The wooden coaming lining the port lazarette is leaking. Bloody thing seems to be bedded in polysulfide, with no other visible fastenings. Any ideas on how to get it out for rebedding? Matt, didn't you mention that you'd done this?
Thanks, Bill
cochrane@clark.net
CD 36: Lazarette Coaming Leak
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Capt. Mike
Re: CD 36: Lazarette Coaming Leak
The fastenings that secure the teak coaming for most CD lazarettes are accessible from inside the lazarette. Removing these fastenings are a contorsionist dream. For the rest of us, twelve visits to the chiropactor may just about get one pain free. Polysulfide is used to allow its removeability and repair. Many happy repairs! Capt MikeBill Cochrane wrote: The wooden coaming lining the port lazarette is leaking. Bloody thing seems to be bedded in polysulfide, with no other visible fastenings. Any ideas on how to get it out for rebedding? Matt, didn't you mention that you'd done this?
Thanks, Bill
mattngly@concentric.net
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Matt Cawthorne
Re: CD 36: Lazarette Coaming Leak
Bill,
I have rebedded both of mine. The port coaming has 3 or 4 screws holding it in from the back side. They may be most accessible by crawling through the engine compartment and getting to them from inside the locker, but if my memory is correct I did them from the top. After that you can carefully pry up the wood if the old bedding is breaking down.
The starboard side requires the removal of 2 or 3 bungs at the foreward edge in addition to the removal of the screws from the back side. The starboard locker is large enough to crawl into to get to the screws from the back side if you can get through the opening. That last part seems to get tougher each year.
Use masking tape when you re-seal things. It helps do a much nicer job. If using polysulfide use multiple layers of masking tape. Wipe up and pull the first layer of tape and then clean yourself up and throw away all contaminated materials and take the trash bag off of the boat. Put on new gloves and start with clean materials and a new trash bag and wipe it down again and then pull the next layer of tape. Sounds like a lot of trouble, but it ends up being worth it.
Matt
mcawthorne@bellatlantic.net
I have rebedded both of mine. The port coaming has 3 or 4 screws holding it in from the back side. They may be most accessible by crawling through the engine compartment and getting to them from inside the locker, but if my memory is correct I did them from the top. After that you can carefully pry up the wood if the old bedding is breaking down.
The starboard side requires the removal of 2 or 3 bungs at the foreward edge in addition to the removal of the screws from the back side. The starboard locker is large enough to crawl into to get to the screws from the back side if you can get through the opening. That last part seems to get tougher each year.
Use masking tape when you re-seal things. It helps do a much nicer job. If using polysulfide use multiple layers of masking tape. Wipe up and pull the first layer of tape and then clean yourself up and throw away all contaminated materials and take the trash bag off of the boat. Put on new gloves and start with clean materials and a new trash bag and wipe it down again and then pull the next layer of tape. Sounds like a lot of trouble, but it ends up being worth it.
Matt
Bill Cochrane wrote: The wooden coaming lining the port lazarette is leaking. Bloody thing seems to be bedded in polysulfide, with no other visible fastenings. Any ideas on how to get it out for rebedding? Matt, didn't you mention that you'd done this?
Thanks, Bill
mcawthorne@bellatlantic.net