2 questions:
l) want to replace 6 gal holding tank (currently aft of water tank under
V berth) with larger capacity one - but where to put. Has anyone
put in LARGER holding tank in DIFF place - like wedge-shaped under portside V berth near seacock for marine head seawater intake???
Dont want to take out water tank, but trying to avoid really long
hoses going far from head also. Am looking at Kracor and Ronco
holding tank specs.
2)caulking between teak veneer bulkheads and cabin top mildewed. Some areas sections have allready cracked and fallen out, other
sections sticky and hard to get out. Want to pry it out and recaulk. Assuming not structural function,just esthetic. Anyone ever done this? What did you use, Life Caulk or ??? Teak moulding would look nice, but pricey prob.
Thanks in Advance
dibblep@vcss.k12.ca.us
'78 Cape Dory 28 - Holding tanks and Bulkhead Caulking
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: '78 Cape Dory 28 - Holding tanks and Bulkhead Caulking
This spring I replaced the port and stbd. forward bulkheads on my 1977 CD30 due to a fire. The bulkheads were attached to a recess in the cabin top liner first by screwing with #14 x 1-1/2" screws and then caulking with a bedding compound. This compound could have been an epoxy filler. It was hard as rock. I order to prep for a new bulkhead I had to first cut out the bulkhead, then chisel the bulkhead reminants out of the recess. After this I was able to chisel out the caulking. Sometimes the gel coat came out with the caulking. When I replaced the bulkheads I screwed them in but used no caulking or bedding compound.
The door frame is the compression post. The bulkhead veneer aids only in keeping the frame straight. I would repair the cracked and fallen out caulking for cosmetic reasons only. A teak or cedar moulding would probably be easier than getting an overhead caulking job to look good.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
The door frame is the compression post. The bulkhead veneer aids only in keeping the frame straight. I would repair the cracked and fallen out caulking for cosmetic reasons only. A teak or cedar moulding would probably be easier than getting an overhead caulking job to look good.
Olli Wendelin
BLUE MOON
Charleston, SC
wendelin@spawar.navy.mil
Re: '78 Cape Dory 28 - Holding tanks and Bulkhead Caulking
I can't help you with the caulking problem, but I can say we installed an 8 gal bladder holding tank under the port berth in the maincabin. Inser is the proper word, as in drop in . . . there's no real installation except for running the plumbing. The discharge runs to a macerator located on the front wall of the port cockpit locker, and from there a Y valve sends it overboard or to a pumpout port about 15 inches from the fuel port. So, we do have lengths of plumbing, but they don't seem to be a problem. My wife has, at times, complained about an oder, but I don't think it's bad . . . and if there is one, it's not under the Vberth, where we sleep.kew wrote: 2 questions:
l) want to replace 6 gal holding tank (currently aft of water tank under
V berth) with larger capacity one - but where to put. Has anyone
put in LARGER holding tank in DIFF place - like wedge-shaped under portside V berth near seacock for marine head seawater intake???
Dont want to take out water tank, but trying to avoid really long
hoses going far from head also. Am looking at Kracor and Ronco
holding tank specs.
2)caulking between teak veneer bulkheads and cabin top mildewed. Some areas sections have allready cracked and fallen out, other
sections sticky and hard to get out. Want to pry it out and recaulk. Assuming not structural function,just esthetic. Anyone ever done this? What did you use, Life Caulk or ??? Teak moulding would look nice, but pricey prob.
Thanks in Advance
Jim Parmentier
Jellicoe@aol.com