heater that fits through the port lazarette and is a close fit to where the original raritan is.
Disassemble as much of the old unit as you can and you will be able to get it out......use gloves to remove it. I am not sure if you will need additional or different fittings. The only way you will know is upon reviewing the unit. As with prior posts, the biggest pain seems to be actually securing the unit to the shelf. Also, via a recent post, care must be taken after installation, that a possible airlock can possibly cause engine overheating when first using a new unit.
good luck,
Charlie
You may also want to consider the atlantic t6e.
It is a stainless steel rectangular water heater that fits through the port lazarette and is a close fit to where the original raritan is.
Disassemble as much of the old unit as you can and you will be able to get it out......use gloves to remove it. I am not sure if you will need additional or different fittings. The only way you will know is upon reviewing the unit. As with prior posts, the biggest pain seems to be actually securing the unit to the shelf. Also, via a recent post, care must be taken after installation, that a possible airlock can possibly cause engine overheating when first using a new unit.
good luck,
Charlie
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Cathy Monaghan
- Posts: 3503
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 08:17
- Location: 1986 CD32 Realization #3, Rahway, NJ, Raritan Bay -- CDSOA Member since 2000. Greenline 39 Electra
- Contact:
We installed the Volvo QL 7.9
Hi Bill,
We replaced the old 6 gallon Raritan hotwater heater on our CD32 last year with a Volvo QL 7.9 gallon model.
It was much easier to install than the old Raritan was to remove. We had to remove the fittings from the Raritan, cut off the steel cover and remove the insulation. We also had to remove the wood coaming that surrounds the top of the lazarette before we could remove the old tank. Removing that coaming was not easy either. But while it was off we refinished it with penetrating epoxy since it was a source of leaks.
You have to disassemble the Volvo QL which is really easy and then re-assemble it in place.
We rebuilt the shelf which is shared by both the hotwater heater and the battery box aboard the 32. We extended the shelf aft to make it longer and we also made it wider to accommodate the feet of the new tank. (The Raritan was only held on by two screws on the 32 since they couldn't get at the back feet to screw them in. The new Volvo is thru-bolted into the shelf.) We cut a hole in the forward bottom support of the shelf so that we could get an arm under there to secure the bolts and afterwards routed a couple of hoses through it.
Since the tank is manufactured in Europe, the fittings that come with the tank are BPT rather than NPT, so you'll have to make sure that you ask for the conversion kit when you order the tank. You can order it from Great Water Inc. if you decide to go with the Volvo QL.
Hope this helps,
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
We replaced the old 6 gallon Raritan hotwater heater on our CD32 last year with a Volvo QL 7.9 gallon model.
It was much easier to install than the old Raritan was to remove. We had to remove the fittings from the Raritan, cut off the steel cover and remove the insulation. We also had to remove the wood coaming that surrounds the top of the lazarette before we could remove the old tank. Removing that coaming was not easy either. But while it was off we refinished it with penetrating epoxy since it was a source of leaks.
You have to disassemble the Volvo QL which is really easy and then re-assemble it in place.
We rebuilt the shelf which is shared by both the hotwater heater and the battery box aboard the 32. We extended the shelf aft to make it longer and we also made it wider to accommodate the feet of the new tank. (The Raritan was only held on by two screws on the 32 since they couldn't get at the back feet to screw them in. The new Volvo is thru-bolted into the shelf.) We cut a hole in the forward bottom support of the shelf so that we could get an arm under there to secure the bolts and afterwards routed a couple of hoses through it.
Since the tank is manufactured in Europe, the fittings that come with the tank are BPT rather than NPT, so you'll have to make sure that you ask for the conversion kit when you order the tank. You can order it from Great Water Inc. if you decide to go with the Volvo QL.
Hope this helps,
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
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Bill Cochrane
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 13:42
- Location: Cape Dory 36 #114
s/v Phoenix
Questions on the Volvo
Cathy, thanks for the note. How do you like the Volvo?
A few questions on the installation:
How much room should I plan on for fittings (ELs, probably) and access in addition to the stated length? To fit the 30L model I'm going to have to relocate a house battery and should have about 5-6" to the aft end (where connections will be) of the tank...is that sufficient?
Is the BPT to NPT "conversion" adapters or replacing the fittings already in the tank?
Glad you mentioned cutting the access hatch in the shelf support bulkhead, I'd been considering taking a hole saw t that myself. Also looks like a good spot for storing small spares such as fuel filters, belts, etc...any thoughts here?
Thanks again.
A few questions on the installation:
How much room should I plan on for fittings (ELs, probably) and access in addition to the stated length? To fit the 30L model I'm going to have to relocate a house battery and should have about 5-6" to the aft end (where connections will be) of the tank...is that sufficient?
Is the BPT to NPT "conversion" adapters or replacing the fittings already in the tank?
Glad you mentioned cutting the access hatch in the shelf support bulkhead, I'd been considering taking a hole saw t that myself. Also looks like a good spot for storing small spares such as fuel filters, belts, etc...any thoughts here?
Thanks again.
Regards, Bill
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David Sabourin
- Posts: 102
- Joined: Feb 6th, '05, 16:22
- Location: Mad HatterII CD36 Hull#151 1988
Tracy's Creek, Maryland
Hot Water Heater
I just changed out my old Raritan 6 gal heater. What a pain in the ------. But, it can be done without damaging or cutting the boat. You have to cut away the outer shell and fittings and then the main body will pass through the opening.
We bought a 6 gal model from Atlantic. It was about $500 or less with the tax. It slid right through the opening and fits nicely where the old one was located. It was a little testy fastening the hold down clips at the forward edge. Just an inch or so clearance from the bulkhead forward. I needed all the space I could keep aft for battery upgrades. What I did was, go the my local hardware store and buy a $16, 18" long screwdriver. I inched my way inside the storage area and got over the top of the heater and slid the screwdriver along with a screw glued to the end into the space and it worked. On the third try for the rear screw and first time for the second. Trick was the long screwdriver.....
Happy with hot water again,
David
We bought a 6 gal model from Atlantic. It was about $500 or less with the tax. It slid right through the opening and fits nicely where the old one was located. It was a little testy fastening the hold down clips at the forward edge. Just an inch or so clearance from the bulkhead forward. I needed all the space I could keep aft for battery upgrades. What I did was, go the my local hardware store and buy a $16, 18" long screwdriver. I inched my way inside the storage area and got over the top of the heater and slid the screwdriver along with a screw glued to the end into the space and it worked. On the third try for the rear screw and first time for the second. Trick was the long screwdriver.....
Happy with hot water again,
David
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Bill Cochrane
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 13:42
- Location: Cape Dory 36 #114
s/v Phoenix
David, which model atlantic, and...
which opening did it slide through? On my CD36, the largest opening is the hatch into the quarterberth at just under 13" high (the narrowest dimension).
The port cockpit locker is less than 11" IIRC.
Thanks.
The port cockpit locker is less than 11" IIRC.
Thanks.
Regards, Bill
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paul marti
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Mar 31st, '05, 23:12
- Location: CD 33 Willow, Lake Saint Clair, Michigan
isotemp heater
Bill, I too have replaced my 6 gallon raritan, a real treat to remove. At first I purchased a Seaward, a piece of..., well shall we say it was returned. I just purchased the Isotemp slim water heater it comes in 4, 5, &6 gallon sizes. The nice thing about them (one of many nice features) is the size, all are 11 7/16" x 12" x 21, 26 or 31''s depending on which size. It is extremely well made and has a built in temp regulator, adjustable, to conserve hot water and avoid burns. The mounting brackets are adjustable. It appears to be very well made and practical sailor gave them a great review, one of their picks of the year a few years back. As far as mounting goes I fashioned a new shelf top, so to speak, attached the heater to it and slid the whole new top onto the current shelf and then attached the new shelf to the old, it was quite simple, and I was able to avoid the afternoon in the lazarette. At the same time I made the shelf a bit larger to accommodate brackets for hoses and wire harness it turned out to be a pretty clean look. I used 3/4'" plywood and put three coats of poly to seal it. The entire project took a half days work and a bit of pondering time. Good luck, Paul Marti
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paul marti
- Posts: 53
- Joined: Mar 31st, '05, 23:12
- Location: CD 33 Willow, Lake Saint Clair, Michigan
PS
Bill, I forgot to mention the Isotemp is still available (mine came last week) not through West or Boat US but either Defender or
e-marine-inc.com , both had identical pricing, emarine had mine to me in 4 days shipping was only $12.50. Paul Marti
e-marine-inc.com , both had identical pricing, emarine had mine to me in 4 days shipping was only $12.50. Paul Marti
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Cathy Monaghan
- Posts: 3503
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 08:17
- Location: 1986 CD32 Realization #3, Rahway, NJ, Raritan Bay -- CDSOA Member since 2000. Greenline 39 Electra
- Contact:
Re: Questions on the Volvo
Hi Bill,
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
My husband has promised to take some photos of our hotwater heater installation for Bill Goldsmith. He hasn't taken them yet (he's rebuilding the exhaust side of the engine and has removed the hoses from the engine to the expansion tank and the hotwater heater), but when he does snap those photos I'll try to make sure that both of you see them. They should give a good idea of clearances and hose routing but the CD32 is not the same as the 36 so I don't know how helpful the actual numbers would be.Bill Cochrane wrote:Cathy, thanks for the note. How do you like the Volvo?
A few questions on the installation:
How much room should I plan on for fittings (ELs, probably) and access in addition to the stated length? To fit the 30L model I'm going to have to relocate a house battery and should have about 5-6" to the aft end (where connections will be) of the tank...is that sufficient?
Is the BPT to NPT "conversion" adapters or replacing the fittings already in the tank?
Glad you mentioned cutting the access hatch in the shelf support bulkhead, I'd been considering taking a hole saw t that myself. Also looks like a good spot for storing small spares such as fuel filters, belts, etc...any thoughts here?
Thanks again.
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
-
Cathy Monaghan
- Posts: 3503
- Joined: Feb 5th, '05, 08:17
- Location: 1986 CD32 Realization #3, Rahway, NJ, Raritan Bay -- CDSOA Member since 2000. Greenline 39 Electra
- Contact:
Photos of the QL 7.9 gal. hotwater heater on our CD32
As promised, here are some photos of the VolvoPenta QL 7.9 gallon hot water heater that we installed aboard our CD32 in 2004. It replaced the original 6 gallon Raritan.
The QL hot water tank is sitting on a new shelfbed in the port cockpit lazarette which is both wider and longer than the original to accommodate the mounting feet of the tank. The mounting feet on the new tank are thru-bolted whereas the old tank was held in place with screws.
The battery box is also new. It accommodates 2 Group 27 batteries which replaced the 2 Group 24s. The shelf also had to be enlarged for the new battery box. Note the addtional support (the two braces) below the battery box shelf.
Click on any of the photos below for an enlargement.
<a href="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... 1.jpg"></a>
Note the hole in the face of the shelf below the water tank in the photo above. We created that hole for two reasons: 1) so that we could get an arm and tools beneath the shelf so that we could secure the bolts for the mounting feet, and 2) so that we could route the coolant carrying hoses from/to the engine behind and below the battery box shelf to the water tank without the hoses taking up precious space in the lazarette. The hoses for the old tank were routed behind and above the battery box.
So we still have lots of room in the lazarett for the fenders, dock lines, bucket, hose, and trolling motor that we carry. With all of that stuff removed from the lazarette, we still have room enough to move around down there and to crawl into the engine compartment behind the engine.
<a href="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... 2.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... 3.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... 4.jpg"></a>
<a href=""http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... 5.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... 6.jpg"></a>
I hope you can make head or tail of the photos. I labelled them the best I could.
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
The QL hot water tank is sitting on a new shelfbed in the port cockpit lazarette which is both wider and longer than the original to accommodate the mounting feet of the tank. The mounting feet on the new tank are thru-bolted whereas the old tank was held in place with screws.
The battery box is also new. It accommodates 2 Group 27 batteries which replaced the 2 Group 24s. The shelf also had to be enlarged for the new battery box. Note the addtional support (the two braces) below the battery box shelf.
Click on any of the photos below for an enlargement.
<a href="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... 1.jpg"></a>
Note the hole in the face of the shelf below the water tank in the photo above. We created that hole for two reasons: 1) so that we could get an arm and tools beneath the shelf so that we could secure the bolts for the mounting feet, and 2) so that we could route the coolant carrying hoses from/to the engine behind and below the battery box shelf to the water tank without the hoses taking up precious space in the lazarette. The hoses for the old tank were routed behind and above the battery box.
So we still have lots of room in the lazarett for the fenders, dock lines, bucket, hose, and trolling motor that we carry. With all of that stuff removed from the lazarette, we still have room enough to move around down there and to crawl into the engine compartment behind the engine.
<a href="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... 2.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... 3.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... 4.jpg"></a>
<a href=""http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... 5.jpg"></a>
<a href="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... .jpg"><img width="540" src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y117/C ... 6.jpg"></a>
I hope you can make head or tail of the photos. I labelled them the best I could.
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay