wet core - how to find

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john

wet core - how to find

Post by john »

I'm planning some deck repairs on my Typhoon for this fall, to repair a crack which, I think, resulted from wet coring freezing. My question is - how do I determine where the wet bit ends and, by extension, how do I identify any other areas of leakage? Do I have to just drill a bunch of inspection holes in the deck or is there a less invasive approach?

Thanks.
John



john.hoft-marchnospam@appleton.org
Larry DeMers

Re: wet core - how to find

Post by Larry DeMers »

Try sounding it with a small plastic hammer, or even the rubberized handle on a screwdriver. Moving over the area in question, you will note that there is a dull 'thud' from the waterlogged areas, while the tight and dry areas should return a ring with the strike. To detect this difference, go to a known good spot and sound it lightly, then repeat this in the suspected spot, slightly away from the crack, and off of each end of it. This will give a rough approximation of the damaged core size.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30 Lake Superior

john wrote: I'm planning some deck repairs on my Typhoon for this fall, to repair a crack which, I think, resulted from wet coring freezing. My question is - how do I determine where the wet bit ends and, by extension, how do I identify any other areas of leakage? Do I have to just drill a bunch of inspection holes in the deck or is there a less invasive approach?

Thanks.
John


demers@sgi.com
John

Re: wet core - how to find

Post by John »

Larry DeMers wrote: Try sounding it with a small plastic hammer, or even the rubberized handle on a screwdriver. Moving over the area in question, you will note that there is a dull 'thud' from the waterlogged areas, while the tight and dry areas should return a ring with the strike. To detect this difference, go to a known good spot and sound it lightly, then repeat this in the suspected spot, slightly away from the crack, and off of each end of it. This will give a rough approximation of the damaged core size.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30 Lake Superior

john wrote: I'm planning some deck repairs on my Typhoon for this fall, to repair a crack which, I think, resulted from wet coring freezing. My question is - how do I determine where the wet bit ends and, by extension, how do I identify any other areas of leakage? Do I have to just drill a bunch of inspection holes in the deck or is there a less invasive approach?

Thanks.
John
I had wet core, which sounded great with a hammer. It seems there is no dull thud until the core has become rotten. I drilled test holes & ended up opening up the deck in several areas. If you can put her under a cover & just drill holes to let it dry, it's the easiest fix.
John CD31 #18 Bonnie Blue



redzeplin@yahoo.com
john

Re: wet core - how to find

Post by john »

Thanks for the ideas. I think I'll try the hammer first to avoid drilling holes!
John
John wrote:
Larry DeMers wrote: Try sounding it with a small plastic hammer, or even the rubberized handle on a screwdriver. Moving over the area in question, you will note that there is a dull 'thud' from the waterlogged areas, while the tight and dry areas should return a ring with the strike. To detect this difference, go to a known good spot and sound it lightly, then repeat this in the suspected spot, slightly away from the crack, and off of each end of it. This will give a rough approximation of the damaged core size.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30 Lake Superior

john wrote: I'm planning some deck repairs on my Typhoon for this fall, to repair a crack which, I think, resulted from wet coring freezing. My question is - how do I determine where the wet bit ends and, by extension, how do I identify any other areas of leakage? Do I have to just drill a bunch of inspection holes in the deck or is there a less invasive approach?

Thanks.
John
I had wet core, which sounded great with a hammer. It seems there is no dull thud until the core has become rotten. I drilled test holes & ended up opening up the deck in several areas. If you can put her under a cover & just drill holes to let it dry, it's the easiest fix.
John CD31 #18 Bonnie Blue


john.hoft-marchnospam@appleton.org
Marc

Re: wet core - how to repair

Post by Marc »

Hi,
I never do it by myself, but i just read an article about it. For repairing wet core you can drill a serie of holes, let the core dry and after that fill them with epoxy. Like i said i never do it but i found the idea good if the area to repair is not to big.

Marc
StarLight
A22 (not in water yet...rats!)

John wrote:
Larry DeMers wrote: Try sounding it with a small plastic hammer, or even the rubberized handle on a screwdriver. Moving over the area in question, you will note that there is a dull 'thud' from the waterlogged areas, while the tight and dry areas should return a ring with the strike. To detect this difference, go to a known good spot and sound it lightly, then repeat this in the suspected spot, slightly away from the crack, and off of each end of it. This will give a rough approximation of the damaged core size.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30 Lake Superior

john wrote: I'm planning some deck repairs on my Typhoon for this fall, to repair a crack which, I think, resulted from wet coring freezing. My question is - how do I determine where the wet bit ends and, by extension, how do I identify any other areas of leakage? Do I have to just drill a bunch of inspection holes in the deck or is there a less invasive approach?

Thanks.
John
I had wet core, which sounded great with a hammer. It seems there is no dull thud until the core has become rotten. I drilled test holes & ended up opening up the deck in several areas. If you can put her under a cover & just drill holes to let it dry, it's the easiest fix.
John CD31 #18 Bonnie Blue


adrenaline@vif.com
Glen

Re: wet core - how to find

Post by Glen »

I like to use a large plastic handle screwdriver. There will be two indications of a problem (wet, void or delamination) area. The sound will be more like a THUD then a clean tap. Also, the bounce of the handle will be less in a bad area. Tap lightly and practice will help you. Keep in mind that the actual area that is bad will be larger then the area that sounds bad. I always cut the area out so that I can see what is bad. Also, keep in mind that not all leaks come from the outside in. CONDENSATION is a killer of coreing material as well. Also, you want to tap on areas that you are NOT sitting or standing on. Sometimes body weight will make a differance.

The best of luck to you.

Glen
Hobby Marine.



glen@hobbymarine.com
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