So, I'm looking at getting a newer, quieter, more effecient and smaller outboard for a cd25. I have a buyer for my old Johnson sailmaster 9.9 2-stroke (what's the going rate for one by the way?), which I always thought was over-kill in the power dept.. It practically gets the cd25 up on a plane-6 plus knots. I've been looking at the nissan 4, 5 or 6hp. Seems alot of folks on this site are happy with their 5 or 6hp 4-stroke nissans. I'm wondering if anyone has used a 4hp 4-stroke to push a cd25. When comparing stats between the 4, 5 and 6hp, I find they have the same cylinder size. The only difference is the type of prop or the maximum rpm's, and of course the price. Anyone have any input on this.
-1974 cd25 "serendipity".
ashfordclinic@prodigy.net
cd25 new outboard motor-how low can you go
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Gerry/BarracudaCD25
Re: cd25 new outboard motor-how low can you go
I purchased my CD25 Jul 2000. Once I got her cleaned up in the boatyard and replaced the gates valves and the thru hulls with marelon fittings, I slapped on two coats of bottom paint since the former owner sanded all the bottom paint off years ago. I wanted to get her in the water as soon as possible. To get by and save some money initially, I took the 1983 Johnson 9.9 short shaft trolling motor off of my power boat and figured I could used it till the following summer when I could save some money and get a feel for what works well. My Johnson worked well. A little short but I got by. I did not like the idea of leaving her in the lazarette even though I had three coats of clear antifouling sprayed on her. She still grew slime and had a few barnacles after several months. I pulled her in December for the winter and put her back in in the spring. This was a very arduous job. She weighs 78 pounds and had to have the motor mount unbolted from the boat and screwed to the engine then lowered into the well then bolted to the boat. I thought that marine life had a chance to grow inside the water intakes after several months with chance of preventing cooling water from entering.
I had decided to power down as the 9.9hp provided more than enough power. I wanted a lighter easier handled engine. I asked others what they thought. Many thought 4 stroke was the way to go. I looked at a Honda 5hp but the handle would not fold back. An 8hp was too big and heavy to take in and out every time I sailed. I settled for a Nissan(Tohatsu and Mercury are the same engine as Tohatsu makes these engines for Nissan and Mercury) 5hp 4-stroke long shaft. This engine weighs 55 pounds although the catalog says 57 pounds. This engine was like magic. It comes with a standard 8inch pitch prop. It works well to half throttle then boggs down. It does not have the chance to wind up in rpm as a CD displacement hull is non-planing. They sell optional 9inch for small light 12ft aluminum boats for speed. Also 7 inch for heavier boats. I talked to my mechanic dealer, he suggested that I take my current 8inch prop to the local prop shop to have it repitched to 6inch. This only cost $25 versus $100 for a 7inch brand new prop. This works like a charm. This prop winds up in rpm(400 more) and really makes a difference in performance. Wednesday there was no wind I motored out of the creek at 5.3knots for about 2miles. This was done at alittle over half throttle. As I went north up the Potomac River I noticed the boat only making 2.8knots the wind started to kick up with a chop of 1 foot . I did not change the throttle setting. I looked at a green can to my left. It was tipped over quite a bit(2 probably 3 knots) as the tide was ebbing. I increased to full power and made a run of about 2miles. I was heading into about a 10 knot wind. Speed calculated at 4.8 knots measured from navigation marker to another with speed thru the water of 6.8knots(2knot current). All were timed over distance run. I ran 24 miles that day with an approximate fuel consumption of 1.5 gallons. Not too shabby! I am very satisfied with my Nissan 5hp 4-stroke long shaft. They are much quieter and do not smell of 2 cycle oil. I run it with the hatch down and forward board out and top circular ventilation ports open. The engine gets plenty of air for combustion. I had to make a cutaway on the motor mount(2x6) thus lowering the engine to get the hatch closed without out resting on the engine cover. Make sure the pin is on the third hole as this prevents the back of the engine from resting on the fiberglass on the stern when the engine at full power tips back from the thrust. This engine has been wonderful and I highly recommend it for a CD25. You can even get an alternator but you have to run it for an hour to get just 5 amps. I just use a solar panel to charge my battery. Good luck.
Gerry
s/v Barracuda
Upper Machodoc Creek Potomac River
I had decided to power down as the 9.9hp provided more than enough power. I wanted a lighter easier handled engine. I asked others what they thought. Many thought 4 stroke was the way to go. I looked at a Honda 5hp but the handle would not fold back. An 8hp was too big and heavy to take in and out every time I sailed. I settled for a Nissan(Tohatsu and Mercury are the same engine as Tohatsu makes these engines for Nissan and Mercury) 5hp 4-stroke long shaft. This engine weighs 55 pounds although the catalog says 57 pounds. This engine was like magic. It comes with a standard 8inch pitch prop. It works well to half throttle then boggs down. It does not have the chance to wind up in rpm as a CD displacement hull is non-planing. They sell optional 9inch for small light 12ft aluminum boats for speed. Also 7 inch for heavier boats. I talked to my mechanic dealer, he suggested that I take my current 8inch prop to the local prop shop to have it repitched to 6inch. This only cost $25 versus $100 for a 7inch brand new prop. This works like a charm. This prop winds up in rpm(400 more) and really makes a difference in performance. Wednesday there was no wind I motored out of the creek at 5.3knots for about 2miles. This was done at alittle over half throttle. As I went north up the Potomac River I noticed the boat only making 2.8knots the wind started to kick up with a chop of 1 foot . I did not change the throttle setting. I looked at a green can to my left. It was tipped over quite a bit(2 probably 3 knots) as the tide was ebbing. I increased to full power and made a run of about 2miles. I was heading into about a 10 knot wind. Speed calculated at 4.8 knots measured from navigation marker to another with speed thru the water of 6.8knots(2knot current). All were timed over distance run. I ran 24 miles that day with an approximate fuel consumption of 1.5 gallons. Not too shabby! I am very satisfied with my Nissan 5hp 4-stroke long shaft. They are much quieter and do not smell of 2 cycle oil. I run it with the hatch down and forward board out and top circular ventilation ports open. The engine gets plenty of air for combustion. I had to make a cutaway on the motor mount(2x6) thus lowering the engine to get the hatch closed without out resting on the engine cover. Make sure the pin is on the third hole as this prevents the back of the engine from resting on the fiberglass on the stern when the engine at full power tips back from the thrust. This engine has been wonderful and I highly recommend it for a CD25. You can even get an alternator but you have to run it for an hour to get just 5 amps. I just use a solar panel to charge my battery. Good luck.
Gerry
s/v Barracuda
Upper Machodoc Creek Potomac River
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Tom Foley
Re: cd25 new outboard motor-how low can you go
When I purchased my CD25 it had a 9,9 Sailmaster that was in rough shape. I sold it for parts for $250.00. My previous boat was a Rhodes19 and I was told I only needed a 4 HP. Well a 4 HP didn't work in my situation when I was going up river and the tide was coming out. I changed to a Mariner 8 (2 stroke) and that is what I have on my CD25. It works perfectly at about half speed. I would say the horsepower required will depend on whwere you do your motoring. Ask others in your area that have 25 foot, full keel boats.
Good luck,
Tom
PS: My cd25 is also a 74. It's # 95
alewifehouse@mainecoast.net
Good luck,
Tom
PS: My cd25 is also a 74. It's # 95
alewifehouse@mainecoast.net
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Tom Babington
Re: cd25 new outboard motor-how low can you go
I have a 1976 CD25 I replaced the 9.9hp OMC overweight slug with a Tohatsu 8hp 2 stroke with electric start and alt. Runs great light enough to easily lift out of well. Lots of power for Buzzards Bay. The only problem is trying to find antifouling paint for aluminum that will keep the barncles off all season. You would have to check the throttle for clearance I have a wheel and the throttle is at 90 degrees for use then folds back to close the hatch.
Tom
S/V Stardust
CD25 #444
tomb5050@aol.com
Tom
S/V Stardust
CD25 #444
tomb5050@aol.com
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Jim
Re: cd25 new outboard motor-how low can you go
Beleive it or not I use a Honda 4 cycle 2 hp most of the time. If there is breeze I am sailing. In no breeze the engine kicks us along up to 4-5 knots. I would not want to fight wind or current and I have a Nissan 8 hp for any cruising. So it really depends upon your situation.
jmyers@styluscentral.com
david wiencke wrote: So, I'm looking at getting a newer, quieter, more effecient and smaller outboard for a cd25. I have a buyer for my old Johnson sailmaster 9.9 2-stroke (what's the going rate for one by the way?), which I always thought was over-kill in the power dept.. It practically gets the cd25 up on a plane-6 plus knots. I've been looking at the nissan 4, 5 or 6hp. Seems alot of folks on this site are happy with their 5 or 6hp 4-stroke nissans. I'm wondering if anyone has used a 4hp 4-stroke to push a cd25. When comparing stats between the 4, 5 and 6hp, I find they have the same cylinder size. The only difference is the type of prop or the maximum rpm's, and of course the price. Anyone have any input on this.
-1974 cd25 "serendipity".
jmyers@styluscentral.com