Rigging an asymmetrical spinnaker on CD30?

[Jim Newton]

After 3 years sailing “Alcyone” we've decided to try the Doyle asymmetrical spinnaker that came with her. Unfortunately, I don’t have a clue how to rig it. The sail did come with an ATN sock. Here are my questions:
· Where do I attach the tack line? Out forward of the bow pulpit? If so how and where? Or do I attach a block to the base of the forestay and run the tack line back to the bow cleat? (but then how do I jibe?)
· The clew came with a 12+ foot x 1.5" nylon strap attached, but no sheets. I can’t image what the strap is for. So I’m assuming I need sheets, but how long?
· Where do the sheets run aft to? I have a on both port and starboard a double cheek block that turns the jib sheet forward to the winch. But the angle seems wrong for any anything not comming through a fairlead. It would seem that I need a fairlead or block fore of the cheek block to align the spinnaker sheet for a clean entry.
Any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim Newton
Alcyone CD30



jnewt@hs-e.com

[Ben Thomas]

Jim, I run a asymertrical on my 30 cd. This is how I have rigged it and seems to work without fouling or undo hassle when single handing. Other folks, I'am sure have found different ways to rig their boats, that said, this is what works for me.

The tack is attached to a tack line run aft. a swivel block is attached to my bow sprit via a bail bolted onto each of the stainless anchor leads. next it runs through another block mounted on the bowsprit port side maybe 12" back from forward edge bringing the tack line back fair, then the tack line is run through a series of furling blocks to a secondary Anderson self-tailer on the port side just forward of the stern rails and deck cleat. This has made trimming easier when on a reach or nearly downwind.
The sheets are long, I believe they are around 60' each (120total). They must run the full length of boat, around forward of forestay and half way back again to clew plus extra footage running onto winchs. There is always a ton of line tailed in on either side.
The sheets are run through a spring loaded block (schafer 7series) on track, these blocks are adjusted to be about even with my wheel on each side. sheets then run forward to the 40st andsersons.
When you jibe, the sail and sheets must move forward of the forestay to other side of boat, It now (sail)presents its other side to the wind. The whole thing swivels 270 degrees around the forestay. Its noisy and can be awkward but thrilling when it fills back up.
I have no idea what the 12' plus strap is for.
Best of luck Ben



bt@benthomaslandscapers.com

[Joe Mac Phee]

Jim,

My 1977 CD-30 Ketch also has a bow sprit. The spinnaker tack pennant is led through a swivel block on the forward end of the sprit. I cleat the pennant to the mooring cleat on the foredeck (this is not a good permanent location...I need to find a way to bring it back to the cockpit). Both the halyard and tack pennant must be out in front of everything. The sail is jibed by letting the sheet run out when dead downwind and then hauling on the lazy sheet. Which brings us to the sheets. The lazy sheet must reach from the clew around the outside of the forestay and back to stern quarter, about twice the length of the boat. I run the sheets to a snap shackle swivel block which is currently just attached to my stern cleat (I have a bronze eye strap for the block but have not yet installed it). Since this is a swivel block, it will adjust it's alignment with the sheet. This block is used a a turning block, and is oversized. The control line for my ATN sock is cleated to one of the mooring cleats.

I am not sure why there is a strap on the clew of your sail, my sail does not have one. My sheets are directly tied to the clew cringle. If I had such a strap, I would probably use it on the tack.

Perhaps someone else has used a strap and can enlighten us both.


"I have cut this line three times now and it is still too short!"

Joe Mac Phee
S/V Iolanthe
CD-30/K
Bristol, RI



jvmacphee@aol.com

[Tom Foley]

Check the following UK Sails site for complete instructions on rigging asymetrical spinnakers. It's very helpful. http://www.uksailmakers.com/encyclopedia.html .

Good luck













































































































































































alewifehouse@mainecoast.net

[Mike L.]

My initial guess was the strap is possibly used in some capacity to douse the sail with the sock.The length however is a puzzle as it seems either too short or too long for most applications. Perhaps it was simply used to secure the sail on deck after dousing and removing the sheets.

Mike L.



mikit@pioneer-net.com

[Jim Newton]

OK, I think I’m getting the picture. Two additional questions: 1) My spinnaker halyard exits the mast BELOW the genny, all I’ve read seems to indicate the need for it to come out of the mast above or forward of the genny halyard. What’s the story? 2) What about the usefulness/requirement for either perral beads or something like “The Tacker”?

Thanks for all your help, we'll be flying soon!
Jim Newton
Alcyone CD30



jnewt@hs-e.com

[Ben Thomas]

OK, I think I’m getting the picture. Two additional questions: 1) My spinnaker halyard exits the mast BELOW the genny, all I’ve read seems to indicate the need for it to come out of the mast above or forward of the genny halyard. What’s the story? 2) What about the usefulness/requirement for either perral beads or something like “The Tacker”?

Thanks for all your help, we'll be flying soon!
Jim Newton
Alcyone CD30

Jim, Mastheads seem to small, especially if you start mounting gear up there. I installed a 1/2" aluminum elongated oval plate(5"x14") on my mast head to accomodate everything. the VHF antenna, wind speed/direction roto. anchor light, windex and the halyard block for my asymetrical, which is forward and above the forestay. this keeps the sail from fouling around the forestay on jibes. I don't know what the perral beads are. I've heard of the tacker but know nothing of that as well. Ben



bt@benthomaslandscpaers.com

[Joe Mac Phee]

Jim,

On my 1977 CD-30, there is a stainless steel bail mounted on the forward end of the masthead fitting. I have always assumed that it was put there by Cape Dory, but perhaps some prior owner installed it. This fitting puts the block for the spinnaker halyard both forward and above all of the halyards on the main mast. All of the boats that I have seen with spinnaker halyards have this type of bail at the masthead. It is important that the spinnaker halyard be clear of the rest of the "stuff" at the masthead. It is a big sail and when you want it to come down, it is good if it obeys. On my ketch which has main halyard, jib halyard, mule halyard, mule stay, triadic, main backstay, and main topping lift, in addition to the spinnaker halyard at the masthead, it took me several experiments to dress the spinnaker halyard to keep it clear.

The use of parrel(?sp.) beads or the Tacker on the spinnaker tack may depend on your sail configuration. The literature shows the Tacker used on boats with roller furler headsails. I have a short pennant on my tack which is cleated at the bow. I would like to bring the tack pennant back to the cockpit. When the sail is used directly downwind it seems to perform better if the tack pennant is eased and the sail is allowed to fly out ahead of the boat. On a broad reach, the tack is pulled in close to the bow. The Tacker keeps the tack close to the forestay and is adjustable up and down. I do not own and have never the seen Tacker in operation, so have no experience on its efficacy. I have not seen parrel beads used for this purpose. I have parrel beads on the gaff jaws of my Cape Dory Handy Cat, but that is a totally different application!

Happy downwinding,

Joe Mac Phee
S/V Iolanthe
CD-30/K
Bristol, RI



jvmacphee@aol.com