Adding a floor to inflatable

[Mario]

When we bought Rhapsody she came equipped with a Zodiac 6' Cadet inflatable with a roll up slatted floor and a great Nissan 3HP outboard. We've had 4 friendly people in the dink at one time with no problem in calm water.

Still, the slatted floor is very flimsy feeling, especially when you first step onto it from any height. The other day I cracked one of the slats simply by leaning my hand on it in order to stand up and get back onto the mother ship.

I'm considering cutting a 1/2' piece of marine plywood to fit the bottom of the dinghy as an auxiliary floor for great stability. I'd round the edges and maybe put something around the edge to minimize chafe while in use. I'd probably take the floor out while towing to eliminate chafe.

Has anyone else done this? Any suggestions?

Mario
s/v Rhapsody
CD30 #252
Regent Point, VA



capedory252NOSPAM@aol.com

[Ed Haley]

Mario:
Your idea of using marine grade plywood is the type of floor Avon used on its Rover inflatables 6 or 7 years ago. The plywood fits under the side tubes and the side edges were fitted into a slotted aluminum tube to keep the sections (2 or 3 depending on length of the dinghy) together. The plywood made the dinghy real heavy but comfortable and secure to step into.

I'm sure you could fashion a section that would suffice as a floor. You would have to deflate the side tubes to fit the plywood section securely in the groove against the sides. You could use a length of hose slit on one side to fit onto the plywood to prevent chafing.

Ed Haley
s/v Mokita
CD330 #1
Kingston ON



eghaleyNOSPAM@twcny.rr.com

[Ron Brassord]

I added a plywood floor to my old Avon Redcrest which is the "donut" model, and it wooks very well. I used a piece of 3/8s exterior standard plywood, which is plenty stiff enough and quite heavy. Its cut so it tucks up under the tubes to hold it in place, and it does stay put. I just rounded the edges with a sander, puttied up the voids that showed, and painted it with left over junk. Its lasted three years and shows only some wear on the surface from banging the motor about. I also fastened a tapered piece of pressured treated 2x4 on the bottom to make a "keel" to help steering, and it does. It's going to last longer than I'll need it and cost about zip.It makes a whole different boat,and gets the most out of the 2 HP pusher. Good sailing Ron B Lighthouse Pt Fl.

Mario:
Your idea of using marine grade plywood is the type of floor Avon used on its Rover inflatables 6 or 7 years ago. The plywood fits under the side tubes and the side edges were fitted into a slotted aluminum tube to keep the sections (2 or 3 depending on length of the dinghy) together. The plywood made the dinghy real heavy but comfortable and secure to step into.

I'm sure you could fashion a section that would suffice as a floor. You would have to deflate the side tubes to fit the plywood section securely in the groove against the sides. You could use a length of hose slit on one side to fit onto the plywood to prevent chafing.

Ed Haley
s/v Mokita
CD330 #1
Kingston ON

RDBRASS@aol.com

[Ed Killian]

I did this with an old "rubber raft" that the kids and I used to play around in. Used 1/2" plywood cut close to the shape with a jig saw and used that black foam pipe insulation around the edges under the tube. Made the thing so much more comfortable and useful - all the difference in the world!
Ed k
CD25 Carolyn
Canandaigua Lake NY

[Chris Scheck]

How about using something like that thick foam rubber they use for gym floor covering? Cut it to shape and just lay it on top of the slatting. It will firm up the floor, spread the load when you step on it, and provide floatation too. In fact, I think I've seen pieces of foam about that size that are sold as workout mats.

I like to keep an old rubber doormat on the big boat. It's handy whenever you need to set something heavy like an anchor or an outboard on the deck. I even take it up forward when I'm pulling anchor chain out of the hawsepipe. Why bang up the fiberglass?

Chris Scheck
RAGTIME
CD33



cscheck@aol.com