Masthead Wind Meter Installation??

MEsposito · Post by **MEsposito** » Mar 15th, '05, 08:53

I need a little advice from you folks with a little more experience than I. I have a 83 CD31 and I want to install a wind meter instrument. I will have to install the sending unit at the top of the mast and of course, this is going to involve running the cable down the mast, then to the unit. My questions are:

1. Is this even feasible to attempt without removing the mast? I have no problem working at the top, but will I be able to feed the cable through?
2. What can I expect to find inside the mast? PVC tube? Foam?

If anyone has tried this before, I would appreciated any advice. Also, if this is a foolhardy idea, don't hesitate to say so.

Thanks

Mike Esposito

CD31 Larissa #23
Biloxi, Ms

The Patriot · Post by **The Patriot** » Mar 16th, '05, 08:49

MEsposito wrote:... I want to install a wind meter instrument. I will have to install the sending unit at the top of the mast and of course, this is going to involve running the cable down the mast, then to the unit ...

1. Is this even feasible to attempt without removing the mast? ...

2. What can I expect to find inside the mast? ...

I haven't read the other responses so I hope I'm not just repeating what someone else has suggested.

First of all, these days I am not so sure that you need to run wires. There are quite a few wireless units (obviously raising the battery question) that are available, at least in the very few sailing publications I've seen lately. Evidently the "wi-fi" craze in home networking has spread to the water.

Next, inside a typical extrusion you will find 1 or 2 small tracks similar to sail slide tracks in the aft portion of the mast. In order to use them you will most definitely have to pull the stick, since you must remove the masthead fitting. As for what's inside your particular mast, it's impossible to say. It depends on what the previous owner decided to do about the loose wire problem, and there are many ideas on this. Note that the tracks in the extrusion are in my view a very good idea, and CD used to sell small slides specifically for this purpose.

Finally, you can run wires without pulling the stick, but it's quite an adventure. You need a hole near the truck and of course near the foot of the mast. Then use something like a small length of bicycle chain and string to get the fish line through. then, ..., etc., etc. I have seen riggers do it this way, but note that you will end up with loose wires hanging in the spar. This is obviously a noise issue, but in time it becomes a chafe issue also.

bottomscraper · Post by **bottomscraper** » Mar 16th, '05, 10:06

Tacktick makes wireless units. The sending unit is solar powered, I assume it has some sort of built in battery for when it's dark out! They appear to be a bit pricey.

http://www.tacktick.com/products/view_p ... sp?prod=47

Bill Goldsmith · Post by **Bill Goldsmith** » Mar 16th, '05, 11:02

Mike,

If there is foam in the mast I can't recommend doing the job while stepped. However I doubt there is foam. The 31 is a cutter rig with at least one internal halyard and an internal jib boom topping lift, so I doubt there is foam in there (unless someone made some major changes).

If there is no foam, you can do the job with the mast up. Use the opposing long-tail zip-tie method to eliminate rattles. Just place long zip ties on the wire as you drop it down the mast, alternating the orientation of the ties (and use KerryDeare's bike chain method!). The opposing zip-ties should act as a stand-off to eliminate rattling, while minimizing possible interference with internal halyards. You'll want to devise a strain relief, so that the weight of the wire is not tugging on the electrical connection.

Bill

John Danicic · Post by **John Danicic** » Mar 16th, '05, 12:11

Mike:

I concur with Bill on the zip tie method. With the mast down, we used it successfully on my 36 and my brother's 33. No rattles or bangs from the wires at all. We did have to take the head box off which you would not be able to do if the mast was standing and you went aloft via halyard. A solution would be to drill the wire entrance hole at the top large enough to fit the zip ties and wire through. A good, firm electrical snake would be needed to push the wire downward. It would be a tedious, fussy process but so would taking the mast down and putting it back up. One good thing is that you would have a great view while stuffing zip ties and wire into a little hole. Good luck.

John Danicic
CD 36 Mariah #124
Lake Superior

rtbates · Post by **rtbates** » Mar 16th, '05, 14:20

One method to feed wires thru the mast involves attaching a couple of light messenger lines to one of the internal halyards. This assumes of course that the internal halyards are NOT in separate enclosures. Be sure to always leave one messenger line in the mast until your ready to re-run the used halyard back thru.

randy

Warren Kaplan · Post by **Warren Kaplan** » Mar 16th, '05, 14:58

I also concur with the wire tie or zip tie method. Had it done inside the mast of my CD27 over last winter and the "wire slap" inside the mast that drove me crazy has been banished forever!!

MEsposito · Post by **MEsposito** » Mar 16th, '05, 17:15

All,

Thanks for all the info. I am going to give this a try. The zip ties are a great idea! I'll let you know how it turns out.

Mike
CD31 Larissa #23

Russell · Post by **Russell** » Mar 16th, '05, 18:20

Bill Goldsmith wrote:Mike,

If there is foam in the mast I can't recommend doing the job while stepped. However I doubt there is foam. The 31 is a cutter rig with at least one internal halyard and an internal jib boom topping lift, so I doubt there is foam in there (unless someone made some major changes).

I am in the middle of changing my halyards to internal and rewiring my mast. My 84 CD 36, which already had the internal staysail halyard did indeed have foam in it. I spent over an hour today trying to get it out, a rather annoying job.

The Cape Dory Board