Hull polish & CD26 sale price

[DGarrity]

This year I will be purchasing a 1986 CD 26 Sailboat from a relative. I
If you were the buyer, what would you say was a fair asking price?

Also, I would like to clean and polish the white hull section above the boot stripe. Does anyone have any ideas on products and how to's to make this shine?



DGarrity@Allstate.com

[Tom]

This year I will be purchasing a 1986 CD 26 Sailboat from a relative. I
If you were the buyer, what would you say was a fair asking price?

Also, I would like to clean and polish the white hull section above the boot stripe. Does anyone have any ideas on products and how to's to make this shine?

I've tried a lot of things over the years and this is the procedure that works for me. You need to rent or get hold of one of the low speed buffers that go in a circular motion. (The high speed grinders will burn through your gelcoat) The random orbital types advertised in West and available in car supply stores just won't do. Out here in CA the low speed buffers rent for about $20-25 a day. Lighter is better if you have a choice because you'll be holding it over your head all day. You get one of the wool buffing pads that look like that sheep skin car seat cover stuff. I think the 3M Rubbing Compound is the best even though a little more expensive. I haven't been able to make Mequiars or any of the other brands work. The liquid kind with a spout. You squirt a little on the pad and go to work. Keep moving slowly don't burn a hole by staying in one spot. After you get around go over it again with 3M polishing compound. Finally apply your favorite automobile wax. I use 2000 or Turtle Wax "once a year" wax. Give it a couple of coats of that and it looks like new - guaranteed. If it isn't too bad you might be able to skip the rubbing compound and go straight to the polishing compound, or if not bad at all go right to the car polish. Redo the car polish every year when you haul out and she'll always look new. BTW the portion of the hull between the bootstripe and the gunwhale is called the "topsides". As far as a price goes someone else will have to help you there, but conditon and gear included always is a factor in the price.



TacCambria@thegrid.net

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

Hanalei is a CD-30, 1984. Her hull wasn't nicely polished last year when I purchased her, she had been on the hard for at least 2 years, so, this year before she went in I got a bottle of the 3M polish/compound cleaner wax. I applied it with a random orbit buffer, and polished it off by hand. It took off all the old oxydation, and left a very nice shine. I don't know that I would do that every year, as I don't know how agressive the compound is, but it cleaned her up nicely this time.

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30

[Dave and Jane Olson]

Last year I used this combination on our 25D Sophie, followed by West Marine boat polish with Teflon. It worked very well to get the dirt off with the vinegar combo, and the polish had some kind of mild compound that finished the job. Fantastic!!!

As to the price, our 1984 25D with Triad trailer, original sails and no upgrades such as sails and electronics, we bought for $21,000.

Considerations that affected our sense of value... Diesel engine; fresh water boat sailed in Wisconsin; sailed lightly during short summers; stored indoors over the long winters; trailer; the seller was a true gentleman; entire boat in great shape.

This year I will be purchasing a 1986 CD 26 Sailboat from a relative. I
If you were the buyer, what would you say was a fair asking price?

Also, I would like to clean and polish the white hull section above the boot stripe. Does anyone have any ideas on products and how to's to make this shine?

OlsonAcre@compuserve.com

[Walt Bilofsky]

Also, I would like to clean and polish the white hull section above the boot stripe. Does anyone have any ideas on products and how to's to make this shine?

If it's really bad, you could consider a fiberglass restorer. Powerboat Reports' April issue rates 8 of them. These are clear resin coatings which, according to the article, really work well. They require 5-6 coats, but dry so fast you can keep moving around the boat and put them on continuously. Three maintenance coats each year are recommended.

The best rated one was Poli-Glow, followed by New Glass. They gave a 12" - 15" deep reflection, wearing to 2" after a year. (The article said even 1" was a vast improvement over nothing.)

There is also a product called Microshield, which is only available with professional application. It's said to be expensive but much better than the do-it-yourself stuff. It produced a 24" deep shine, wearing to 15" after a year and 10" after 21 months.



bilofsky@toolworks.com

[Gary McDonough]

With respect to cleaning the hull, I've tried many products and Y-10 was the best. It has a consistency similar to jello which you apply to the fiberglass, let dry for a few minutes and then rub it off. It got rid of the brown water stain on my 25D that was there for at least a year. Nothing else I tried worked. It also doesn't smell. After using this product to remove the stains, etc., you can then use any polish to spruce her up.

Good Luck

Gary



garym@taxinvest.com

[Bill]

Ditto Y-10 for cleaning the water line (at least). Last summer 3 of us scrubed snd scrubbed etc.... and never phased the brown. One simple application of Y-10 and the stuff just disolved away.

Bill

With respect to cleaning the hull, I've tried many products and Y-10 was the best. It has a consistency similar to jello which you apply to the fiberglass, let dry for a few minutes and then rub it off. It got rid of the brown water stain on my 25D that was there for at least a year. Nothing else I tried worked. It also doesn't smell. After using this product to remove the stains, etc., you can then use any polish to spruce her up.

Good Luck

Gary

cd25d@clnk.com

[Russell]

Before I added a "clear resin coating" to my hull, I would want to know (a) how to get it off later, if need be, and (2) how to repair nicks and dings. I have heard that only acrylic solvent removes New Glass.

[Carl Jones]

This year I will be purchasing a 1986 CD 26 Sailboat from a relative. I
If you were the buyer, what would you say was a fair asking price?

Also, I would like to clean and polish the white hull section above the boot stripe. Does anyone have any ideas on products and how to's to make this shine?

I've tried a lot of things over the years and this is the procedure that works for me. You need to rent or get hold of one of the low speed buffers that go in a circular motion. (The high speed grinders will burn through your gelcoat) The random orbital types advertised in West and available in car supply stores just won't do. Out here in CA the low speed buffers rent for about $20-25 a day. Lighter is better if you have a choice because you'll be holding it over your head all day. You get one of the wool buffing pads that look like that sheep skin car seat cover stuff. I think the 3M Rubbing Compound is the best even though a little more expensive. I haven't been able to make Mequiars or any of the other brands work. The liquid kind with a spout. You squirt a little on the pad and go to work. Keep moving slowly don't burn a hole by staying in one spot. After you get around go over it again with 3M polishing compound. Finally apply your favorite automobile wax. I use 2000 or Turtle Wax "once a year" wax. Give it a couple of coats of that and it looks like new - guaranteed. If it isn't too bad you might be able to skip the rubbing compound and go straight to the polishing compound, or if not bad at all go right to the car polish. Redo the car polish every year when you haul out and she'll always look new. BTW the portion of the hull between the bootstripe and the gunwhale is called the "topsides". As far as a price goes someone else will have to help you there, but conditon and gear included always is a factor in the price.

Ditto on compounding and waxing. That's what the professionals do here in Texas, and you can do it yourself. No problem burning through the gel coat however, unless you are a real klutz. I use an 8 inch high speed grinder with the above mentioned pad and 3M Heavy Duty Rubbing Compound, no problem. If you keep it waxed, you won't have to do it again. Good Luck.



GreatCells@aol.com