After a 4 year hiatus, due to an encounter with the big "C", I am getting my CD30 cutter ready, once again, to take me sailing. It was quite the battle holding on to it during all this, but I'm ready now to resume using this fine craft.
Since it's well into the sailing season up here (Boston), I'm going to have to make several compromises in order to get this done.
My first, of what will be several questions to the board, concerns all of that teak:
For the first 8 years, I kept all of the teak varnished. But I just couldn't get the damned stuff to adhere. I meticulously prepared the surfaces; tried undercoating with very thinned-down varnish...No Go.. For a couple of years, I started off with 2 coats of of Smith's Clear Penetrating Expoxy Sealer, under the the requisite 6 layers of Epifanes, Captain's Varnish or Schooner Varnish,... All To no avail!! No matter what I did, when I pulled the cover off, in the Spring, I found a heartbreaking mess of peeled off varnish, which required all that extra work of starting all over. I'M SURE MOST OF YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT!!
Anyway, just before I got sick, I tried the Smith two part clear polyurethane system. The one that's supposed to last 5 years. Let's just say it didn't work, either.
I've just gotten done peeling all of the Smiths off and I'm down to bare wood. I just don't have the time, this year, to attempt to build up that bright varnished look on my toe and rub rails, that I crave so much. There's just not enough time.
The question is: Is there anything that I can apply that will not preclude my varnishing it next year? Something to protect the wood, but not take a major effort to remove. I guess that leaves the various sealers, discussed here, out. What about just oiling it a few times?
In any case, I'm prepared to launch ugly, this year. But it sure would be great to pretty her up, once I get the time.
Thanks in advance.
dorycpt@yahoo.com
First of what may be many questions: brightwork
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Bristol Bronze
Re: First of what may be many questions: brightwork
Dear Lee,Lee Gailzaid wrote: After a 4 year hiatus, due to an encounter with the big "C", I am getting my CD30 cutter ready, once again, to take me sailing. It was quite the battle holding on to it during all this, but I'm ready now to resume using this fine craft.
Since it's well into the sailing season up here (Boston), I'm going to have to make several compromises in order to get this done.
My first, of what will be several questions to the board, concerns all of that teak:
For the first 8 years, I kept all of the teak varnished. But I just couldn't get the damned stuff to adhere. I meticulously prepared the surfaces; tried undercoating with very thinned-down varnish...No Go.. For a couple of years, I started off with 2 coats of of Smith's Clear Penetrating Expoxy Sealer, under the the requisite 6 layers of Epifanes, Captain's Varnish or Schooner Varnish,... All To no avail!! No matter what I did, when I pulled the cover off, in the Spring, I found a heartbreaking mess of peeled off varnish, which required all that extra work of starting all over. I'M SURE MOST OF YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT!!
Anyway, just before I got sick, I tried the Smith two part clear polyurethane system. The one that's supposed to last 5 years. Let's just say it didn't work, either.
I've just gotten done peeling all of the Smiths off and I'm down to bare wood. I just don't have the time, this year, to attempt to build up that bright varnished look on my toe and rub rails, that I crave so much. There's just not enough time.
The question is: Is there anything that I can apply that will not preclude my varnishing it next year? Something to protect the wood, but not take a major effort to remove. I guess that leaves the various sealers, discussed here, out. What about just oiling it a few times?
In any case, I'm prepared to launch ugly, this year. But it sure would be great to pretty her up, once I get the time.
Thanks in advance.
I feel as you do about the teak on my boat. My boat (the one on the home page of my web site bristolbronze.com) will be 82 years old later this year. I have owned the boat for 32 years and have teak everywhere. The thing that I do and probably the best thing that you can do in your present situation is to go over your teak with a bleach called "Snapy-Nu-Teak". It is a two part system that requires scrubbing but it is worth it. When you are done your teak will look great. After that apply two or three coats of "StarBrite Premium Teak Oil". I have tried other oils and they just don't work as well. It takes about an hour between coats so all three can be applied in the same afternoon.
Next Spring, if you want to get back to the varnish, just bleach your teak again to remove the surface oil and you will be all set. If you do plan to use varnish in the future don't cover your boat too well in the winter. Leave a small opening in the cover bow and stern to let the air pass through. The humidity that can build up under the cover may be the reason that you have had problems in the past with the varnish.
Roger W.
Bristol Bronze
401-625-5224
sales@bristolbronze.com
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Fred
Re: First of what may be many questions: brightwork
The problem you are having is due to water being absorbed by the teak. Bedding compound just doesn't hold up as long as we would like.
The water is getting in breaks in the bedding compound, and there isn't a heck of a lot you can do. The only way to fix it, is to remove the teak, dry it out, and put a couple of coats of epoxy on the areas to be bedded.
You would probably be best served switching to cetol, armada, etc. These products hold up better to wet wood. sadly they don't look as nice.
If it were me, I'd enjoy the rest of the season and deal with it next year.
Fred@hotsheet.com
The water is getting in breaks in the bedding compound, and there isn't a heck of a lot you can do. The only way to fix it, is to remove the teak, dry it out, and put a couple of coats of epoxy on the areas to be bedded.
You would probably be best served switching to cetol, armada, etc. These products hold up better to wet wood. sadly they don't look as nice.
If it were me, I'd enjoy the rest of the season and deal with it next year.
Fred@hotsheet.com
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Peter Guerrero
Re: First of what may be many questions: brightwork
Sound like you like the look of varnished brightwork--and,when in top shape, it looks great. Consider Cetol if you'd like to cut down on the maintenace. See my earlier post.
pfguerrero@aol.com
Lee Gailzaid wrote: After a 4 year hiatus, due to an encounter with the big "C", I am getting my CD30 cutter ready, once again, to take me sailing. It was quite the battle holding on to it during all this, but I'm ready now to resume using this fine craft.
Since it's well into the sailing season up here (Boston), I'm going to have to make several compromises in order to get this done.
My first, of what will be several questions to the board, concerns all of that teak:
For the first 8 years, I kept all of the teak varnished. But I just couldn't get the damned stuff to adhere. I meticulously prepared the surfaces; tried undercoating with very thinned-down varnish...No Go.. For a couple of years, I started off with 2 coats of of Smith's Clear Penetrating Expoxy Sealer, under the the requisite 6 layers of Epifanes, Captain's Varnish or Schooner Varnish,... All To no avail!! No matter what I did, when I pulled the cover off, in the Spring, I found a heartbreaking mess of peeled off varnish, which required all that extra work of starting all over. I'M SURE MOST OF YOU KNOW EXACTLY WHAT I'M TALKING ABOUT!!
Anyway, just before I got sick, I tried the Smith two part clear polyurethane system. The one that's supposed to last 5 years. Let's just say it didn't work, either.
I've just gotten done peeling all of the Smiths off and I'm down to bare wood. I just don't have the time, this year, to attempt to build up that bright varnished look on my toe and rub rails, that I crave so much. There's just not enough time.
The question is: Is there anything that I can apply that will not preclude my varnishing it next year? Something to protect the wood, but not take a major effort to remove. I guess that leaves the various sealers, discussed here, out. What about just oiling it a few times?
In any case, I'm prepared to launch ugly, this year. But it sure would be great to pretty her up, once I get the time.
Thanks in advance.
pfguerrero@aol.com
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Bill Turenne
Re: First of what may be many questions: brightwork
Lee,
Anyone who has dealt with, and conquered "the big C" has certainly had to think through much more than any one of "the rest of us" have ever had to do. If I can add anything to your current dilemma, it might be that IF, the look, the feeling of accomplishment, and the satisfaction in the touch of real varnish gives you pleasure -- however fleetingly, then do as all of those who are in agreement with you do -- scrape, sand, and varnish. It's worth all of the hours -- as the cetol folks acknowledge every time they look at real varnish; and voice their appreciation of the work involved!
I for one salute you on the fight you have waged and apparently won. You didn't compromise then -- don't waver now on a much less important issue.
Best of luck. By the way, if you try a heat gun to remove the previous material, you may just get at the root of the problem, which may be the underlying level of moisture in the teak. I aslsdo believe that the varnish manufacturers market a seaker, which may include more than varnish and turpentine.
Bill Turenne
Assurance
CD 36 #107
bill@turenneco.com
Anyone who has dealt with, and conquered "the big C" has certainly had to think through much more than any one of "the rest of us" have ever had to do. If I can add anything to your current dilemma, it might be that IF, the look, the feeling of accomplishment, and the satisfaction in the touch of real varnish gives you pleasure -- however fleetingly, then do as all of those who are in agreement with you do -- scrape, sand, and varnish. It's worth all of the hours -- as the cetol folks acknowledge every time they look at real varnish; and voice their appreciation of the work involved!
I for one salute you on the fight you have waged and apparently won. You didn't compromise then -- don't waver now on a much less important issue.
Best of luck. By the way, if you try a heat gun to remove the previous material, you may just get at the root of the problem, which may be the underlying level of moisture in the teak. I aslsdo believe that the varnish manufacturers market a seaker, which may include more than varnish and turpentine.
Bill Turenne
Assurance
CD 36 #107
bill@turenneco.com