I want to supplement the manual bilge pump on my CD26 with a 12 volt/automatic model. What size (GPH)do I need? thanks
capedorySailor@earthlink.net
Bilge Pump
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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John R.
Re: Bilge Pump
The highest capacity and most dependable you can fit. Either a submersible centrifigual or a high and dry diaphram type. I prefer the diapharm type as a primary pump and a large centrifigual as a back up. You can use a large strainer with a diaphram pump and you can use multiple strainers as well. That's not possible with centrifigual's. I have found that the electronic type automatic switches like the Water Witch are extremely dependable. Stay away from mechanical float switches.
Scott MacCready wrote: I want to supplement the manual bilge pump on my CD26 with a 12 volt/automatic model. What size (GPH)do I need? thanks
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Joe Sankey
Re: Bilge Pump
John, Slow Dance has a rule centrifugal and a Rule float switch. Apparently the float switch doesn't work, and once I trace the wiring to make sure that's not the problem replacement looms. I'm curious as to how you are set up in your 30 with the diaphram pump. I also need some help with brand, size, etc. of a replacement float switch if you have recommendations. Finally, I've never been all that comfortable with mounting directly to the bilge. It seems to me a bracket attached to the shower pan might work for mounting the float switch.
Ideas?
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance
sankey@gulftel.com
Ideas?
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance
John R. wrote: The highest capacity and most dependable you can fit. Either a submersible centrifigual or a high and dry diaphram type. I prefer the diapharm type as a primary pump and a large centrifigual as a back up. You can use a large strainer with a diaphram pump and you can use multiple strainers as well. That's not possible with centrifigual's. I have found that the electronic type automatic switches like the Water Witch are extremely dependable. Stay away from mechanical float switches.
Scott MacCready wrote: I want to supplement the manual bilge pump on my CD26 with a 12 volt/automatic model. What size (GPH)do I need? thanks
sankey@gulftel.com
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John R.
Re: Bilge Pump
Joe,
Awhile back I had made a post regarding a bilge pump issue where I made outlined the description of the way my 30 is set up. It's really pretty straight forward. I have 5 different pumping methods (some of it currently dismantled as I am doing a refit of the boat). The primary pumping system is comprised of a Jabsco diaphram bilge pump (#36600) and it is mounted on a high and dry shelf outboard to port of the fuel tank on the CD30. It is fed via a ITT Par brass double shield strainer that is fitted to the end of the bilge hose. That intake line also feeds through a Vetus raw water engine strainer basket. That allows the bilge water to be filtered of debris twice before entering the pump. VERY IMPORTANT in my opinion. The larger the strainer areas the better. Also a diaphram pump is capable of passing small debris that would jam a centrifigual. The pump itself is operated by the very dependable Water Witch brand electronic bilge water detection switch which is wired through a auto/manual - on/off selection switch. That on/off main control switch is made by Seadog and incorporates LED mode indicators and a inline circuit breaker (no fuses !) and is backlit by another LED. check that Seadog switch out, it's a bargain at about $20 and is the best basic switch I've ever seen. The power feed to that switch is wired through a circuit breaker on the main DC electrical panel. That's the primary bilge system.
The secondary system is a Rule 2000 centrifigual (may upgrade this to a larger capacity pump) that is mounted in a dry location forward in the bilge area, not in the deep sump. The pump is wired through a direct circuit breaker(on/off switch) which is wired directly to the main battery switch. This pump is the first emergency pump. To improve debris filtration the pump can be mounted inside of a box or chamber that has slits or small holes to create a dual stage filtration method. That makes installation a challenge and more complex because of the outlet hose attachment on a centrifigual pump.
The third stage of the bilge system is the ability to switch over the shower sump drain pump to bilge pumping duty by a Y valve control which has a suction line and strainer that feeds to it from the bilge.
The fourth stage is a valving arrangement on the raw water intake line of the engine intake. This is setup similarly to the shower sump design.
Of course there is also the manual gusher pump in the cockpit and a big bucket!
I will email you a couple pics of the various components used. It may take me awhile to do that though, patience please. Hope this is of help to you.
Awhile back I had made a post regarding a bilge pump issue where I made outlined the description of the way my 30 is set up. It's really pretty straight forward. I have 5 different pumping methods (some of it currently dismantled as I am doing a refit of the boat). The primary pumping system is comprised of a Jabsco diaphram bilge pump (#36600) and it is mounted on a high and dry shelf outboard to port of the fuel tank on the CD30. It is fed via a ITT Par brass double shield strainer that is fitted to the end of the bilge hose. That intake line also feeds through a Vetus raw water engine strainer basket. That allows the bilge water to be filtered of debris twice before entering the pump. VERY IMPORTANT in my opinion. The larger the strainer areas the better. Also a diaphram pump is capable of passing small debris that would jam a centrifigual. The pump itself is operated by the very dependable Water Witch brand electronic bilge water detection switch which is wired through a auto/manual - on/off selection switch. That on/off main control switch is made by Seadog and incorporates LED mode indicators and a inline circuit breaker (no fuses !) and is backlit by another LED. check that Seadog switch out, it's a bargain at about $20 and is the best basic switch I've ever seen. The power feed to that switch is wired through a circuit breaker on the main DC electrical panel. That's the primary bilge system.
The secondary system is a Rule 2000 centrifigual (may upgrade this to a larger capacity pump) that is mounted in a dry location forward in the bilge area, not in the deep sump. The pump is wired through a direct circuit breaker(on/off switch) which is wired directly to the main battery switch. This pump is the first emergency pump. To improve debris filtration the pump can be mounted inside of a box or chamber that has slits or small holes to create a dual stage filtration method. That makes installation a challenge and more complex because of the outlet hose attachment on a centrifigual pump.
The third stage of the bilge system is the ability to switch over the shower sump drain pump to bilge pumping duty by a Y valve control which has a suction line and strainer that feeds to it from the bilge.
The fourth stage is a valving arrangement on the raw water intake line of the engine intake. This is setup similarly to the shower sump design.
Of course there is also the manual gusher pump in the cockpit and a big bucket!
I will email you a couple pics of the various components used. It may take me awhile to do that though, patience please. Hope this is of help to you.
Joe Sankey wrote: John, Slow Dance has a rule centrifugal and a Rule float switch. Apparently the float switch doesn't work, and once I trace the wiring to make sure that's not the problem replacement looms. I'm curious as to how you are set up in your 30 with the diaphram pump. I also need some help with brand, size, etc. of a replacement float switch if you have recommendations. Finally, I've never been all that comfortable with mounting directly to the bilge. It seems to me a bracket attached to the shower pan might work for mounting the float switch.
Ideas?
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow DanceJohn R. wrote: The highest capacity and most dependable you can fit. Either a submersible centrifigual or a high and dry diaphram type. I prefer the diapharm type as a primary pump and a large centrifigual as a back up. You can use a large strainer with a diaphram pump and you can use multiple strainers as well. That's not possible with centrifigual's. I have found that the electronic type automatic switches like the Water Witch are extremely dependable. Stay away from mechanical float switches.
Scott MacCready wrote: I want to supplement the manual bilge pump on my CD26 with a 12 volt/automatic model. What size (GPH)do I need? thanks