Has anybody out there built and installed a propane locker in a CD 36? I've heard from some who have installed a "store bought" but has anybody built their own and installed it? Thanks.
ewood29289@aol.com
Propane Locker
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Ken Cave
Re: Propane Locker
Sure Marine (out of Seattle-and they are on the internet) has a great hanger for a six pound bottle that mounts on a rear stancion. Easy to remove for winter-easy to remove for refill! Costs about $130.00 but worth it!
Ken Cave
Dragon Tale
CD28#227
Anacortes, WA
bcave@whidbey.net
Ken Cave
Dragon Tale
CD28#227
Anacortes, WA
bcave@whidbey.net
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Tim Smale
Re: Propane Locker
In the stern lazarette, I installed a base using marine plywood, painted it, and fiberglassed it to the boat to fit the space inside of the stern lazarette, making sure that I would still have usable space after the propane locker and tanks were installed. I added closed cell foam inside of the base to ensure a tight fit, yet allow the locker to slide out using a small handle in installed in the front of the locker. I used 3M 5200 on all screws and fittings that went through the locker to avoid leaks. I wanted to ensure that any propane that escaped would be vented overboard and not through any fitting. I sourced the locker and propane bottles to fit the application - the locker, supply hoses, cabin heater, and range and oven all came from Defender, and the bottles were purchased locally at an RV center to fit the tank. The bottles were a special order item - but the RV center easily found them to fit the size of the locker. I do not have the locker size anymore or the part number. I would measure your lazerette and go from there. I wanted to have two bottles so I would always have one filled.
The locker is vented underneath the base and goes downward on all points of sail to a thru-hull I installed. I measured tens of times and cut once to ensure that everything was as I wanted it to be. The boat is over 1" thick in the stern - if you cut a hole make sure you do it right the first time and you'll be amazed at the stout building that CD had in that area. The propane locker is held in place by two bungies normally, and once removed, the locker can then slide forward, and the locker hinges for the lid can then go rigid and hold the locker open to access the tanks, keeping the locker from sliding back into its base. I do not have to slide the tanks forward to turn on the valve - - only to perform a leak test using the gauge, and to switch tanks if I need to go from one to the other. The locker opens just enough to allow my hand in to turn on and off the valves. I have used the same tank for 3 years now and they last a long time - even while cruising for an entire summer I only used one full tank and switch to the other one after 4 months of everyday use.
I also installed the solenoid inside of the propane locker, with the on/off switch mounted inside of the cabin, and also installed a propane sniffer alarm. I had two of them initially installed, one where you see it beneath the companionway stairs, and the other inside of the engine room at a low point just above the bilge, thinking that propane, being heavier than air, would settle in the engine bilge first if the vent failed, however, the alarm kept going off while underway motoring, so I removed it and just have one alarm remaining in the cabin. The alarms are wired to the battery selector switch and are energized when the battery is on. You may decide to wire it the same way as the bilge pump and always keep it energized.
I installed an oven and a Force 10 cabin heater, both shown in pictures I can send you. The job took a while to do, all in winter under tarps in OH, but I'm very pleased with the installation and functionality of the system. I wanted my propane lockers kept out of the elements to reduce wear and windage, and frankly just don't like the look of rusty propane bottles on deck. While a propane installation below decks is more of a safety hazard than one on deck, I am confident that the added security of overboard venting, devices in the range and heater that automatically shut off the gas supply if the propane gas is interrupted during operation, solenoid safety switches, and an alarm, that I have done the best I could to avoid problems. I check the system before every use for leaks by turning the valve on and seeing if the gauge fluctuates at all for 10 minutes before each initial use on a trip, and thereafter every other day while in use. If I ever would detect a leak, I would first verify it by the soapy bubble test on all fittings before firing up the propane system and fix the leak before use.
Good luck with your installation, and please let me know if you have any more questions. Happy sails!
Tim Smale
s/v Freestyle
tim@iga.org
The locker is vented underneath the base and goes downward on all points of sail to a thru-hull I installed. I measured tens of times and cut once to ensure that everything was as I wanted it to be. The boat is over 1" thick in the stern - if you cut a hole make sure you do it right the first time and you'll be amazed at the stout building that CD had in that area. The propane locker is held in place by two bungies normally, and once removed, the locker can then slide forward, and the locker hinges for the lid can then go rigid and hold the locker open to access the tanks, keeping the locker from sliding back into its base. I do not have to slide the tanks forward to turn on the valve - - only to perform a leak test using the gauge, and to switch tanks if I need to go from one to the other. The locker opens just enough to allow my hand in to turn on and off the valves. I have used the same tank for 3 years now and they last a long time - even while cruising for an entire summer I only used one full tank and switch to the other one after 4 months of everyday use.
I also installed the solenoid inside of the propane locker, with the on/off switch mounted inside of the cabin, and also installed a propane sniffer alarm. I had two of them initially installed, one where you see it beneath the companionway stairs, and the other inside of the engine room at a low point just above the bilge, thinking that propane, being heavier than air, would settle in the engine bilge first if the vent failed, however, the alarm kept going off while underway motoring, so I removed it and just have one alarm remaining in the cabin. The alarms are wired to the battery selector switch and are energized when the battery is on. You may decide to wire it the same way as the bilge pump and always keep it energized.
I installed an oven and a Force 10 cabin heater, both shown in pictures I can send you. The job took a while to do, all in winter under tarps in OH, but I'm very pleased with the installation and functionality of the system. I wanted my propane lockers kept out of the elements to reduce wear and windage, and frankly just don't like the look of rusty propane bottles on deck. While a propane installation below decks is more of a safety hazard than one on deck, I am confident that the added security of overboard venting, devices in the range and heater that automatically shut off the gas supply if the propane gas is interrupted during operation, solenoid safety switches, and an alarm, that I have done the best I could to avoid problems. I check the system before every use for leaks by turning the valve on and seeing if the gauge fluctuates at all for 10 minutes before each initial use on a trip, and thereafter every other day while in use. If I ever would detect a leak, I would first verify it by the soapy bubble test on all fittings before firing up the propane system and fix the leak before use.
Good luck with your installation, and please let me know if you have any more questions. Happy sails!
Tim Smale
s/v Freestyle
tim@iga.org