HAS ANYONE PLACEd A HATCH OR DECKPLATE IN THE COCKPIT FLOOR TO
INHANCE ACCESS TO THE DRIVE SHAFT / TRANSMISSION IN A CD 30????
MINES A 1984.
IM IN MIDST OF PULLING ENGINE TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION -
NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO ACCESS THE DRIVE SHAFT.
ALSO ANY INFO ON REMOVING MUFFLER I THINK IT NEEDS TO COME OUT TO REMOVE ENGINE?????
THANKS IN ADVANCE BEST REGARDS Don S/V Adagio
ACCESS TO DRIVE SHAFT ON CD 30 1984
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: ACCESS TO DRIVE SHAFT ON CD 30 1984
Don,DON wrote: HAS ANYONE PLACEd A HATCH OR DECKPLATE IN THE COCKPIT FLOOR TO
INHANCE ACCESS TO THE DRIVE SHAFT / TRANSMISSION IN A CD 30????
MINES A 1984.
IM IN MIDST OF PULLING ENGINE TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION -
NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO ACCESS THE DRIVE SHAFT.
ALSO ANY INFO ON REMOVING MUFFLER I THINK IT NEEDS TO COME OUT TO REMOVE ENGINE?????
THANKS IN ADVANCE BEST REGARDS Don S/V Adagio
Red Witch III, which is a "B" interior model, has latches to hold the panels in both cockpit lockers. I just need to flip the latches and I can reach, albeit awkwardly, the shaft and the transmission. Additionally, the B model has a pilot berth at the companionway. There is another access panel on the starboard side of the engine.
Although I have read on the Triton Message Board of owners installing deck hatches, I would recommend building a supporting framework below the cockpit, before opening it up. While that might work, you must remember that there is a wheel pedestal above and support below this deck. Access might only be just above the engine, and an awful long reach to the shaft.
Others on this board will probably have a more informed opinion than myself.
Fair winds,
Gary Lapine
Red Witch III
CD30C, #339
Somerset, MA
dory@attbi.com
Re: ACCESS TO DRIVE SHAFT ON CD 30 1984
Don, I haven't. However, I have considered it as our previous CD28 had one the PO had installed. It was great, and assisted a bunch in removing that engine when the transmission failed. However, on the CD30 the engine is much further forward relative to the cockpit sole compared to the 28, and wheel steering pedestal is in the way, as well. A small hatch might assist in getting to the shaft but it seems to me a hatch large enough to get into (as we had on the other boat) might be impractical. I can tell you how the one we had was fabricated, if that would help. I may even still have a photo or two. Good luck.
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance
(1984 w/Universal)
sankey@gulftel.com
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance
(1984 w/Universal)
DON wrote: HAS ANYONE PLACEd A HATCH OR DECKPLATE IN THE COCKPIT FLOOR TO
INHANCE ACCESS TO THE DRIVE SHAFT / TRANSMISSION IN A CD 30????
MINES A 1984.
IM IN MIDST OF PULLING ENGINE TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION -
NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO ACCESS THE DRIVE SHAFT.
ALSO ANY INFO ON REMOVING MUFFLER I THINK IT NEEDS TO COME OUT TO REMOVE ENGINE?????
THANKS IN ADVANCE BEST REGARDS Don S/V Adagio
sankey@gulftel.com
Cockpit floor hatch
Yes, I've done it and I might add it is an excellent improvement and it greatly improves stern tube and engine access. Now for the bad news.....It's not a project to take lightly. It isn't as easy as it may sound. Making the hole in the sole and installing a commercially made hatch wouldn't be too bad of a project at all. Problem is the high quality comercially made hatches that you can depend on are very expensive and usually made of cast aluminum (which will corrode in time)or you can get a nice (super high priced) bronze one that would be great to have.
I did neither........I decided to build one and at the same time include in the project a battery box that would be permanently located under the sole forward of the steering quadrant. All of that became a big job. It did turn out quite nice but it required a substantial amount of time, especially making the hatch. If you check the archives on this board you can probably locate some older posts I made describing this stuff in more detail. In simple description terms the hatch opening is basically the entire area forward of the pedestal not including the scupper drain channels. I can sit inside the hatch opening and work on the engine with the batteries removed from the modular battery box.
If you look at the Pacific Seacraft's you will note they have a fiberglass hatch basically the same as I am describing except mine is made from teak to look like a teak deck, with payed caulk seams. If you are up to the project the results are well worth the effort. To this day I've never had a leak. I made this conversion many years ago. I currently have the hatch cover removed from the boat to refinish it. I can send you a picture of it if you wish for reference.
As for the original custom made stainless muffler, it's basically junk on the CD's anyway. A welded stainless muffler can is nothing but a Pandoras Box, pin holes and leaks galore,weeping and CO leaks, it will never end. The welds fail miserably because of no passivity due to the weld process, welds corrode faster on the inside than plain old iron. I removed mine and tossed it. I installed a Naqualift located to the port side of the engine and made a new riser from pipe fittings. To do that you need to fabricate and install a muffler platform base onto the hull to mount it on. I can send you a pic of that also if you are interested. The original muffler comes off by removing the couple of bolts that secure it to the trans flange and then you have to cut the riser pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold flange so you can unscrew the piece from the flange ( a brilliant design, right?). Once you cut it to remove it you either have to weld it back together at the riser or toss it out and replace the thing. If it has any years on it good luck welding it. Maybe someone else has some other ideas for you.
I did neither........I decided to build one and at the same time include in the project a battery box that would be permanently located under the sole forward of the steering quadrant. All of that became a big job. It did turn out quite nice but it required a substantial amount of time, especially making the hatch. If you check the archives on this board you can probably locate some older posts I made describing this stuff in more detail. In simple description terms the hatch opening is basically the entire area forward of the pedestal not including the scupper drain channels. I can sit inside the hatch opening and work on the engine with the batteries removed from the modular battery box.
If you look at the Pacific Seacraft's you will note they have a fiberglass hatch basically the same as I am describing except mine is made from teak to look like a teak deck, with payed caulk seams. If you are up to the project the results are well worth the effort. To this day I've never had a leak. I made this conversion many years ago. I currently have the hatch cover removed from the boat to refinish it. I can send you a picture of it if you wish for reference.
As for the original custom made stainless muffler, it's basically junk on the CD's anyway. A welded stainless muffler can is nothing but a Pandoras Box, pin holes and leaks galore,weeping and CO leaks, it will never end. The welds fail miserably because of no passivity due to the weld process, welds corrode faster on the inside than plain old iron. I removed mine and tossed it. I installed a Naqualift located to the port side of the engine and made a new riser from pipe fittings. To do that you need to fabricate and install a muffler platform base onto the hull to mount it on. I can send you a pic of that also if you are interested. The original muffler comes off by removing the couple of bolts that secure it to the trans flange and then you have to cut the riser pipe that goes to the exhaust manifold flange so you can unscrew the piece from the flange ( a brilliant design, right?). Once you cut it to remove it you either have to weld it back together at the riser or toss it out and replace the thing. If it has any years on it good luck welding it. Maybe someone else has some other ideas for you.
DON wrote: HAS ANYONE PLACEd A HATCH OR DECKPLATE IN THE COCKPIT FLOOR TO
INHANCE ACCESS TO THE DRIVE SHAFT / TRANSMISSION IN A CD 30????
MINES A 1984.
IM IN MIDST OF PULLING ENGINE TO REPLACE THE TRANSMISSION -
NEXT TO IMPOSSIBLE TO ACCESS THE DRIVE SHAFT.
ALSO ANY INFO ON REMOVING MUFFLER I THINK IT NEEDS TO COME OUT TO REMOVE ENGINE?????
THANKS IN ADVANCE BEST REGARDS Don S/V Adagio
Re: Cockpit floor hatch
John,
Recently changed the water pump impeller and oil on the backwards mounted Yanmar in my CD 30. I'm ready for a hatch in the cockpit floor. Can you send a couple of pictures and any details on your hatch construction. Sounds like a good winter project.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
Recently changed the water pump impeller and oil on the backwards mounted Yanmar in my CD 30. I'm ready for a hatch in the cockpit floor. Can you send a couple of pictures and any details on your hatch construction. Sounds like a good winter project.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
I have foto's of hatch.......
......job done on CD28 by Mark Yaschinsky or maybe it was Joe Wysong(I can't remember - man it's all down hill after 50 isn't it???) ......
Anyway, he sent them to me about 3 years ago......a search of the archives would turn up the thread...
If you want them, e-mail me and I'll send them...
Cheers,
John
aimless@nc.rr.com
Anyway, he sent them to me about 3 years ago......a search of the archives would turn up the thread...
If you want them, e-mail me and I'll send them...
Cheers,
John
aimless@nc.rr.com