Monday, the temperature hit 80. Today, the high was 58. Suddenly, the race against the ice is on here in Michigan. This is my first time doing my own winterization and storage--can somebody give me a blow-by-blow optimal mothballing for my MD7A, and water systems?
Mucho Appreciato!
Geoff
Brainstorm@Unidial.com
Engine Winterization
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Neil Gordon
Re: Engine Winterization
Water systems are easy... drain the tanks and fill with non-toxic antifreeze (or vodka), then pump through until there's antifreeze in all the lines.
Drain the head holding tank and pump antifreeze through all the lines there, too.
Once on the hard, open all the seacocks and let them drain.
Pump out the bilge and pour antifreeze in... run the pumps until antifreeze has replaced water in all the lines.
As for the motor, I have a mechanic do that. <G> Can't be hard, but it's easier for me to have him change the oil, filters, etc., etc.
Oh... don't forget to top off the fuel tank and treat for all the funny little critters that will grow over the winter.
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
103355.34@compuserve.com
Drain the head holding tank and pump antifreeze through all the lines there, too.
Once on the hard, open all the seacocks and let them drain.
Pump out the bilge and pour antifreeze in... run the pumps until antifreeze has replaced water in all the lines.
As for the motor, I have a mechanic do that. <G> Can't be hard, but it's easier for me to have him change the oil, filters, etc., etc.
Oh... don't forget to top off the fuel tank and treat for all the funny little critters that will grow over the winter.
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
103355.34@compuserve.com
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Ed Haley
Re: Engine Winterization
Neil makes good suggestions for winterizing. If you change your own engine oil, then winterization of the engine is fairly straightforward. After the boat is on the hard, change the oil. To add antifreeze to the engine, remove the cooling water supply hose from the stopcock and take off the clamps from the hose. Insert the free end of the hose into a full gallon of antifreeze. Start the engine and allow the cooling water hose to suck up about half a gallon of antifreeze into the engine or until you see antifreeze coming out the engine exhaust. Shut off the engine. Reconnect the cooling water supply hose while full of antifreeze. Seal off exhaust pipe to prevent birds from entering. Wait for spring.
eghaley@dreamscape.com
eghaley@dreamscape.com
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Mike Everett
Re: Engine Winterization
That's the same procedure I use, except I'd like to mention that for those who sail on salt water, you should draw two or three gallons of fresh water through the cooling system before drawing in the antifreeze.
everett@megalink.net
everett@megalink.net
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Brad Meilink
Re: Engine Winterization
Ed:
Thanks for the lesson on winterizing the engine. When do you follow up with a 'how to' on the "Wait for Spring" part?
Brad
bmeilink@shentel.net
Thanks for the lesson on winterizing the engine. When do you follow up with a 'how to' on the "Wait for Spring" part?
Brad
Ed Haley wrote: Neil makes good suggestions for winterizing. If you change your own engine oil, then winterization of the engine is fairly straightforward. After the boat is on the hard, change the oil. To add antifreeze to the engine, remove the cooling water supply hose from the stopcock and take off the clamps from the hose. Insert the free end of the hose into a full gallon of antifreeze. Start the engine and allow the cooling water hose to suck up about half a gallon of antifreeze into the engine or until you see antifreeze coming out the engine exhaust. Shut off the engine. Reconnect the cooling water supply hose while full of antifreeze. Seal off exhaust pipe to prevent birds from entering. Wait for spring.
bmeilink@shentel.net
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Engine Winterization
Geoff,
First, thanks very much for the cradle measurements and pictures. That's one BIG cradle! Please tell me what I owe you.
Second, I just copied the winterizing section from the CD owner's manual and will try to attach that file to this. There is also a winter task/check list I made up for Hanalei specifically, things I want to do before re-launch in the spring.
CAPE DORY WINTERIZING
BLOCKING THE HULL
Check to make sure that the weight of the hull is resting on the keel. The purpose of the cradle bulkhead or poppets is to balance the boat in an upright position, not bear the weight of the boat.
COCKPIT SCUPPERS
Flush with fresh water and leave seacocks in the open position so that hoses will not fill with water and freeze.
ICE BOX
Clean ice box thoroughly and leave open.
ALCOHOL STOVE
Clean stove thoroughly including burners. Replace wicking under each burner. Release pressure in the fuel tank and leave tank empty.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Remove batteries from boat and store in a warm dry location off a cement or stone floor. Completely charge before storing, top off electrolyte if necessary with de-ionized water. Remove all light bulbs and spray with WD-40, reinstall.
PROPELLER
Examine the propeller for any damage or nicks. If evidence of either is apparent, have the propeller removed and trued.
HEAD
Follow manufacturer’s directions closely. Remove any water to prevent from freezing. The holding tank should be empty when the yacht is laid up for the winter. If possible, flush the tank with a mixture of non-toxic antifreeze and water prior to hauling.
WATER SYSTEM.
Pump tanks as dry as possible, vacuum remainder out of tanks with wet/dry vacuum(my idea - removes any and all gook!), then add non-toxic water system antifreeze. Pump this solution through the entire fresh water and drain system.
ENGINE
Follow the instructions in the engine owner’s manual. Disconnect engine cooling water intake to make sure that no water remains in the line. Remove the drain plug in the muffler and drain.
FUEL TANKS
The best way to store a fuel tank is empty. Partially filled tanks invite condensation. Completely filled tanks leave you with old fuel in the spring and possible gum deposits. Don't forget to clean/replace fuel filter/moisture separator.
PREPARING THE ENGINE FOR WINTER STORAGE OR LAYUPS(from Universal Owner's manual)
Proper preparation of your engine for storage will avoid damage and minimize expense when again placing your engine in service.
LUBRICATION SYSTEM:
1. Before boat is lifted out of the water, run the engine until operating temperature is attained.
2. Stop engine after warm up and remove crankcase oil through the dipstick hole using hand sump pump designed for that purpose. Replace dipstick after oil has been removed.
3. Replace oil filter. Lubricate oil filter gasket with oil prior to installing. Hand tighten the filter in place.
4. Refill crankcase with new oil and replace filler cap.
5. Run engine for about 5 minutes to distribute a protective film of clean oil to act as a rust preventative during storage.
TRANSMISSION:
1. Fill transmission completely with type “A” transmission oil. (You may just add to the existing oil or drain the old oil and completely refill with new transmission oil). Filling completely will require removing some prior to placing back in service.
2. Be sure both drain and filler plugs are tight after draining or adding to the oil in the transmission.
3. Transmission is now ready for storage.
SEA WATER COOLING SYSTEM:
OPTION #1
1. To drain the sea water system, disconnect the hose end at sea water pump that comes from heat exchanger.
Lower free end of hose to a point approximately level with the front engine mount. This will allow the sea water to drain from heat exchanger and hoses.
2. Loosen the 4 or 6 screws on the sea water pump cover plate. Tap the plate lightly to loosen it, this will allow pump to drain.
3. After pump has drained, apply a light coat of lubrication to protect pump and impeller during storage and replace cover.
4. Drain exhaust muffler and system separately.
OPTION #2
1. Disconnect sea water inlet hose at sea cock shut off valve. BE SURE SEA COCK IS CLOSED FIRST.
2. Place the inlet hose into a container of antifreeze, after it has stopped draining, and crank engine over (with decompression lever on), at 10 second intervals, until antifreeze comes out of exhaust outlet, see item 4.
3. You should now have antifreeze in sea water pump, hoses, heat exchanger and exhaust system.
4. If aqua-lift or pot type muffler is used, it is recommended to drain prior to pumping antifreeze through system and afterwards to prevent coolant from backing up into the engine.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
1. Exhaust pipes and muffler should be drained of sea water. Allow the exhaust pipes to dry out. Seal exhaust pipe end to prevent entrance of moisture into the engine through open exhaust valves.
2. See Option #2 under Sea Water Cooling System appropriate for your model.
3. All can type mufflers should be drained after any long periods of cranking. Sea water pump will fill the muffler causing water to backup and enter the engine.
WINTERIZING CHECK LIST
1. Change engine oil and filter.
2. Change/clean diesel fuel filter/moisture separator.
3. Protect sea water cooling system with antifreeze
4. Check open & clear cockpit scuppers
5. Drain fresh water tanks, protect with antifreeze, leave all faucets open.
6. Remove batteries, charge and store
7. Drain fuel tank and LEAVE empty.
8. Remove all cushions from boat and store.
9. Replace stern light wiring
10. Install chain locker drain
11. Install 110 volt distribution system
12. Install water heater.
13. Remove, refinish, reinstall OB motor bracket
14. Remove EVERYTHING from cabinets/lockers on board
15. Sand to bear wood and refinish ALL exterior teak
16. Remove anchor & rode and store at home
17. Clean hull with ON & OFF, compound,wax, buff and re-wax hull, do not buff second coat till spring.
18. Clean decks and cabin top, wax and buff all
19. Sand hull below water line and re-paint in spring.
20. Polish all chrome above decks
21. Install cover frame, make new stringers and cover boat
22. Check wiring on masthead anchor light and deck light.
23. Free all thru hull valves, lap if necessary,grease and reassemble
24. Service head, drain and antifreeze protect
25. Clean stove and oven, replace burner wicks, depressurize alcohol tank .
Hope all this helps Geoff, and that it doesn't overload the site. E-mail me or call here if you need anymore help.
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
Hanalei
stumpdg@gwsmtp.nu.com
First, thanks very much for the cradle measurements and pictures. That's one BIG cradle! Please tell me what I owe you.
Second, I just copied the winterizing section from the CD owner's manual and will try to attach that file to this. There is also a winter task/check list I made up for Hanalei specifically, things I want to do before re-launch in the spring.
CAPE DORY WINTERIZING
BLOCKING THE HULL
Check to make sure that the weight of the hull is resting on the keel. The purpose of the cradle bulkhead or poppets is to balance the boat in an upright position, not bear the weight of the boat.
COCKPIT SCUPPERS
Flush with fresh water and leave seacocks in the open position so that hoses will not fill with water and freeze.
ICE BOX
Clean ice box thoroughly and leave open.
ALCOHOL STOVE
Clean stove thoroughly including burners. Replace wicking under each burner. Release pressure in the fuel tank and leave tank empty.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Remove batteries from boat and store in a warm dry location off a cement or stone floor. Completely charge before storing, top off electrolyte if necessary with de-ionized water. Remove all light bulbs and spray with WD-40, reinstall.
PROPELLER
Examine the propeller for any damage or nicks. If evidence of either is apparent, have the propeller removed and trued.
HEAD
Follow manufacturer’s directions closely. Remove any water to prevent from freezing. The holding tank should be empty when the yacht is laid up for the winter. If possible, flush the tank with a mixture of non-toxic antifreeze and water prior to hauling.
WATER SYSTEM.
Pump tanks as dry as possible, vacuum remainder out of tanks with wet/dry vacuum(my idea - removes any and all gook!), then add non-toxic water system antifreeze. Pump this solution through the entire fresh water and drain system.
ENGINE
Follow the instructions in the engine owner’s manual. Disconnect engine cooling water intake to make sure that no water remains in the line. Remove the drain plug in the muffler and drain.
FUEL TANKS
The best way to store a fuel tank is empty. Partially filled tanks invite condensation. Completely filled tanks leave you with old fuel in the spring and possible gum deposits. Don't forget to clean/replace fuel filter/moisture separator.
PREPARING THE ENGINE FOR WINTER STORAGE OR LAYUPS(from Universal Owner's manual)
Proper preparation of your engine for storage will avoid damage and minimize expense when again placing your engine in service.
LUBRICATION SYSTEM:
1. Before boat is lifted out of the water, run the engine until operating temperature is attained.
2. Stop engine after warm up and remove crankcase oil through the dipstick hole using hand sump pump designed for that purpose. Replace dipstick after oil has been removed.
3. Replace oil filter. Lubricate oil filter gasket with oil prior to installing. Hand tighten the filter in place.
4. Refill crankcase with new oil and replace filler cap.
5. Run engine for about 5 minutes to distribute a protective film of clean oil to act as a rust preventative during storage.
TRANSMISSION:
1. Fill transmission completely with type “A” transmission oil. (You may just add to the existing oil or drain the old oil and completely refill with new transmission oil). Filling completely will require removing some prior to placing back in service.
2. Be sure both drain and filler plugs are tight after draining or adding to the oil in the transmission.
3. Transmission is now ready for storage.
SEA WATER COOLING SYSTEM:
OPTION #1
1. To drain the sea water system, disconnect the hose end at sea water pump that comes from heat exchanger.
Lower free end of hose to a point approximately level with the front engine mount. This will allow the sea water to drain from heat exchanger and hoses.
2. Loosen the 4 or 6 screws on the sea water pump cover plate. Tap the plate lightly to loosen it, this will allow pump to drain.
3. After pump has drained, apply a light coat of lubrication to protect pump and impeller during storage and replace cover.
4. Drain exhaust muffler and system separately.
OPTION #2
1. Disconnect sea water inlet hose at sea cock shut off valve. BE SURE SEA COCK IS CLOSED FIRST.
2. Place the inlet hose into a container of antifreeze, after it has stopped draining, and crank engine over (with decompression lever on), at 10 second intervals, until antifreeze comes out of exhaust outlet, see item 4.
3. You should now have antifreeze in sea water pump, hoses, heat exchanger and exhaust system.
4. If aqua-lift or pot type muffler is used, it is recommended to drain prior to pumping antifreeze through system and afterwards to prevent coolant from backing up into the engine.
EXHAUST SYSTEM
1. Exhaust pipes and muffler should be drained of sea water. Allow the exhaust pipes to dry out. Seal exhaust pipe end to prevent entrance of moisture into the engine through open exhaust valves.
2. See Option #2 under Sea Water Cooling System appropriate for your model.
3. All can type mufflers should be drained after any long periods of cranking. Sea water pump will fill the muffler causing water to backup and enter the engine.
WINTERIZING CHECK LIST
1. Change engine oil and filter.
2. Change/clean diesel fuel filter/moisture separator.
3. Protect sea water cooling system with antifreeze
4. Check open & clear cockpit scuppers
5. Drain fresh water tanks, protect with antifreeze, leave all faucets open.
6. Remove batteries, charge and store
7. Drain fuel tank and LEAVE empty.
8. Remove all cushions from boat and store.
9. Replace stern light wiring
10. Install chain locker drain
11. Install 110 volt distribution system
12. Install water heater.
13. Remove, refinish, reinstall OB motor bracket
14. Remove EVERYTHING from cabinets/lockers on board
15. Sand to bear wood and refinish ALL exterior teak
16. Remove anchor & rode and store at home
17. Clean hull with ON & OFF, compound,wax, buff and re-wax hull, do not buff second coat till spring.
18. Clean decks and cabin top, wax and buff all
19. Sand hull below water line and re-paint in spring.
20. Polish all chrome above decks
21. Install cover frame, make new stringers and cover boat
22. Check wiring on masthead anchor light and deck light.
23. Free all thru hull valves, lap if necessary,grease and reassemble
24. Service head, drain and antifreeze protect
25. Clean stove and oven, replace burner wicks, depressurize alcohol tank .
Hope all this helps Geoff, and that it doesn't overload the site. E-mail me or call here if you need anymore help.
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
Hanalei
stumpdg@gwsmtp.nu.com
-
Neil Gordon
Re: Engine Winterization
>>When do you follow up with a 'how to' on the "Wait for Spring" part?<<
There are a number of things to do while *waiting*. I subscribe to Notice to Mariners year round and get weekly updates. That keeps the chart kit in front of me at least once a week.
Also a good time to work on misc equipment, etc., to splice new dock lines, whip unravelling ends, etc., etc.
I've got a couple of projects planned for the winter, too, like a cockpit table, stbd accomodation ladder, varnishing the cockpit sole grating (a nice touch, thanks to the former owner!), etc.
Plus lots of cruise planning, gps waypoint and route entering, etc., etc.
Anyway... I'm not done with winterizing until mid November or so... then take the cover off mid March. So it's only December, January, February, then two more weeks until Spring!!! (The Feb boat show helps me get in the mood. <G>
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
103355.34@compuserve.com
There are a number of things to do while *waiting*. I subscribe to Notice to Mariners year round and get weekly updates. That keeps the chart kit in front of me at least once a week.
Also a good time to work on misc equipment, etc., to splice new dock lines, whip unravelling ends, etc., etc.
I've got a couple of projects planned for the winter, too, like a cockpit table, stbd accomodation ladder, varnishing the cockpit sole grating (a nice touch, thanks to the former owner!), etc.
Plus lots of cruise planning, gps waypoint and route entering, etc., etc.
Anyway... I'm not done with winterizing until mid November or so... then take the cover off mid March. So it's only December, January, February, then two more weeks until Spring!!! (The Feb boat show helps me get in the mood. <G>
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY
Cape Dory 28 #167
103355.34@compuserve.com