CD 33 - removal of mainsheet traveler track

[lavida]

Has anyone had any experience in replacing the traveler track on their 33?

The old Schafer cars and blocks have seen their day and I want to replace them with new Harken mainsheet gear.

However the access to the underside of the track, to disassemble it seems impossible. Any hints, suggestions, etc.?

Toughts would be most appreciated.

thanks in advance,
Mike
LaVida
CD33



lavida@seascan.com

[Bill Collins]

Remove one (port or starboard) of the bases that is secured to the cabin top. (When you assemble the new traveler to the cabin top, you will need to re-bed the base.) This now allows you to remove the cross member and the existing traveler track assembly from the vessel. The bolts attaching the traveler track to the cross member are either threaded into the cross member or have nuts in the cross member. I took the entire assembly to a small machine shop and had them cut the traveler length wise in two with a metal cutting band saw, thereby exposing the bolts so that they could be removed with pliers, Vice-Grips, etc. This obviously destroys the old traveler track.



bill.collins@delphi.com

[Rich Abato]

Is the track mounted on the bridge deck or is it mounted on a curved bar on two piers on the coach roof above the companionway hatch like the 36?

If it's like the 36 take a look at my posting from a few months ago and the followups.

There are some postings also about bridge deck instalations, just put "traveler" in the search field.




My CD36 Traveler Info
richNOSPAM4ME@sailmahalo.com

[lavida]

unfortunately its mounted on the bridge deck, not on the coach roof.

thanks,
mike

Is the track mounted on the bridge deck or is it mounted on a curved bar on two piers on the coach roof above the companionway hatch like the 36?

If it's like the 36 take a look at my posting from a few months ago and the followups.

There are some postings also about bridge deck instalations, just put "traveler" in the search field.

[mike]

thanks, re: the above post my traveler is bolted to the bridge deck and unaccessable from below to remove the screws.

thanks,
mike

Remove one (port or starboard) of the bases that is secured to the cabin top. (When you assemble the new traveler to the cabin top, you will need to re-bed the base.) This now allows you to remove the cross member and the existing traveler track assembly from the vessel. The bolts attaching the traveler track to the cross member are either threaded into the cross member or have nuts in the cross member. I took the entire assembly to a small machine shop and had them cut the traveler length wise in two with a metal cutting band saw, thereby exposing the bolts so that they could be removed with pliers, Vice-Grips, etc. This obviously destroys the old traveler track.

[Dick]

if youa re going to move it to the coach roof your could just leave the track in place..remove the hardware.

That's a tough/big job either way u slice it.

[Tom Keevil]

Hi Mike,

This is easier than you might think (a rarity, I know). On Rover, hull #66, there is a steel bar glassed into the bridge deck with threaded holes for the bolts. There are no nuts on the bottom, so access is not required. On ours, most of the bolts screwed out with no problem, a couple required a wrench on the screwdriver, and one sob eventually needed an impact wrench, but it did come out. We bought new bolts, bedded it well and screwed it back in.

We were inspired to do this by a series of events that you may find educational. It started with neglecting to properly install one of the stops. A jibe then carried away the plastic end piece, and the traveller car moved to the end of the boom, whereupon one of the wheels plopped off into the sea. We assumed that removing the track would be a reallly difficult job, so bought a replacment car from Rig-Rite. The car did not fit properly, and had to be returned for repair. We also decided to add line controls in place of the stops, and ordered two track-mounted control ends from Rig-Rite. Again, one fit properly, and one didn't. The Rig-Rite folks were pleasant and helpful, but the poor quality control was pretty annoying.

As it turned out, the control ends wouldn't work because the top of the track is level with the bridge deck, leaving insufficient room for the block mounting tabs. The solution to this was to remove the track, and make a shim to raise it 1/4" so the control ends would fit. At this point it was obvious that we should have bought a Harken system in the first place, but we had too much money in it already.

The system works ok, but the line controls are awkwardly placed at the ends of the track, level with the bridge deck. You have to be in just the right place to get a good angle to pull, and the cockpit cushions get in the way. Mounting them farther outboard and higher would be nice, though it's not obvious how to accomplish that. Those scuppers get in the way of many ideas.

If we were to do it again, we would certainly do it differently, but it is also true that the system is a huge improvement over the old stops. In the past we only adjusted the stops when it was blowing hard and we had to depower the main a lot. Now we fool around with it all the time, and it makes a big difference in our sailing.

Tom Keevil
Charleston, OR

Has anyone had any experience in replacing the traveler track on their 33?

The old Schafer cars and blocks have seen their day and I want to replace them with new Harken mainsheet gear.

However the access to the underside of the track, to disassemble it seems impossible. Any hints, suggestions, etc.?

Toughts would be most appreciated.

thanks in advance,
Mike
LaVida
CD33

jeanandtom@hatsharpening.com

[mike]

nm

[Paul]

Don't overlook Garhauer as a possible alternative for your traveler. They make very nice equipment and are very helpful in refitting older boats. Available via web site and most major boat shows. Custom work for much less than retail from other manufacturers.

I replaced a very flimsy Kenyon traveler with Garhauer this spring on my CD Intrepid 28. World of difference in use and looks great.

Paul
"Attitude"
Tampa Bay



einselen(nospam)@aol.com

[Frenchy]

I recently replaced the original Nicro-Fico unit with a Schaefer and thought I'd post a few pictures.
(Apologies for posting to an old thread, but part of the inspiration was Tom Keevil's remarks that
this was a relatively easy job.) It was.
On my boat (hull no. 85) the track bolts are threaded into an aluminum bar encapsulated
into the bridge deck. The aluminum is easy to drill and tap. Removing the old bolts wasn't
difficult either - the important thing is to clean out the screw slots well and make sure the
impact driver's bit fits snugly and is as wide as possible. All the screws came out easily but one.
I was a bit cavalier (getting overconfident) with that one and didn't clean out the slot well.
After chewing up the head a bit, I dremeled the slot deeper with a cutoff wheel and it finally
came out.
Drilling and tapping for the new 4" Schaefer spacing was a matter of spotting the
holes with a 1/4" drill, then removing the track and drilling through with a 13/64" bit and
tapping 1/4"-20. A homemade aluminum guide block kept the drill and tap
straight.
Possibly I could have avoided all that by ordering a custom track with 3 and 7/8"
spacing (the original Nicro Fico spec). The thing that worried me was
the width of the traveller car and end controls on some of the other systems. The
"gully" on the CD 33 bridgedeck is not that wide. I didn't call Schaefer, but assumed
they don't offer custom hole spacing.
The main driver was worry over wear at the mainsheet fiddle block anchor point.
I'd guess that at least half the original strength was gone.
I imagined the fiddle block flying off the traveler in an unplanned jibe.
The new Schaefer fiddle block anchor point has a shaft that allows the block to pivot
athwartships (where most of the movement is) and then has the two mating "eyes" to let
it move fore and aft. This spreads the load better and should prove to be more durable.
I won't use the new system until next year, but so far I love it. It's over-built for a CD-33.
If anyone can use my old Nicro-Fico end controls, I will donate. Those controls
were cross-bolted to the track, meaning you'll have to either remove the track to install
or drill and countersink clearance holes in the controls and then tap the track to accept.
The gully is too narrow to install the cross-bolts with the track insitu. -Jean

[Bob Ohler]

Schaeffer will rebuild your existing blocks for a fraction of the cost of new. Is this an option for you or are you committed to replacing with new?

[Frenchy]

No, but thanks for the information, Bob. I didn't know that. Besides the fiddle block, though, the
padeye that's part of the car was also worn, about as much as the loop on the fiddle block. I
would have had to get a machine shop to fabricate a new one. In the picture it looks a little weird
because of the angle, but it's worn just like the fiddle block part.

[mgphl52]

What you pictured is exactly what had happened to KAYLA's traveler car & fiddle block. I contacted Schaefer and sent a picture showing the wear. They explained the item was "no longer available" (no surprise after 25+ years!) but would assemble a replacement. They sent me a far stronger car & fiddle unit for about half the retail cost of just the fiddle block!

Great customer service!