Spartan seacock flange nut

[ricks]

I damaged the flange nut on one of my seacocks while servicing. The seacock itself is fine, the corners of the hex on the nut are rounded. I am hesitant to use it again since it was so difficult to remove in the first place. Of course, it could have something to do with the fact it had not been serviced in 20 years by the PO.

I contacted Spartan and was informed that they do not sell any seacock parts since they are UL listed and they have an issue providing replacement parts.

Anyone know of a source for these flange nuts? Seems a shame to spend the money for a new seacock when it only needs a nut.

Rick

[ricks]

Thought I'd move this to the top and try again.

I am heading out next week to reassemble and if I haven't found a replacement flange nut I guess I am looking at installing a new (very expensive) seacock.

Not sure I understand the logic of not selling this replacement part? I understand that a seacock is the "last line of defense" and you do not want to compromise, but we are talking about a nut, not trying to retrofit a potentially mismatched barrel. Replacement handles are sold, and I would consider this part to be almost as innocuous.

Any ideas on where to find a replacement, or thoughts on whether I am taking an unnecessary risk?

Rick

[Jim Sullivan]

Rick:

What size seacock are you referring to? I have a spare 3/4" seacock for the galley sink on my CD22D that I replaced with a new one. The flange nut and locking nut on the spare that I have are fine. If this is the size you need, let me know. I believe the raw water seacock is also 3/4". The seacocks for the cockpit drains, I believe, are 1 1/4". I do not have parts for the larger size.

Jim

[winthrop fisher]

Hi.
i would replace the parts or get a new one, and be done with it.
winthrop

I damaged the flange nut on one of my seacocks while servicing. The seacock itself is fine, the corners of the hex on the nut are rounded. I am hesitant to use it again since it was so difficult to remove in the first place. Of course, it could have something to do with the fact it had not been serviced in 20 years by the PO.

I contacted Spartan and was informed that they do not sell any seacock parts since they are UL listed and they have an issue providing replacement parts.

Anyone know of a source for these flange nuts? Seems a shame to spend the money for a new seacock when it only needs a nut.

Rick

[Tom]

Surely the threads must be standard American threads. There are so many threads per inch, so a 5/16 by 18 means 5/16s in diameter and 18 threads per inch. Or take the old rounded nut to the hardware store and try it on a bunch of bolts. Once you know what thread pattern you need, can't you just buy a bronze or stainless nut and then put it on the grinding wheel and grind it down to whatever thickness you need? There's not a lot of stress on the nuts as you don't tighten your barrel very tight

You could also just grind the old nut until you get nice square sides with corners that aren't rounded and then use an adjustable wrench to tighten it if it isn't a standard size. Once you know the size nut you need, you also might find that other manufacturers are more user friendly than Spartan and don't have a problem selling you a nut as a spare part.

BTW I've heard that Lubriplate is the best grease to use when greasing your seacocks after you've cleaned them up and seated them. I'm trying it for the first time this haulout and will know better in two years.

[ricks]

Thanks for the replies. See my comments!

Jim - Thanks for the offer but it is the 1-1/4" version. Not for the cockpit drains but for the septic outlet. I believe the 3/4" has a 5/16" thread and the 1-1/4" seacock has a 3/8" thread. Rotten luck!

Tom, this is not just a nut, it is a flange nut that has a 15/16" hex with a ~1-3/4" flange - it is an integral piece whose flange retains the stop washer and barrel in the seacock body. There is a lock nut to lock against the flange nut when the flange nut is tensioned properly to retain the barrel. It is a standard thread - 5/16 or 3/8" depending on the seacock size I believe. As for grease there are two recommended options - either Morey's red (available at Napa or other car parts retailers) or Spartan's seacock grease which can be ordered directly from Spartan.

Winthrop, I am attempting to avoid spending $100s when all I need is a nut.

Thanks again for the responses but I am still unfortunately looking for a $10.00 nut to avoid the expense of a new seacock. Seems like Spartan has a good thing going here.

Rick

[Jim Sullivan]

Rick:

An alternative to buying a whole new seacock may be the following:

1) Cut or grind down the nut flush with the flange.
2) Braze a new bronze nut to the flange that has been sized to the original.

A brazed joint should be fine for this application. You might want to try contacting a few local welding/machine shops for information and pricing. I do not think this would be very expensive compared to a new seacock. I would be surprised if this job cost more than $25. You might want to pick up a bronze nut of the proper size since the welder will likely not have one. The welder or shop could likely do step #1 and #2 above.

Jim

[Jim F]

You can try McMaster-Carr they have SS Flange & Thin Jam nuts in there catalog, www.mcmaster.com gets you to there webb site and some where around page 2998 you will find the flange nuts. The jam nut are a few pages before. Hope this helps. You might try Fastenal also they have a prety good selection also. Good luck Jim F.CD30K Heron

[L DeMers]

Don't do it. Morey's Red turns to cement when it dries out a little. The original poster for using Moreys Red has frozen seacocks because of the lub.

Stick with The Spartan Grease. One jar will last 10 years.

Larry Demers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30c Lake Superior

[ricks]

Thanks Larry.

I just ordered and received a jar of the Spartan grease because I was having difficulty finding the Moreys - guess it was for the best.

Rick