Thinking of replacing head in CD30 and wondering about the bolts
that hold it down....do they just screw into nothing or is it a
bolt? Would appreciate any advice from someone who has had the
original one out of boat. TY Jim
Sailonthesea@aol.com
Head
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Gary McDonough
Re: Head
Hi Jim,
I replaced the head on my 1984 30' last year. I believe it was a Groco. The head was about $150. It just screws into the floor. Naturally, the holes on the new one didn't line up with the existing ones so I had to re-drill two of them. No big deal though.
Gary
garym@taxinvest.com
I replaced the head on my 1984 30' last year. I believe it was a Groco. The head was about $150. It just screws into the floor. Naturally, the holes on the new one didn't line up with the existing ones so I had to re-drill two of them. No big deal though.
Gary
garym@taxinvest.com
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Ken Coit
Lag Bolts are what we found on Parfait
Jim,
The lag bolts seem to be effective if not sophisticated. Some protection between the bolt and a china bowl would seem to be in order. I guess that may be why some heads come with bronze bases.
Keep on sailing,
Ken Coit, ND7N
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC
parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com
The lag bolts seem to be effective if not sophisticated. Some protection between the bolt and a china bowl would seem to be in order. I guess that may be why some heads come with bronze bases.
Keep on sailing,
Ken Coit, ND7N
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC
Jim Lewis wrote: Thinking of replacing head in CD30 and wondering about the bolts
that hold it down....do they just screw into nothing or is it a
bolt? Would appreciate any advice from someone who has had the
original one out of boat. TY Jim
parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com
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charlie palumbo
Re: Head
Jim,Jim Lewis wrote: Thinking of replacing head in CD30 and wondering about the bolts
that hold it down....do they just screw into nothing or is it a
bolt? Would appreciate any advice from someone who has had the
original one out of boat. TY Jim
They basically screw into the base. I strongly suggest that you purchase a replacement unit with a bronze base.
Charlie...cd36 N.Y.
jcp1347j@aol.com
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John R.
Re: Head
I don't know what year CD30 you have so I can't tell you if this procedure will work on your boat for certain.....but.......
On my '83 CD30 I installed a deck access plate (the white plastic ones, like those made by Beckson)that has a screw in cap. I installed it into the riser face that supports the platform the head sits on. I'm speaking of the white fiberglass liner vertical section that rises from the teak sole up to the head platform. Don't be afraid to cut a hole for that deck plate as there is quite a bit of room between that riser facia and the hull under the head platform. Just don't use a long length jig saw blade, use a standard jig saw blade to be extra safe. If your boat is not an '83 or so vintage then be carefull cutting out the hole until you determine the space depth behind the facia.
A good way to do this is to drill a small pilot hole or two and use a probe wire or rod and slide it into the hole to see how deep it will penetrate before it hits the hull. Once you have that figured out and the plate installed then you will have easy access to the underside of the head platform. You will be able to install fender washers or a backing block and appropriate nuts and be able to tighten down the head firmly. My advice is through bolt it and seal the head base with a sealant all around the base if it is a skirted base head (can't do that on a head like a Groco or similar design)so stray waste doesn't get under the head and make cleaning impossible resulting in odors.
Experience has taught me to stay away from the bronze base heads because they corrode terribly. The painted bronze bases like Groco are even worse in a salt enviroment. The small PAR "compact" head is a pretty good unit as far as inexpensive heads are concerned. It is the easiest to keep clean with it's skirted base, has a decent pump assembly and a good inlet water fitting and valve. The base is strong and stable for a plastic unit and it has a wooden cored seat. The flush rod seal is a piece of cake to replace.The joker valve is a full flow design effectively eliminating any chance of an accidental clog. The *dry bowl* selection lever is a nice large formed plastic one and comfortable on the hand rather than the wire rod type on other heads that can snag clothing etc.,.
If you want a great head get the Blake Lavac but it will cost you I'm afraid. The PAR Compact is a good second choice for a typical head.
On my '83 CD30 I installed a deck access plate (the white plastic ones, like those made by Beckson)that has a screw in cap. I installed it into the riser face that supports the platform the head sits on. I'm speaking of the white fiberglass liner vertical section that rises from the teak sole up to the head platform. Don't be afraid to cut a hole for that deck plate as there is quite a bit of room between that riser facia and the hull under the head platform. Just don't use a long length jig saw blade, use a standard jig saw blade to be extra safe. If your boat is not an '83 or so vintage then be carefull cutting out the hole until you determine the space depth behind the facia.
A good way to do this is to drill a small pilot hole or two and use a probe wire or rod and slide it into the hole to see how deep it will penetrate before it hits the hull. Once you have that figured out and the plate installed then you will have easy access to the underside of the head platform. You will be able to install fender washers or a backing block and appropriate nuts and be able to tighten down the head firmly. My advice is through bolt it and seal the head base with a sealant all around the base if it is a skirted base head (can't do that on a head like a Groco or similar design)so stray waste doesn't get under the head and make cleaning impossible resulting in odors.
Experience has taught me to stay away from the bronze base heads because they corrode terribly. The painted bronze bases like Groco are even worse in a salt enviroment. The small PAR "compact" head is a pretty good unit as far as inexpensive heads are concerned. It is the easiest to keep clean with it's skirted base, has a decent pump assembly and a good inlet water fitting and valve. The base is strong and stable for a plastic unit and it has a wooden cored seat. The flush rod seal is a piece of cake to replace.The joker valve is a full flow design effectively eliminating any chance of an accidental clog. The *dry bowl* selection lever is a nice large formed plastic one and comfortable on the hand rather than the wire rod type on other heads that can snag clothing etc.,.
If you want a great head get the Blake Lavac but it will cost you I'm afraid. The PAR Compact is a good second choice for a typical head.
Jim Lewis wrote: Thinking of replacing head in CD30 and wondering about the bolts
that hold it down....do they just screw into nothing or is it a
bolt? Would appreciate any advice from someone who has had the
original one out of boat. TY Jim