Teak Oil -- anyone using it?

[Peter K.]

Looking at the messages about cleaning up the brightwork on Cape Dories I don't seem to see many people using teak oil on their boats. I know that it is a constant job to keep the teak oiled, but it also seems to be a job that would be pretty easy to do. I'm guessing that if I oiled my teak once a month during the season that would be about right, and it would look pretty good. I'm also guessing that it would only take me an hour or so to do this job -- is that a pretty good guess? So, if I'm right, an hour or two a month would be sufficient to keep my brightwork looking nice and natural. Right now it looks pretty bad because the wood had been varnished and it is peeling all over, leaving some rather ugly looking teak. I'd like to hear from anyone who regularly oils the teak on their boat to find out if that is the way I should go. I'd also like to know what's the best way to remove the peeling varnish -- I'm a bit worried about both sanding the varnish and screwing up the wood, or using some sort of varnish remover and perhaps messing up the gelcoat on the surrounding fiberglass. Any ideas??
As usual, thanks in advance for your help.



waltzingmatilda@sailnet.net

[Peter Guerrero]

I tried teak oil and found it unsatisfactory. Unless you're way north, the UV breaks down the oil very quickly and you're into constant oiling. I've had excellent results with Cetol. It needs to be updated every season or two but it is easy to do and requires little preparation. On removing varnish, check with the guys at the West Marine store nearest you when you go to buy the Cetol! Remember the motto: less maintenance means more sailing!

Looking at the messages about cleaning up the brightwork on Cape Dories I don't seem to see many people using teak oil on their boats. I know that it is a constant job to keep the teak oiled, but it also seems to be a job that would be pretty easy to do. I'm guessing that if I oiled my teak once a month during the season that would be about right, and it would look pretty good. I'm also guessing that it would only take me an hour or so to do this job -- is that a pretty good guess? So, if I'm right, an hour or two a month would be sufficient to keep my brightwork looking nice and natural. Right now it looks pretty bad because the wood had been varnished and it is peeling all over, leaving some rather ugly looking teak. I'd like to hear from anyone who regularly oils the teak on their boat to find out if that is the way I should go. I'd also like to know what's the best way to remove the peeling varnish -- I'm a bit worried about both sanding the varnish and screwing up the wood, or using some sort of varnish remover and perhaps messing up the gelcoat on the surrounding fiberglass. Any ideas??
As usual, thanks in advance for your help.

pfguerrero@aol.com

[Anthony P. Jeske]

Peter:
I gave up on teak oil long ago. Mold or something gets in the softer part of the wood grain and the wood darkens. More oil only makes it darker and dirtier looking. In short order you're sanding again, so it's not just an hour each month re-oiling. I have been using Cetol for years now, IMHO it's the solution. Yes, some people don't like the "orangy" look, but the benefits far outweigh any minor concerns about color.
I have had best results removing old varnish by using a heat gun and scraper. It's relatively quick, a lot less messy than chemical removers and you'll have less concerns about dissolving gelcoat or your brain cells. Once you've used the heat gun and scraper, a light sanding will leave your teak ready for the finish coat.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
CD-25D #141
Breezy
San Diego



ajeske@ixpres.com

[john doyle]

Looking at the messages about cleaning up the brightwork on Cape Dories I don't seem to see many people using teak oil on their boats. I know that it is a constant job to keep the teak oiled, but it also seems to be a job that would be pretty easy to do. I'm guessing that if I oiled my teak once a month during the season that would be about right, and it would look pretty good. I'm also guessing that it would only take me an hour or so to do this job -- is that a pretty good guess? So, if I'm right, an hour or two a month would be sufficient to keep my brightwork looking nice and natural. Right now it looks pretty bad because the wood had been varnished and it is peeling all over, leaving some rather ugly looking teak. I'd like to hear from anyone who regularly oils the teak on their boat to find out if that is the way I should go. I'd also like to know what's the best way to remove the peeling varnish -- I'm a bit worried about both sanding the varnish and screwing up the wood, or using some sort of varnish remover and perhaps messing up the gelcoat on the surrounding fiberglass. Any ideas??
As usual, thanks in advance for your help.

I'm also in the process of removing the last owner's varnish & wondering what to put on. Nothing like the varnished look. I used oil on my last boat in W.Palm Beach, Fl. & put on a couple of coats a month in the summer, April to December. When it needed refinishing, I used 2 part cleaner. It's all work, so put on what you like to look at. Women choose their own make up, don't they?
John CD31 #18 Bonnie Blue
Lake Lanier, Georgia



redzeplin@yahoo.com

[John M Freeman]

I would suggest Cetol as well. 3 initial coats after sanding and prep, one or two coats each season afterwards. Have used it on a few boats I have worked on, and it works just as advertised. As far as the orange color, there is a new formula that isn't as orangey. Haven't used that one yet, but hear it is just as good. I will be using it on my boat just as soon as I get time to work on her. Would also recommend against teak oil, for all of the reasons previously mentioned, it picks up dirt, fades quickly, requires alot of reapplication.



capn_jack68@yahoo.com

[Ed Killian]

Peter
I've been using teak oil for years, first on my Pt Jude and now on the CD25. Tried Cetol on the Pt Jude for a couple of seasons but went back to the oil because I just think it looks a lot nicer. Matter of taste...
We use a single part cleaner in the spring (I think the 2 -part is too harsh) and only sand every couple of years. Then put on 2 heavy coats of oil, rubbing well after each application. Then we oil again maybe 3 times during the season. The oil is good for the wood, it looks terrific even as it fades, and it is easy to apply. My wife and I enjoy doing it and it takes maybe 1 1/2 hours or less on the CD25. Its one of those fine jobs that you can do while thinking or talking about something else and then when you are done you look at your boat and say "wow!"
We use West Marine Premium Gold, and the West Marine cleaner.
Good Sailing,
Ed Killian
CD 25 Carolyn
Canandaigua, NY

[Bill Michne]

I just spent the better part of a week removing old varnish with a heat gun and scraper. The removed varnish can be picked up by a vacuum leaving no mess on the boat. I then sanded with #80 followed by #150. Finished with 3 coats of Cetol. Boat looks terrific. Next year I will sand lightly, put on one or two coats of
Cetol, followed by two gloss coats. Looks like varnish. This is the second CD I've done in Cetol. The first was a 31 and the Cetol lasted four full seasons before I had to touch it up. I used to do the oil thing but you have to keep after it and it still looks worse over time. But in the end it's all about what you like.

Bill Michne
Mintaka, CD-40 #7

Looking at the messages about cleaning up the brightwork on Cape Dories I don't seem to see many people using teak oil on their boats. I know that it is a constant job to keep the teak oiled, but it also seems to be a job that would be pretty easy to do. I'm guessing that if I oiled my teak once a month during the season that would be about right, and it would look pretty good. I'm also guessing that it would only take me an hour or so to do this job -- is that a pretty good guess? So, if I'm right, an hour or two a month would be sufficient to keep my brightwork looking nice and natural. Right now it looks pretty bad because the wood had been varnished and it is peeling all over, leaving some rather ugly looking teak. I'd like to hear from anyone who regularly oils the teak on their boat to find out if that is the way I should go. I'd also like to know what's the best way to remove the peeling varnish -- I'm a bit worried about both sanding the varnish and screwing up the wood, or using some sort of varnish remover and perhaps messing up the gelcoat on the surrounding fiberglass. Any ideas??
As usual, thanks in advance for your help.

wmichne@msn.com

[Boyd]

I think its partly a regional thing. I am in Florida and tried several types of teak oil. They all turn nasty in 3 months. Lots of black mold etc. The people up north seem to have much better luck with oil. Less sun, humidity,mold. I use Cetol because it seens to last the longest. The "trick" with Cetol is to use only 2 coats of the brown and follow with 3+ coats of clear. Recoat with clear when needed. I wash the Cetol surface every so often to remove the black mold.

Boyd

Looking at the messages about cleaning up the brightwork on Cape Dories I don't seem to see many people using teak oil on their boats. I know that it is a constant job to keep the teak oiled, but it also seems to be a job that would be pretty easy to do. I'm guessing that if I oiled my teak once a month during the season that would be about right, and it would look pretty good. I'm also guessing that it would only take me an hour or so to do this job -- is that a pretty good guess? So, if I'm right, an hour or two a month would be sufficient to keep my brightwork looking nice and natural. Right now it looks pretty bad because the wood had been varnished and it is peeling all over, leaving some rather ugly looking teak. I'd like to hear from anyone who regularly oils the teak on their boat to find out if that is the way I should go. I'd also like to know what's the best way to remove the peeling varnish -- I'm a bit worried about both sanding the varnish and screwing up the wood, or using some sort of varnish remover and perhaps messing up the gelcoat on the surrounding fiberglass. Any ideas??
As usual, thanks in advance for your help.

Boyd@wbta.cc

[Joel S]

If you use a heat gun and scraper to remove the varnish, how do you prevent the heat from damaging the fiberglass and/or gelcoat when removing the varnish from the toerails ??



joels@ids.net

[Mark Cline]

After reviewing several threads on this board, I decided to give TeakGuard a try. Although it's only been a few months, I'm very pleased with the results. I much prefer the color over Ceatol. Although you do not get the high gloss finish, it is much easer to maintain and remove, if necessary. I would highly recommend the product.

You can find more information at www.marinestore.com

Mark
CD Power 28FB #219
Brandywine
Annapolis, MD



anaplsmark@aol.com

[Isaac]

On my CD 25 I sanded her down and applied two coats of cetol. Then I used cetol gloss, which really makes her look beautiful especially when it is sunny. This year, I just touched it up by adding the gloss. Didn't even sand, just one gloss application. The gloss is easy to clean when u spill, so no need for tape, its very easy. I'll aplly it again in late August.

Get lots of compliments on the bright work.