Those Last Two Seacocks

[Peter Baumgartner]

This winter I have been refurbishing a 77 Cape Dory 27 #35 which had been neglected for the last ten years - outdoors & uncovered. All the seacocks were frozen. I have been able to remove from the boat and restore all 4 of the forward ones. They are all made by Wilcox-Crittenden.

However; the seacocks which are attached by hose to the cockpit drains have resisted all my efforts to be freed or removed. And the tabs in the thru hulls have snapped off when I tried to unscrew them with a radiator wrench and a pipe wrench.

I think I have two choices 1) just replace the cockpit drain hose, tie a bung nearby and assume since they would be always open anyway the fact they will not close will not matter, or 2) find someway (unknown) to cut them out of the boat.

What do you think?



pjb@napsys.com

[Bob Miller]

This winter I have been refurbishing a 77 Cape Dory 27 #35 which had been neglected for the last ten years - outdoors & uncovered. All the seacocks were frozen. I have been able to remove from the boat and restore all 4 of the forward ones. They are all made by Wilcox-Crittenden.

However; the seacocks which are attached by hose to the cockpit drains have resisted all my efforts to be freed or removed. And the tabs in the thru hulls have snapped off when I tried to unscrew them with a radiator wrench and a pipe wrench.

I think I have two choices 1) just replace the cockpit drain hose, tie a bung nearby and assume since they would be always open anyway the fact they will not close will not matter, or 2) find someway (unknown) to cut them out of the boat.

What do you think?

I had the same problem with two that were for the head. A lot of WD-40, time, more WD-40, more time, and a small hammer. It took about a month. However, you can use a "smoke wrench" or small propane torch. Tr



millerfam5050@worldnet.att.net

[Giles Morris]

>However; the seacocks which are attached by hose to the cockpit
>drains have resisted all my efforts to be freed or removed.
>And the tabs in the thru hulls have snapped off when I tried
>to unscrew them with a radiator wrench and a pipe wrench.

I had a similar problem (I think) and was able to resolve it fairly easily. Well... to be honest, a helpful guy from the next boat did it for me, but I wouldn't hesitate to do it myself.

The answer to your problem is a Dremel tool and cutoff wheels (my benefactor used the ordinary ones, but I always use the fiberglass reinforced ones). Using this, it is easy to cut off the flanges of the through-hull fitting on the outside of the hull, and remove the seacock from the inside.

First, make cuts around the flange perpendicular to the hull surface (for my 3/4 inch fitting four were appropriate) so that the flange is now a series of "petals" attached to the threaded tube that passes through the hull. The cutoff wheel is no small enough that you can get inside the fitting and cut through the base of each of the petals. And Bob's your uncle! The remains of the through hull can now be pushed into the boat, and your problem is solved. It took about five minutes.

Giles Morris



Giles.Morris@usa.net

[Don McLoughlin]

I read your posting and had a flashback! I bought a 1977 CD27 #8 two years ago and had the same problems with the seacocks, especially the ones for the cockpit scuppers. WD40 will help, as will Super Penetrant which is made by the same folks who make 3-in-1 Oil. With a hammer and extraordinary amount of patience (I'm 6' 5" so camping out in the lazarette was not fun) ours eventually did come free. Take care with the hammer! My frustration got the better of me at one point and I hit the seacock so hard that I damaged some of the threads on the barrel piece. Now getting the holding nuts on and off is a pain. FYI, Spartan Marine sells a lapping compound which helped get the barrels back in shape. Now that they are all free and working, I dismantle and service the seacocks every year without fail. It takes less than an hour to do all six. Good luck!

[scott]

Cut the flange of the through hull off using a 4-1/2" grinder with a metal grinding disc. Be careful not to grind into the hull and try to avoid getting the fitting to hot. Then push through to the inside. Next get rid of the traditional plug seacock and replace with new flanged ball valves (bronze body, stainless ball, Teflon seats). No more leaks, no more corrosion, no more headaches.

This winter I have been refurbishing a 77 Cape Dory 27 #35 which had been neglected for the last ten years - outdoors & uncovered. All the seacocks were frozen. I have been able to remove from the boat and restore all 4 of the forward ones. They are all made by Wilcox-Crittenden.

However; the seacocks which are attached by hose to the cockpit drains have resisted all my efforts to be freed or removed. And the tabs in the thru hulls have snapped off when I tried to unscrew them with a radiator wrench and a pipe wrench.

I think I have two choices 1) just replace the cockpit drain hose, tie a bung nearby and assume since they would be always open anyway the fact they will not close will not matter, or 2) find someway (unknown) to cut them out of the boat.

What do you think?