Heat guns for varnish removal and gelcoat protection?

[Joel S]

Several posts have recommended a heat gun and scraper for removal of old varnish, followed by light sanding and then the varnish. I received the same advice following a visit to Edey and Duff in Mattapoisett (they were restoring some old stone horses and Herreschoff 12 1/2s). My question: when working on small teak pieces surrounded by fiberglass (like the toe rails), how do you protect the gelcoat from any damage from the heat gun ??? or is this not an issue ?



joels@ids.net

[Larry DeMers]

I use a heat deflector that attaches to the heat guns neck. It is a flat piece that has a right angle to it, so that it comes off the gun about an inch offset and it sticks out about 3 in. in front of the nozzle. This keeps the finish under the deflector from getting hot.
In your case, this would work well, if you move right along. Try it first and get your technique sorted out. Heat works ok if you don't darken (or burn in extreme cases)the wood. If this happens, stop and take a break..you are going too slow. Also, sharpen your putty knifes edge to right angles, so that you can use it as a scraper (or hey, use a scraper..).
I got this tool with the heat gun..it's a Wagner product.

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
CD30

Several posts have recommended a heat gun and scraper for removal of old varnish, followed by light sanding and then the varnish. I received the same advice following a visit to Edey and Duff in Mattapoisett (they were restoring some old stone horses and Herreschoff 12 1/2s). My question: when working on small teak pieces surrounded by fiberglass (like the toe rails), how do you protect the gelcoat from any damage from the heat gun ??? or is this not an issue ?

demers@sgi.com

[Charlie palumbo]

Several posts have recommended a heat gun and scraper for removal of old varnish, followed by light sanding and then the varnish. I received the same advice following a visit to Edey and Duff in Mattapoisett (they were restoring some old stone horses and Herreschoff 12 1/2s). My question: when working on small teak pieces surrounded by fiberglass (like the toe rails), how do you protect the gelcoat from any damage from the heat gun ??? or is this not an issue ?

It can be an issue because if you at some point relax your concentration, you will find yourself "sitting" with the heat gun on the same spot a bit too long. If you do this, you can possibly have a problem with the heat from the gun on the adjacent fiberglass.
What I have done in the past,which has worked well, is to cut a mobile piece of cardboard and simply leave it below the spot you are working on, atop the fiberglass. I would also recommend a small cardboard box to place the heat gun when you rest or change location.
good luck,
Charlie cd36 N.Y.



jcp1347j@aol.com

[Dana]

Yes, it is by far the easiest way to remove the old layers. And.. yes... you do have to pay attention to the work as it is performed. I use a Black and Decker two stage heat gun with a flat 1-1/2 inch wide nozzle tip deflector. I do not protect the gel coat because I want to get the edging between the gel coat and wood. For the toe rail I use the flat nozzle in the UP AND DOWN direction, covering the full height of the toe rail, i.e. I use the deflector to concentate a narrow vertical heat zone while pointing directly at the work horizontally. The end turns of the flat nozzle is enough to keep excessive heat off the gel coat. I hold the heat gun upside down (handle up) with my left hand while immediately coming behind with my putty knife in my leather GLOVED right hand. When you get going you will find keeping your right hand (or left if lefty) and the putty knife cool will be more of a chore than worrying about the gel coat. Heat the wood only until you form bubbles in the coating..about an 1-1/2 inches away from the work....then follow immediately with the putty knife . You want to get to the coating while it is still soft (heated). Both the putty knife and heat gun move together and almost continuously at the same time. Remove the heat gun immediately (you only have a second or two) if you note the exposed wood turns dark on you. You can use the lower heat gun setting until you get used to it...

Dana

____________________________________________

Several posts have recommended a heat gun and scraper for removal of old varnish, followed by light sanding and then the varnish. I received the same advice following a visit to Edey and Duff in Mattapoisett (they were restoring some old stone horses and Herreschoff 12 1/2s). My question: when working on small teak pieces surrounded by fiberglass (like the toe rails), how do you protect the gelcoat from any damage from the heat gun ??? or is this not an issue ?

darenius@aol.com