Cetol Marine vs. Semco Teak Sealer?

[Jim Sullivan]

I have a 1971 CD Typhoon that I have been using Semco Teak Sealer for the past 4 years with good success, however, the teak needs some cleaning, sanding, etc. before treating again with Semco. Generally, I have treated the teak with equal parts of the Semco gold and natural. I've read that Cetol Marine is quite good on teak and stands up rather well. Anyone have any comments or experience with changing from Semco to Cetol Marine.



jsullivan@ids.net

[Kim Richards]

I have a 1971 CD Typhoon that I have been using Semco Teak Sealer for the past 4 years with good success, however, the teak needs some cleaning, sanding, etc. before treating again with Semco. Generally, I have treated the teak with equal parts of the Semco gold and natural. I've read that Cetol Marine is quite good on teak and stands up rather well. Anyone have any comments or experience with changing from Semco to Cetol Marine.

Switched from Semco to Cetol about 5 years ago and have never looked back We found the Semco rubbed off on clothing, when wet, and was covering the grain. The Cetol doesn't hide the grain at all, doesn't rub off, and is very easy to maintain.

[Tony Betz]

Am not familiar with the Semco product. Have found Cetol to be a good cover up for damaged wood, but will leave the teak a darker brown than I care for, and any black in the grain will still show through. If you strip your teak all the way down and still have some gold color, perhaps their clearcoat would work well.
I saw some beautiful light, bright teak - the owner said he use a product called "Armada" that I am unfamiliar with.
The teak on my boat had so much Cetol on it when I bought it that it looked like brown paint. I will have to put a belt sander to it this winter.
I believe I will need a two step product - first a treatment with light pigment, and then a clear top coat. Advice from the forum would be appreciated.
Best regards, Tony Betz Casco Bay, Maine



wildings@ncia.net

[Matt Cawthorne]

Tony,
Yikes! A belt sander? Sounds dangerous! I have used Cetol for about 5 years. Yes, it gets dark if you put lots of coats on. I have found that Cetol comes off very nicely with a scraper, you may need the assistance of a heat gun. Certain types of teak cleaners/bleaches will soften the Cetol to the point where it turns rubbery and comes off, but I have not investigated them to find a repeatable process. Perhaps you are better with a belt sander than I am, but I find them dangerous to wood.
Good luck,
Matt

Am not familiar with the Semco product. Have found Cetol to be a good cover up for damaged wood, but will leave the teak a darker brown than I care for, and any black in the grain will still show through. If you strip your teak all the way down and still have some gold color, perhaps their clearcoat would work well.
I saw some beautiful light, bright teak - the owner said he use a product called "Armada" that I am unfamiliar with.
The teak on my boat had so much Cetol on it when I bought it that it looked like brown paint. I will have to put a belt sander to it this winter.
I believe I will need a two step product - first a treatment with light pigment, and then a clear top coat. Advice from the forum would be appreciated.
Best regards, Tony Betz Casco Bay, Maine

mcawthor@bellatlantic.net