We are about to slip Dayspring ( CD 30 # 107 ) to free up the seacocks
which are mostly frozen in the open position. It seems that by loosening
off the retaining nuts on the end of the shaft, the whole valve assembly
should be able to be withdrawn and lubricated with a bronze/ sea water
compatible grease, but on Dayspring the ends of the shafts have been
peened over into a mush to stop the nuts coming off. Has anyone had
this problem ??. If we loosen them up and squeeze some anti corrosive
lubricant into the valve, do we stand a chance of getting them to swing
again ??
Appreciate any advice, either to the board or by email.
106452.2173@compuserve.com
Spartan Seacocks
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Captain Mike
Re: Spartan Seacocks
Heat rapidly applied to the seacock housing should expand the casting allowing the valve to rotate. Use a soldering torch to concentrate the heat on the valve housing. A cool wet rag should be secured around the base to protect the hull and and stop the heat transfer to the glass. Disconnect the rubber hose to the seacock and be careful of overheating. The peened nuts are most probably the previous owners failed attempt to free the seacocks. You most likely will have to remove the seacocks from the hull to successfully free the valve, whatever method is employed. Spartan sells all size seacocks for approximately $100 each. Many happy repairs.
mattngly@concentric.net
Murray Glue Christine Batt wrote: We are about to slip Dayspring ( CD 30 # 107 ) to free up the seacocks
which are mostly frozen in the open position. It seems that by loosening
off the retaining nuts on the end of the shaft, the whole valve assembly
should be able to be withdrawn and lubricated with a bronze/ sea water
compatible grease, but on Dayspring the ends of the shafts have been
peened over into a mush to stop the nuts coming off. Has anyone had
this problem ??. If we loosen them up and squeeze some anti corrosive
lubricant into the valve, do we stand a chance of getting them to swing
again ??
Appreciate any advice, either to the board or by email.
mattngly@concentric.net
-
D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Spartan Seacocks
Murray,
Sounds like someone did a real job on your seacocks. The shafts should not be mushroomed! The bronze is relatively soft, if you can work the nut off, the nut might reshape the threads. Another thought, maybe you can buy just the valve barrel from Spartan, instead of replacing the entire through hull. Another thought, if and when you do get them apart, try using bicycle bearing greese to re-lub the valves. It is a waterproof grease, and seems to work just fine on Hanalei's seacocks. And, it is much cheaper than "Seacock" grease! Another thought, if you can't work the nut off, you might try using a Dremel Mototool to cut off the mushroomed part of the shaft, only the part that extends past the nuts, and only the mushroomed part. After all, the nuts only have to have enough threads to get a good grip. Oh, and another thought, if you look at the body of the valve, there are two small screws in the side of the valve body. I understand they are drain ports, but you might be able to remove one and install a zerk fitting(grease fitting) in the hole that would allow you to use a grease gun to force grease into the barrel. I don't know if this will work or not, if it were that easy, no one would take a valve apart again.
If I remember right, you are in Australia. How's the weather down there? We're just now getting ready to take Hanalei off the hard in Connecticut for the next season. Hope this was of some help....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
Sounds like someone did a real job on your seacocks. The shafts should not be mushroomed! The bronze is relatively soft, if you can work the nut off, the nut might reshape the threads. Another thought, maybe you can buy just the valve barrel from Spartan, instead of replacing the entire through hull. Another thought, if and when you do get them apart, try using bicycle bearing greese to re-lub the valves. It is a waterproof grease, and seems to work just fine on Hanalei's seacocks. And, it is much cheaper than "Seacock" grease! Another thought, if you can't work the nut off, you might try using a Dremel Mototool to cut off the mushroomed part of the shaft, only the part that extends past the nuts, and only the mushroomed part. After all, the nuts only have to have enough threads to get a good grip. Oh, and another thought, if you look at the body of the valve, there are two small screws in the side of the valve body. I understand they are drain ports, but you might be able to remove one and install a zerk fitting(grease fitting) in the hole that would allow you to use a grease gun to force grease into the barrel. I don't know if this will work or not, if it were that easy, no one would take a valve apart again.
If I remember right, you are in Australia. How's the weather down there? We're just now getting ready to take Hanalei off the hard in Connecticut for the next season. Hope this was of some help....
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30
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Lyn Heiges
Re: Spartan Seacocks
Dear Murray and Christine,
First of all, I hope your terminology of "slip" means "hauling" DAYSPRING before working on the seacocks!!
I agree with Dave Stump on the peening of the ends of the seacock barrels. Before you do anything I believe it is worth a call or e-mail to Spartan on the subject for reliable information.
My thoughts are that you might be able to run a die over the peened end of the barrel to restore the threads before tearing up the nuts trying to accomplish the same thing.
Once you get the nuts loosened a bit, before you remove the nut completely, use a small hammer on the side of the nut to try to coax the barrel out while trying to twist the handle. DON'T use a lot of force or you will break off the attachment point for the handle on the other end of the barrel! You also can saturate with CorrosionX, Liquid Wrench or WD-40 down through the seacock and the two ends of the barrel, go have a snack or two (not too much alcohol, though) and come back and try some more. Be gentle, but persevere!
Good Luck!
Lyn Heiges
CD28 MOON CHILD
CD27 GUILLEMOT
Although the Spartan seacocks are cast and machined to a specific taper, each one is its own device. They make "lapping" materials to assure the complete and proper fit of the mating pieces. There may be considerable work, if possible at all, in fitting a new (current) barrel into a warn and possibly distorted (from the peening, etc.) female portion of the (old) seacock.
If you follow Captain Mike's suggestion on heating, be careful heating the bronze as you can cause it to crystalize and become brittle and unsafe under strain with a propane or high-heat torch. I would seriously look at removing the seacocks totally from the hull before attempting to heat them, too.
Seacocks generally are used in saltwater situations and I would recommend that you use the best waterproof grease for the marine environment. Bike grease may be OK, but most bikes get rainwater, garden hoses and not the sea on them, so who knows? Contact the grease manfacturer, if in doubt!
lheiges@compuserve.com
First of all, I hope your terminology of "slip" means "hauling" DAYSPRING before working on the seacocks!!
I agree with Dave Stump on the peening of the ends of the seacock barrels. Before you do anything I believe it is worth a call or e-mail to Spartan on the subject for reliable information.
My thoughts are that you might be able to run a die over the peened end of the barrel to restore the threads before tearing up the nuts trying to accomplish the same thing.
Once you get the nuts loosened a bit, before you remove the nut completely, use a small hammer on the side of the nut to try to coax the barrel out while trying to twist the handle. DON'T use a lot of force or you will break off the attachment point for the handle on the other end of the barrel! You also can saturate with CorrosionX, Liquid Wrench or WD-40 down through the seacock and the two ends of the barrel, go have a snack or two (not too much alcohol, though) and come back and try some more. Be gentle, but persevere!
Good Luck!
Lyn Heiges
CD28 MOON CHILD
CD27 GUILLEMOT
Although the Spartan seacocks are cast and machined to a specific taper, each one is its own device. They make "lapping" materials to assure the complete and proper fit of the mating pieces. There may be considerable work, if possible at all, in fitting a new (current) barrel into a warn and possibly distorted (from the peening, etc.) female portion of the (old) seacock.
If you follow Captain Mike's suggestion on heating, be careful heating the bronze as you can cause it to crystalize and become brittle and unsafe under strain with a propane or high-heat torch. I would seriously look at removing the seacocks totally from the hull before attempting to heat them, too.
Seacocks generally are used in saltwater situations and I would recommend that you use the best waterproof grease for the marine environment. Bike grease may be OK, but most bikes get rainwater, garden hoses and not the sea on them, so who knows? Contact the grease manfacturer, if in doubt!
Murray Glue Christine Batt wrote: We are about to slip Dayspring ( CD 30 # 107 ) to free up the seacocks
which are mostly frozen in the open position. It seems that by loosening
off the retaining nuts on the end of the shaft, the whole valve assembly
should be able to be withdrawn and lubricated with a bronze/ sea water
compatible grease, but on Dayspring the ends of the shafts have been
peened over into a mush to stop the nuts coming off. Has anyone had
this problem ??. If we loosen them up and squeeze some anti corrosive
lubricant into the valve, do we stand a chance of getting them to swing
again ??
Appreciate any advice, either to the board or by email.
lheiges@compuserve.com
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john churchill
Re: Spartan Seacocks
mental attitude is everything. once you accept that the things are probably trashed, it will all look better from there. spartan will not sell just the barrel. i like the dremel tool idea to remove the mushroom. i use trailer wheel bearing grease, made for much more demanding conditions than "seacock" grease. lapping compound is available thru most large auto parts stores. overall, the seacocks are pretty tough and only need to do 2 things- twist and not leak. i was able to salvage all 3 seacocks on SKUA after they had been frozen for 4 years. good luck.
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Dave Olson
Re: Spartan Seacocks... Have you tried vinegar and salt?
I haven't... But...If the reason that the seacock is frozen is corrosion, then an internal bath of vinegar and salt perhaps would get it. If the seacock is open... I assume you are out of the water... plug from the outside and pour in this mixture and let it soak. Perhaps loosen the nut.
I am unaware of any possible unintended consequences of doing this...The vinegar and salt thing sure cleans the tarnish off the bronze though.
Once you do get the valve clear, make sure that you spend time with the lapping compound to re-seat the valve.
Good Luck
Dave
OlsonAcre@Compuserve.com
I am unaware of any possible unintended consequences of doing this...The vinegar and salt thing sure cleans the tarnish off the bronze though.
Once you do get the valve clear, make sure that you spend time with the lapping compound to re-seat the valve.
Good Luck
Dave
Murray Glue Christine Batt wrote: We are about to slip Dayspring ( CD 30 # 107 ) to free up the seacocks
which are mostly frozen in the open position. It seems that by loosening
off the retaining nuts on the end of the shaft, the whole valve assembly
should be able to be withdrawn and lubricated with a bronze/ sea water
compatible grease, but on Dayspring the ends of the shafts have been
peened over into a mush to stop the nuts coming off. Has anyone had
this problem ??. If we loosen them up and squeeze some anti corrosive
lubricant into the valve, do we stand a chance of getting them to swing
again ??
Appreciate any advice, either to the board or by email.
OlsonAcre@Compuserve.com