Hurricane (advice requested ahead of time)

[Dennis Truett]

I've recently reviewed some pictures on the wall of my Yacht club depicting hurricane damage. I look out at our (very tight)mooring and say to myself... no wonder. If we do get a notification of a hurricane, I plan to relocate my Cape Dory down river to what we call the "Mud flats"

Does anyone think it would be better on a mooring in a tight field than on an anchor with a long scope? If the anchor would be best, does anyone have any recomendations as to how to anchor it ( 1,2 or 3 anchors, chain instead of rope...)

I was never a Boy scout, but I do beleive in being prepared.

Thanks for any advice!

Dennis Truett
CD26D
"SummerWind"

[Warren Kaplan]

I've recently reviewed some pictures on the wall of my Yacht club depicting hurricane damage. I look out at our (very tight)mooring and say to myself... no wonder. If we do get a notification of a hurricane, I plan to relocate my Cape Dory down river to what we call the "Mud flats"

Does anyone think it would be better on a mooring in a tight field than on an anchor with a long scope? If the anchor would be best, does anyone have any recomendations as to how to anchor it ( 1,2 or 3 anchors, chain instead of rope...)

I was never a Boy scout, but I do beleive in being prepared.

Thanks for any advice!

Dennis Truett
CD26D
"SummerWind"

Dennis,
I think alot depends on what kind of protection your mooring area offers and how good all the moorings are there. My CD27 is in a good sized mooring field and the boats are somewhat closer than I'd like. However, Oyster Bay Harbor (NY) is a pretty well protected harbor and many boats come in there to use it as a "hurricane hole" if they can. Secondly, the town runs the mooring field and EVERY boat there has a mooring bridle (2 pennants rather than one) of heavy line with heavy chafing gear. The town requires EVERY mooring to be pulled EVERY year and inspected and put in tip top shape before it can be put back in the bay, ready for service. So all the hardware on these moorings are in good shape. In my case, I don't think I'd move the boat. Is your area well protected? Are all the moorings in good shape...or is your upwind neighbor's mooring been constantly in the water for 5 years? Makes a difference as to what you might want to do.

Warren Kaplan
Sine Qua Non
CD27
Oyster Bay Harbor, NY



Setsail728@aol.com

[Dana]

I have only been in one at Point Judith, RI. In the water, at the dock but with high surrounding land features (hills). Still no picnic. A tight mooring is as good as the equipment and bottom conditions associated with your boat AND the boats around you. That is ...if the mooring tackle of the boat upwind of you lets go and the boat backs down on your boat/mooring...will your mooring/boat take that? If you look at past mooring damage during such a storm...take a look at Newport, RI. Just a lot of unknowns concerning the mooring..

1. size of the mooring
2. condition of the mooring chain, leader, etc.
3. bottom conditions
4. exposure (the ability to get the boat into a less open area to the wind because the boat is out there.....

So I tend to seek out coves for protection from waves and high land features for wind protection. This can be a marina or anchor. There will be a wind direction change as the storm passes. The boat must be capable of swinging 180 degrees if on anchor and still hold. This eliminates most light weight anchors because the anchor should be able to reset itself (i.e. not a danforth type, etc.) for the bottom conditions. Chafing gear is EXTREMELY important through those chocks. For my experience, the 12 lines which I had on my CD26 wore 1 inch groves into the docks oak sampson posts from the force of the storm. The number one cause of losing a boat on anchor or mooring is CHAFE.



darenius@aol.com

[Warren]

I've recently reviewed some pictures on the wall of my Yacht club depicting hurricane damage. I look out at our (very tight)mooring and say to myself... no wonder. If we do get a notification of a hurricane, I plan to relocate my Cape Dory down river to what we call the "Mud flats"

Does anyone think it would be better on a mooring in a tight field than on an anchor with a long scope? If the anchor would be best, does anyone have any recomendations as to how to anchor it ( 1,2 or 3 anchors, chain instead of rope...)

I was never a Boy scout, but I do beleive in being prepared.

Thanks for any advice!

Dennis Truett
CD26D
"SummerWind"

Dennis,
I think alot depends on what kind of protection your mooring area offers and how good all the moorings are there. My CD27 is in a good sized mooring field and the boats are somewhat closer than I'd like. However, Oyster Bay Harbor (NY) is a pretty well protected harbor and many boats come in there to use it as a "hurricane hole" if they can. Secondly, the town runs the mooring field and EVERY boat there has a mooring bridle (2 pennants rather than one) of heavy line with heavy chafing gear. The town requires EVERY mooring to be pulled EVERY year and inspected and put in tip top shape before it can be put back in the bay, ready for service. So all the hardware on these moorings are in good shape. In my case, I don't think I'd move the boat. Is your area well protected? Are all the moorings in good shape...or is your upwind neighbor's mooring been constantly in the water for 5 years? Makes a difference as to what you might want to do.

Warren Kaplan
Sine Qua Non
CD27
Oyster Bay Harbor, NY

Our field is not protected at all. We're on the Hudson river where it's about a mile wide and no surronding mountains to speak of. All the mooring are pulled each year and inspected by club members. I'm concerned that a boat would drag a mooring under thoes conditions. All the boats are very close together on a good day.

dennis

[ERic]

If you are that exposed, I would try to find a good "hurricane hole" or get hauled if a biggie was coming.

ew

I've recently reviewed some pictures on the wall of my Yacht club depicting hurricane damage. I look out at our (very tight)mooring and say to myself... no wonder. If we do get a notification of a hurricane, I plan to relocate my Cape Dory down river to what we call the "Mud flats"

Does anyone think it would be better on a mooring in a tight field than on an anchor with a long scope? If the anchor would be best, does anyone have any recomendations as to how to anchor it ( 1,2 or 3 anchors, chain instead of rope...)

I was never a Boy scout, but I do beleive in being prepared.

Thanks for any advice!

Dennis Truett
CD26D
"SummerWind"

Dennis,
I think alot depends on what kind of protection your mooring area offers and how good all the moorings are there. My CD27 is in a good sized mooring field and the boats are somewhat closer than I'd like. However, Oyster Bay Harbor (NY) is a pretty well protected harbor and many boats come in there to use it as a "hurricane hole" if they can. Secondly, the town runs the mooring field and EVERY boat there has a mooring bridle (2 pennants rather than one) of heavy line with heavy chafing gear. The town requires EVERY mooring to be pulled EVERY year and inspected and put in tip top shape before it can be put back in the bay, ready for service. So all the hardware on these moorings are in good shape. In my case, I don't think I'd move the boat. Is your area well protected? Are all the moorings in good shape...or is your upwind neighbor's mooring been constantly in the water for 5 years? Makes a difference as to what you might want to do.

Warren Kaplan
Sine Qua Non
CD27
Oyster Bay Harbor, NY

Our field is not protected at all. We're on the Hudson river where it's about a mile wide and no surronding mountains to speak of. All the mooring are pulled each year and inspected by club members. I'm concerned that a boat would drag a mooring under thoes conditions. All the boats are very close together on a good day.

dennis

[Tom G]

It's a tough call, so much depends on your neighbors. Even in your mud flats other boats might break lose and hit yours. An anchor in a hurricane is not a good idea, are there trees you can tie off of in the mud flats?

Have you thought about increasing your life insurance and try riding it out at sea?

T Grant
Ambuscarde
Does anyone think it would be better on a mooring in a tight field than on an anchor with a long scope? If the anchor would be best, does anyone have any recomendations as to how to anchor it ( 1,2 or 3 anchors, chain instead of rope...)

I was never a Boy scout, but I do beleive in being prepared.

Thanks for any advice!

Dennis Truett
CD26D
"SummerWind"

tgrant9008@aol.com

[Gary L.]

Dennis,

I purchased my CD26 in '85, just before hurricane Gloria. I was at Aucoot Cove, just between Marion and Mattapoisett Harbors. While some of the boats in the cove moved to shore and/ or other harbors for protection, I just moved mine from a 300lb mushroom to a 600lb mushroom. It stayed, and the only damage was where the pennant broke a 1' section of my starboard bow rub rail.

Unfortunately, in '91 during hurricane Bob, I remained on the 300lb mooring, but I put out my anchor (30lb danforth) and attached the rode to my mast. While the mooring pennant broke, and the anchor dragged, it kept the boat from the rocks and only cosmetic damage was done, i.e. rubrails and a few bent stanchions.

If you can pull her do so, if not, at least put two anchors out with plenty of scope along with the mooring, take the sails and boom off, make sure your insurance is paid up, and pray.

CD's are stronger than most boats, I lost mine to the bank due to occupational changes, not hurricanes. I often wondered who the lucky guy was to get Mr. Peeps.

Gary Lapine
Red Witch III
CD30C, #339
Somerset, MA




dory26@attbi.com

[John R.]

In 23 yeras of living and dealing with boats on the west coast and SW coast of Florida I can only share with you some observations I've made regarding boats and storm threats and strikes.

I have prepped customers boats and my own so many times for hurricane and tropical storm threats that I don't even care to remember. To do it right is a hell of a lot of hurried work in stifling climatic conditions. Anyone that has prepped a boat properly in tropical conditions knows exactly what I'm talking about.

If it were my boat I would never leave it on the mooring. I would most definitely seek sheltered waters and do it early! I would set as many hooks as possible and use as much chain as possible with lots of scope. Make sure all rodes are equipped with swivels. Use a weighted pennant on the rodes, something like a Roderider or even use a heavy mushroom. Chafe protection and even more chafe protection and even more chafe protection! That point can't be stressed enough! Use old fire hose, it is damn tough and won't burn your lines from friction, use more than one layer if possible. You can get old hose from a fire equipment service company listed in the yellow pages. Other good stuff is tubular webbing like a tow strap that is double thickness. Don't use garden hose or similar, it burns right through and offers little if any protection. Leather (rough hide type)works pretty well also if it is thick, over an 1/8th inch. Make sure there is nothing about the chocks or rail that can damage the line when the boat is heaving and pitching. If you are in a channel or canal run lines in a spider web fashion.

Make sure all your storm gear is heavier than your regular docking and anchoring gear. Use top quality name brand anchors. If you use Danforth anchors use a high tensile version. If you use Fortress use one at the minimum one size larger than what is recommended for your boat (that is true for all these anchors but more so with the Fortress, use more chain with a Fortress). I've seen these anchors damaged in the past in non hurricane conditions. The CQR, Delta, Bruce,HT Danforth and Hereshoff fisherman perform very well. The discontinued Peckny (with mud flukes)also has performed well (it is a spin off of a Northhill). The new Spade anchor looks real good but it hasn't been put to the real world test yet. Bottom type is an issue with any of these anchors. Chain is a huge factor in their holding power. Seize all shackle pins with seizing wire.

Windage is a huge issue on a boat. Take off everything you can. The more stripped it is the better. If you are just going to tie down folded biminis and other stuff then use heavy rope not cording. Remove all sails without question. Have fully charged batteries, perfectly functioning pumps (yes, pumps!). The more pumps you have the better. Use top quality, reliable, non mechanical float switches.......this is very important. Seal all cockpit locker hatch joints with tape. Seal all possible deck openings with tape,Tape non-threaded vent caps in place. I use 3M silver - not duct tape. They also make a 2" wide white rubbery tape that is specifically designed for sealing purposes in storm preparation. It is not cheap either but is easily removed post storm.

If you have an inboard engine plug the exhaust outlet on the hull exterior before leaving the boat. Close all seacocks except your cockpit scuppers and bilge pump outlets. Tie down the boom securely with heavy rope not cording, same goes for any staysail booms. Firmly secure the traveler from moving. Lock the helm on the boat whether it is a tiller or a wheel. Make sure it can't move or come loose.

The rule is: Strip the deck and secure absolutely everything above and below deck. Have fully charged batteries, dependable pumps, plenty of chafe protection, plenty of quality ground tackle and the heavier duty it is the better.

Take everything of value off the boat, show the insurance company you cared! Make sure your insurance is up to date. Notify police or marine patrol where you have anchored your boat for the storm, furnish them a full description.Take plenty of pictures of the prepared boat when you are done.

In your situation take the boat to the mud flats and get as far away from other boats as possible. Run lines to secure points ashore and set as much ground tackle as you have.

Hope this is of some help. It takes a lot of early planning and early gear preperation and hard work to secure a vessel properly. Make sure you are ready. Never ever stay onboard the boat. I know plenty of folks that can tell you that is a huge mistake based on their personal experience. Secure it and get off of it. Give it a hug and get the hell out of there as early as possible.

Good luck this summer!

I've recently reviewed some pictures on the wall of my Yacht club depicting hurricane damage. I look out at our (very tight)mooring and say to myself... no wonder. If we do get a notification of a hurricane, I plan to relocate my Cape Dory down river to what we call the "Mud flats"

Does anyone think it would be better on a mooring in a tight field than on an anchor with a long scope? If the anchor would be best, does anyone have any recomendations as to how to anchor it ( 1,2 or 3 anchors, chain instead of rope...)

I was never a Boy scout, but I do beleive in being prepared.

Thanks for any advice!

Dennis Truett
CD26D
"SummerWind"

[Mike Greenberg]

Consider hauling your boat. Check your insurance policy. Many policies offer to pay part of the cost of hauling.



mikegre1@bellatlantic.net

[Dennis Truett]

Thanks everyone, especially John R for his expert advise. I learned a lot from this and will prepare some additional tackel just in case. Hopefully others will read this.

Thanks Again!!!!

Dennis Truett CD26d
Summerwind

I've recently reviewed some pictures on the wall of my Yacht club depicting hurricane damage. I look out at our (very tight)mooring and say to myself... no wonder. If we do get a notification of a hurricane, I plan to relocate my Cape Dory down river to what we call the "Mud flats"

Does anyone think it would be better on a mooring in a tight field than on an anchor with a long scope? If the anchor would be best, does anyone have any recomendations as to how to anchor it ( 1,2 or 3 anchors, chain instead of rope...)

I was never a Boy scout, but I do beleive in being prepared.

Thanks for any advice!

Dennis Truett
CD26D
"SummerWind"