Cutlass bearing replacement, 25D

[Bill Cool]

I am currently in the process of replacing the original cutlass bearing on my 1982 25D. Last night the waxy packing was removed from the stuffing box. After several attempts to pound the prop shaft out of the coupling, I became frustrated with the minimal progress. Tonight I will try placing a socket between the coupling flanges and tightening the four bolts. Is there another means to remove the prop shaft from the coupling without placing tension on the flanges of the coupling? I have read about chipping the epoxy away from the fiberglass propeller shaft to gain access to the set screws and the cutlass bearing. What procedure or tools are used for this task that will not destroy the fiberglass tube? Is there another method to remove the cutlass bearing without having to chip away at the boat? Any assistance that you can lend will be greatly appreciated at this point of the ordeal.



Bcool@peacehealth.org

[Duncan Maio]

Bill:

The method you described for removing the shaft from the flange is what I did a couple of years ago. I used four 4" lengths of threaded rod instead of the actual bolts, both to protect the actual bolts from damage and because the longer rod allowed me to press the flange off in a single step. Be gentle. I've read that some transmissions don't like this procedure at all.

Duncan Maio
s/v Remdey
CD27 #37
Bristol, RI



mail@mysticmarine.net

[Boyd]

I pulled the shaft on Tern last year.. what a job. Placing a socket between the coupling halves is risky... On my transmission the flange has 4 ears not a continous flange. If one of those ears is broken... you are facing a transmission rebuild and lots of $$. If you manage to warp the flange then the alignment of the shaft is impossible. Again lots of $$. I was unable to move mine with the socket and bolt trick. Also tried a automotive pully remover.. no joy either. I ended up cutting the flange off the shaft. According to the boat yard guys this is what it takes in 90% of the cases. I used a small die grinder with cut-off wheels and a sawsall. One B@#$* of a job. The flange hangs up where the set screw or the key. The good news is a new flange is pretty cheap.. $40.00 as I recall. I cheated and used a little emory cloth on the shaft to lessen the interference fit... so next time it may be easier.

Wish I could offer an easier option.

Boyd
s/v Tern
CD30 MkII
Fort Lauderdale, Fla

I am currently in the process of replacing the original cutlass bearing on my 1982 25D. Last night the waxy packing was removed from the stuffing box. After several attempts to pound the prop shaft out of the coupling, I became frustrated with the minimal progress. Tonight I will try placing a socket between the coupling flanges and tightening the four bolts. Is there another means to remove the prop shaft from the coupling without placing tension on the flanges of the coupling? I have read about chipping the epoxy away from the fiberglass propeller shaft to gain access to the set screws and the cutlass bearing. What procedure or tools are used for this task that will not destroy the fiberglass tube? Is there another method to remove the cutlass bearing without having to chip away at the boat? Any assistance that you can lend will be greatly appreciated at this point of the ordeal.

Boyd@wbta.cc

[Jim]

I just replaced the cutlass bearing on my 22D without too much difficulty. I believe that the installation is similar if not identical for the 25D. I removed the two square-headed screws and wire on the coupling flange that secure the shaft and with really gentle tapping on the fore side of the prop was able to slide the shaft aft and out with the prop still attached. The cutlass bearing was removed by making two cuts with a hacksaw blade in order to collapse the bearing. Just before using the hacksaw blade, I chipped away enough of the fairing compound covering the set screws to remove them from the aft portion of the shaft log. I was not able to save the last 1/4" of the shaft log where set screws were located so I used a 2-part epoxy to fair the area after the new bearing was installed. I chilled the bearing overnite in the freezer before installing it. I replaced the shaft with a new bronze shaft and had the propeller balanced. I repacked the packing nut (stuffing box) with teflon packing and recommended lubricant on the workbench--it was alot easier to repack in this way than with the packing nut in place on the new shaft. On the workbench, I used the old shaft as a template to re-pack the packing nut.

I am currently in the process of replacing the original cutlass bearing on my 1982 25D. Last night the waxy packing was removed from the stuffing box. After several attempts to pound the prop shaft out of the coupling, I became frustrated with the minimal progress. Tonight I will try placing a socket between the coupling flanges and tightening the four bolts. Is there another means to remove the prop shaft from the coupling without placing tension on the flanges of the coupling? I have read about chipping the epoxy away from the fiberglass propeller shaft to gain access to the set screws and the cutlass bearing. What procedure or tools are used for this task that will not destroy the fiberglass tube? Is there another method to remove the cutlass bearing without having to chip away at the boat? Any assistance that you can lend will be greatly appreciated at this point of the ordeal.

atea@att.net