New Hatch Boards

[Lou Ostendorff]

Hello to All;
I am contemplating making up new hatchboards for Karma and wanted to incorporate some suggestions from this BBoard, such as barrel bolts to fix while at sea, a better notch arrangement between boards to keep water out, and a new screen...was thinking about making the pieces out of regular 3/4" plywood, then read something about 'marine plywood'...have never used it before...does anyone know about it, and would this make good hatchboard material, instead of something exotic and expensive like Teak? TIA
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D Karma
Hailing Port "Oriental, NC" ('cause I like the name)



louosten@ipass.net

[Bill Parker]

Hello to All;
I am contemplating making up new hatchboards for Karma and wanted to incorporate some suggestions from this BBoard, such as barrel bolts to fix while at sea, a better notch arrangement between boards to keep water out, and a new screen...was thinking about making the pieces out of regular 3/4" plywood, then read something about 'marine plywood'...have never used it before...does anyone know about it, and would this make good hatchboard material, instead of something exotic and expensive like Teak? TIA
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D Karma
Hailing Port "Oriental, NC" ('cause I like the name)

Lou
Before you do anything check out the factory store at American Plywood in beaufort, They havwe teak ply at really cheap prices,wonderfull grain and cut any size you want.
Bill



willing@gibralter.net

[mike]

Lou,

I replaced LaVida's hatch boards with boards made up of plexiglas.

Went to a plastics firm that specialized in machining plastics. They machined the boards (3)to my specifications, which included having a small opening port put into the middle board. (This raised the price of the boards). I had the boards made the thickness of the board slot, so they are a little heavy, but I was looking for extreme wave proof strength because we sail LaVida offshore quite a bit.

The opening hatch facilitates talking to crew below and passing items through without having to open the hatch in heavy weather.

The machined mating surfaces of the boards has kept all water out, unless you aim a pressurized hose directly at the boards, then only a small amount trickles through. Far less than the old wooden boards.

They have now been in use for over two years and over 10,000nm. Some scratching has occured, but the main benefit it a HUGE amount of light down below. In addition, the ability to monitor crew and windvane on deck from below has proved very valuable.

For the locking mechanism, I copied two closet dowel hangers out of stainless steel, cutting away 120 degrees of one hanger, leaving the other one intact. the intact hanger is attached to the underside of the hatch coaming (where the name plate goes) on the portside, the other is attached to the back side of the aft hatch lip, on the port side. I then cut and stained a section of dowel just long enough to fit into the hangers when the hatch is closed. (Works just like the rods used to hold sliding patio doors closed) The butt end of the dowel fits into the full hanger and the other end easily drops into the modified hanger on the hatch lip.

For solo sailing I can easily reach through the opening port and install or remove the dowel. With the dowel in place you'd have to rip the hatch off to gain access. It also works well, when your below to secure yourself in the boat, something I find handy when anchored in strange places.

If you'd like any further info on this project, please contact me off line.

sea u,
mike

Hello to All;

I am contemplating making up new hatchboards for Karma and wanted to incorporate some suggestions from this BBoard, such as barrel bolts to fix while at sea, a better notch arrangement between boards to keep water out, and a new screen...was thinking about making the pieces out of regular 3/4" plywood, then read something about 'marine plywood'...have never used it before...does anyone know about it, and would this make good hatchboard material, instead of something exotic and expensive like Teak? TIA
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D Karma
Hailing Port "Oriental, NC" ('cause I like the name)

lavida@seascan.com

[Hobby Marine]

Lou:

If you want some help come by my shop in Pollocksville (just outside of New Bern) and I will be glad to assist you. We do hatch boards in teak as well as plastic. Screens and ports are easy for us to do. We can make teak frame for a screen at very reasonable prices.

Glen



glen@hobbymarine.com

[Boyd]

Hi Lou..

The one thing I would not use is plywood... had to replace the plywood boards on another boat... water got to them and they came apart. The only difference between marine plywood and regular exterior is marine has no voids in the cores. Same glue and a lot more expensive. Use solid wood or plastic if you want them to last. Teak is traditional but many other woods will work. You could use white oak, ash, or maple. Soft woods such as fir and pine are out of the question...tend to rot easily. Teak was adopted for boats because it was the cheapest rot resistant wood available at the time. It holds up well without any treatmemt. I made all new boards for my previous boat from teak and it cost me about $100.00.. and was worth it to me. I made a Z lap at the bottom of each board to keep water out. Worked well... would not leak with a hose pointed at it.

Boyd
s/v Tern
Cd 30 Mk II
Fort Lauderdale, Fla.

Hello to All;
I am contemplating making up new hatchboards for Karma and wanted to incorporate some suggestions from this BBoard, such as barrel bolts to fix while at sea, a better notch arrangement between boards to keep water out, and a new screen...was thinking about making the pieces out of regular 3/4" plywood, then read something about 'marine plywood'...have never used it before...does anyone know about it, and would this make good hatchboard material, instead of something exotic and expensive like Teak? TIA
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D Karma
Hailing Port "Oriental, NC" ('cause I like the name)

Boyd@wbta.cc

[Marc]

Hi Lou,
I think you will regret not to use teak...because your CD25D was originaly built with teak. I believe it's important to see a good looking CD with a good looking hatch. When the time will come to sell your boat you will regain your investment. Do'nt downgrade your CD for a few save $$.

Marc

Hello to All;
I am contemplating making up new hatchboards for Karma and wanted to incorporate some suggestions from this BBoard, such as barrel bolts to fix while at sea, a better notch arrangement between boards to keep water out, and a new screen...was thinking about making the pieces out of regular 3/4" plywood, then read something about 'marine plywood'...have never used it before...does anyone know about it, and would this make good hatchboard material, instead of something exotic and expensive like Teak? TIA
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D Karma
Hailing Port "Oriental, NC" ('cause I like the name)

adrenaline@vif.com

[John Nuttall]

???????????????

[Ken Coit]

John,


Maybe this is what was meant:

Atlantic Veneer Corporation - Plywood Division
Beaufort, NC 28516
252-728-2440

I haven't been able to find a street address, which probably means the company store isn't open any longer. Street Atlas 2003 lists a Safrits Building Supply out past Lewiston Road on Lennoxville Rd. (Rte 1310). They would certainly know if the veneer co. is still doing retail business. <aybe they are in the American Veneer space.

Safrits Building Supply
1308 Lennoxville Road
Beaufort, NC 28516
252-728-3843
link to map below

Keep on sailing,

Ken Coit, ND7N
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC

???????????????

Safrits Building Supply
parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com

[Bill Parker]

John,


Maybe this is what was meant:

Atlantic Veneer Corporation - Plywood Division
Beaufort, NC 28516
252-728-2440

I haven't been able to find a street address, which probably means the company store isn't open any longer. Street Atlas 2003 lists a Safrits Building Supply out past Lewiston Road on Lennoxville Rd. (Rte 1310). They would certainly know if the veneer co. is still doing retail business. <aybe they are in the American Veneer space.

Safrits Building Supply
1308 Lennoxville Road
Beaufort, NC 28516
252-728-3843
link to map below

Keep on sailing,

Ken Coit, ND7N
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC


Ken

You're right it is Atlantic Veneer and I bought some plywood there a couple months ago. It's been there for years but I don't know the street address. I bought 2x4x1/4 for $15.00. Worth looking for.

???????????????

willing@gibralter.net

[JimL]

My old boards were still solid, but badly shrunk. I started by cutting off the bottom edge of the lower board to get a secure side fit (makes it "wider"). Then I cut the bottom of the next board to make it fit, doing the same to the next-to-top board.

When I cut the bottom of the top board to make it fit full width, I had about a 2 1/2" gap at the top. I cut the top flat and square (unlike the angles between the bottom of that board (and other joints). I cut a new piece of teak to fit the top, then drilled, doweled, epoxy glued and clamped into place (lay it on a flat bench, on wax paper, while curing...excess glue will sand off). The new 3/4" thick top piece is flush on the inside, but thicker (overflush) on the outside....works fine.

I filled the old hasp hole with Bondo (mix a little extra hardener to make it darker), and made a new top slot for the tang.

The old boards refinished just fine and look great. I attached small stainless eyeloops on the back of the lower two boards (one at each end) then added a small cleat on each side of the cabinet ends. These allow me to tie the lower boards in place for rough weather confidence. For suitable sealing, keep an old towel or two handy....drop them in the bottom/sides and tie down the boards. They'll do what you need!

Hope this saves you some money and time. Regards, JimL



leinfam@earthlink.net

[Mike L]

Do you do replacements for the standard $20.00 Spartan screens that have the cheap plastic frames ?

Is anyone familiar with a product called Seaboard. I know it is used in a variety of marine applications but not sure how tough it is. Is it like a solid surface product or is it a softer plastic substance?
Mike L.



mikit@pioneer-net.com

[Ken Coit]

I doubt they have moved, so they must be on Lennoxville Rd., maybe no further out as the fish factory and a block off the water. I'd guess their property backs up to the railroad.

Keep on sailing,

Ken

John,


Maybe this is what was meant:

Atlantic Veneer Corporation - Plywood Division
Beaufort, NC 28516
252-728-2440

I haven't been able to find a street address, which probably means the company store isn't open any longer. Street Atlas 2003 lists a Safrits Building Supply out past Lewiston Road on Lennoxville Rd. (Rte 1310). They would certainly know if the veneer co. is still doing retail business. <aybe they are in the American Veneer space.

Safrits Building Supply
1308 Lennoxville Road
Beaufort, NC 28516
252-728-3843
link to map below

Keep on sailing,

Ken Coit, ND7N
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC

Ken

You're right it is Atlantic Veneer and I bought some plywood there a couple months ago. It's been there for years but I don't know the street address. I bought 2x4x1/4 for $15.00. Worth looking for.

???????????????

parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com

[Richard Hill]

Hello to All;
I am contemplating making up new hatchboards for Karma and wanted to incorporate some suggestions from this BBoard, such as barrel bolts to fix while at sea, a better notch arrangement between boards to keep water out, and a new screen...was thinking about making the pieces out of regular 3/4" plywood, then read something about 'marine plywood'...have never used it before...does anyone know about it, and would this make good hatchboard material, instead of something exotic and expensive like Teak? TIA
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D Karma
Hailing Port "Oriental, NC" ('cause I like the name)

I went through this drill last year with my Bristol 32. A friend of mine made up some new ones using 1 inch Honduras mahogany. I coated them with West System epoxy (207 hardner) then used polyurethane varnish with UV a filter. They're BEAUTIFUL! (if I do say so) If you use solid wood, just be sure to make each board with end pieces that run vertically along the sides so warpage won't occur. I've been the teak plywood route, and you won't be disappointed with solid wood. Mahogany (the real stuff - Honduras) is an excellent boatbuilding wood - they used to make hulls out of it - and it really is pretty varnished.



captrahill@comcast.net