I am trying to decide which is better and would appreciate any comments. I would also appreciate any information on where I can get a tent cover or how to design and make my own. I also need ty buy a block for a spinnaker halyard. I have a 5/16 braided halyard. I looked at Harken blocks at my local BoatUS store. They looked very flimsy and the salesman actually suggested I go elswhere for a Ronstan or Shaeffer. Does anybody know what working load I should be looking for? Does anybody recommend a specific style such as fixed or swivel. I would think fixed to avoid twisting the hayard.
djhan@aol.com
CD25 - Sail vs. tent cover? & Spinnaker halyard block?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
Re: Spinnaker halyard block
Dan:
The spinnaker halyard block shold be a swivel block. You'll want all the help you can get out any twists the spinnaker may have when it's raised.
I'm sure you'll get a lot of reaction to the salesman's non-Harken recommendation. I expect what he was trying to say is that the plastic balls inside any brand ball bearing blocks will deform if the block is overloaded.
My West Marine catalog says the following about 2.25" Harken blocks: "Often used for spinnaker halyards and sheets on small offshore boats." Actually, I would expect this is overkill as the 2.25" block is for 7/16" line. The 1 1/2" blocks, such as Harken number 168, are for use with up to 3/8" line.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
CD-25D #141
Breezy
San Diego
ajeske@ixpres.com
The spinnaker halyard block shold be a swivel block. You'll want all the help you can get out any twists the spinnaker may have when it's raised.
I'm sure you'll get a lot of reaction to the salesman's non-Harken recommendation. I expect what he was trying to say is that the plastic balls inside any brand ball bearing blocks will deform if the block is overloaded.
My West Marine catalog says the following about 2.25" Harken blocks: "Often used for spinnaker halyards and sheets on small offshore boats." Actually, I would expect this is overkill as the 2.25" block is for 7/16" line. The 1 1/2" blocks, such as Harken number 168, are for use with up to 3/8" line.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
CD-25D #141
Breezy
San Diego
ajeske@ixpres.com
Re: Spinnaker halyard block
Tony,
Thanks for the input. I ended up buying a Ronstan 400 series. It has a max work load of 700lbs. and has a nifty feature where it can be set either swivel or fixed at 0 or 90 degrees. I was thinking a swivel would promote spinning the halyard and twisting the sail, but I have no personal experience. Why do you suggest swivel?
djhhan@aol.com
Thanks for the input. I ended up buying a Ronstan 400 series. It has a max work load of 700lbs. and has a nifty feature where it can be set either swivel or fixed at 0 or 90 degrees. I was thinking a swivel would promote spinning the halyard and twisting the sail, but I have no personal experience. Why do you suggest swivel?
Anthony P. Jeske wrote: Dan:
The spinnaker halyard block shold be a swivel block. You'll want all the help you can get out any twists the spinnaker may have when it's raised.
I'm sure you'll get a lot of reaction to the salesman's non-Harken recommendation. I expect what he was trying to say is that the plastic balls inside any brand ball bearing blocks will deform if the block is overloaded.
My West Marine catalog says the following about 2.25" Harken blocks: "Often used for spinnaker halyards and sheets on small offshore boats." Actually, I would expect this is overkill as the 2.25" block is for 7/16" line. The 1 1/2" blocks, such as Harken number 168, are for use with up to 3/8" line.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
CD-25D #141
Breezy
San Diego
djhhan@aol.com
Re: Spinnaker halyard block
The reason you want a swivel is so that the block can align itself properly to the forces on it and work as it was designed. If the block is fixed there will be side forces more or less parallel to the shaft that try to rip the block apart and off whatever it is fastened to. The block was designed to deal with forces nearly perpendicular to the shaft in tension, not shear. To quote Ronstan's catalog, "It is extremely important that the blocks be allowed to align themselves with the resultant load they are subject to, and this must be considered when selecting the block head type and the mounting arrangement." For more see the link below.
Keep on sailing,
Ken Coit
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC
parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com
Keep on sailing,
Ken Coit
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC
Dan Hanlon wrote: Tony,
Thanks for the input. I ended up buying a Ronstan 400 series. It has a max work load of 700lbs. and has a nifty feature where it can be set either swivel or fixed at 0 or 90 degrees. I was thinking a swivel would promote spinning the halyard and twisting the sail, but I have no personal experience. Why do you suggest swivel?
Anthony P. Jeske wrote: Dan:
The spinnaker halyard block shold be a swivel block. You'll want all the help you can get out any twists the spinnaker may have when it's raised.
I'm sure you'll get a lot of reaction to the salesman's non-Harken recommendation. I expect what he was trying to say is that the plastic balls inside any brand ball bearing blocks will deform if the block is overloaded.
My West Marine catalog says the following about 2.25" Harken blocks: "Often used for spinnaker halyards and sheets on small offshore boats." Actually, I would expect this is overkill as the 2.25" block is for 7/16" line. The 1 1/2" blocks, such as Harken number 168, are for use with up to 3/8" line.
Good Luck,
Tony Jeske
CD-25D #141
Breezy
San Diego
parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com