Where is the best place on the stern to mount the American flag? On the teak or directly on the fiberglass afterdeck? I welcome any advice. Thanks.
Doug Lankow
"Guinnevere"
#1037
dlankow@babson.edu
Typhoon Flag mount
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Joel
Re: Typhoon Flag mount
Having just re-cored the afterdeck on my Typhoon, I would recommend against drilling into the deck unnecessarily. But maybe that's just me.
Joel
Pokey II
'73 Ty #549
Bayside, NY
bondy_joelNOSPAM@hotmail.com
Joel
Pokey II
'73 Ty #549
Bayside, NY
bondy_joelNOSPAM@hotmail.com
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Hal
Re: Typhoon Flag mount
Doug-
There are advantages/disadvantages to mounting in either location. If not properly bedded when mounting to glass, you'll have moisture seepage- in extreem, unattentive situations possibly leading to core rot (see other post this thread). Most flag holders have a little hole at the bottom so as not to serve as a "rain gauge" (if your does not, I'd suggest drilling a hole in the "tube" portion as close to the base as possible) but a certain amount of moisture still congregates in the holder. Mounting on wood/taft rail, the advantage is that you are not drilling into glass but moisture collecting in the holder will have its way with wood a lot sooner than with glass (unless you somehow seal the botton of the tube). My suggestion? Mount it where it makes the most 1)functional sense, and 2)is asthetically pleasing. Proper bedding of the holder in either location (bedding both the base and the screw holes) should not creat any problems.
ficadoor@aol.com
There are advantages/disadvantages to mounting in either location. If not properly bedded when mounting to glass, you'll have moisture seepage- in extreem, unattentive situations possibly leading to core rot (see other post this thread). Most flag holders have a little hole at the bottom so as not to serve as a "rain gauge" (if your does not, I'd suggest drilling a hole in the "tube" portion as close to the base as possible) but a certain amount of moisture still congregates in the holder. Mounting on wood/taft rail, the advantage is that you are not drilling into glass but moisture collecting in the holder will have its way with wood a lot sooner than with glass (unless you somehow seal the botton of the tube). My suggestion? Mount it where it makes the most 1)functional sense, and 2)is asthetically pleasing. Proper bedding of the holder in either location (bedding both the base and the screw holes) should not creat any problems.
Doug Lankow wrote: Where is the best place on the stern to mount the American flag? On the teak or directly on the fiberglass afterdeck? I welcome any advice. Thanks.
Doug Lankow
"Guinnevere"
#1037
ficadoor@aol.com
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bill willis
Re: Typhoon Flag mount
Joel,Joel wrote: Having just re-cored the afterdeck on my Typhoon, I would recommend against drilling into the deck unnecessarily. But maybe that's just me.
Joel
Pokey II
'73 Ty #549
Bayside, NY
I am thinking of re-coring the aft deck on my ty. Could you give me some pointers? I know how to work with fiberglass/epoxy etc., what I'm interested in is where you cut into the deck; how or if you matched the repair cuts to original gel-coat; can cuts be made that are hidden under aft teak? I was also considering- maybe- installing a traveler...maybe traveler track could hide the repaired cut. Or, did you paint to cover over repairs?
A traveler would mean a new main sheet block system? Do you know if anyone has done this? (i.e. replace the original mainsheet blocks that are attached to the aft deck)
Any input from your experience/knowledge would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Bill
Typhoon #1030
wawillis@toad.net
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rodney devine
Re: Typhoon Flag mount
Why not fly the colors off the backstay?! I see several other Typhoons with flags so flown..I would go up one size from the "proper" size..
rodney devine
s/v Mischief
Ty 335
seaweed@snet.net
rodney devine
s/v Mischief
Ty 335
Doug Lankow wrote: Where is the best place on the stern to mount the American flag? On the teak or directly on the fiberglass afterdeck? I welcome any advice. Thanks.
Doug Lankow
"Guinnevere"
#1037
seaweed@snet.net
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Doug Lankow
Re: Typhoon Flag mount
I like the backstay idea...what do you recommend I use to hold the flag up on the stay?
dlankow@babson.edu
Why not fly the colors off the backstay?! I see several other Typhoons with flags so flown..I would go up one size from the "proper" size..rodney devine wrote:
rodney devine wrote: rodney devine
s/v Mischief
Ty 335
Doug Lankow wrote: Where is the best place on the stern to mount the American flag? On the teak or directly on the fiberglass afterdeck? I welcome any advice. Thanks.
Doug Lankow
"Guinnevere"
#1037
dlankow@babson.edu
-
Robert
Re: Typhoon Flag mount
/Doug,
Both BoatUS and West Marine offer 'Flag Tenders'. We tried one on our TY and it works great.
Cheers,
Robert
#691
rjoohn12@midsouth.rr.com
Both BoatUS and West Marine offer 'Flag Tenders'. We tried one on our TY and it works great.
Cheers,
Robert
#691
rjoohn12@midsouth.rr.com
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rodney devine
Re: Typhoon Flag mount
Ahoy Doug,
West and BoatUS sell flag attachment kits with plastic snaps that attach to the flag grommets and to the backstay..The kits also have plastic sleeves which go on the backstay and prevent the flag from going up or down..Just be sure you really tighten the snaps together so you do not have to practise a flag overboard and recovery drill!!
rodney
seaweed@snet.net
West and BoatUS sell flag attachment kits with plastic snaps that attach to the flag grommets and to the backstay..The kits also have plastic sleeves which go on the backstay and prevent the flag from going up or down..Just be sure you really tighten the snaps together so you do not have to practise a flag overboard and recovery drill!!
rodney
Doug Lankow wrote: I like the backstay idea...what do you recommend I use to hold the flag up on the stay?
Why not fly the colors off the backstay?! I see several other Typhoons with flags so flown..I would go up one size from the "proper" size..rodney devine wrote:rodney devine wrote: rodney devine
s/v Mischief
Ty 335
Doug Lankow wrote: Where is the best place on the stern to mount the American flag? On the teak or directly on the fiberglass afterdeck? I welcome any advice. Thanks.
Doug Lankow
"Guinnevere"
#1037
seaweed@snet.net
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John H.
redoing back deck
This is not as daunting a task as you think. Concealing the scars or patch areas is easy with epoxy with filler, or gel coat. The hard part is replacing the core and grinding the glass.
When I did it, I brashly used a router with a 1/2" bit set to cut through the top glass and the balsa (rotten) but not through the lower glass layer. I used the combing aft of cockpit, and the toe rails as a guide for the router. Then I was able to peel off the top glass in one piece. I basically scooped out the balsa syrup, and chipped off the few intact pieces. The hardest part was removing the intact balsa at the edges of my cut. In some places it was rotten beyond where I had cut, and I cleaned these out also. I replaced the coring with a 4mm sheet of sapele plywood that I cut to fit as closely as possible, filling in some of the gaps with small pieces of glass mat. I didn't have any more ply, so I then built up above the wood to get even with the glass around the edges. This seemed easier than replacing the old glass and carefully patching the seam, although this technique probably took longer and cost more. (Beveled with a coarse sanding disc on the electric drill. I didn't coat with gelcoat because it sounded too hard. Instead I used more West epoxy with fairing filler and got a very nice smooth result. You really cannot tell it was repaired.
There are some old posts about placing a traveller. There is a nice one for small boats from Harken, and a classic bronze Herreshoff style from Bristol bronze.
Good Luck, JH
jhalpo@rcn.com
When I did it, I brashly used a router with a 1/2" bit set to cut through the top glass and the balsa (rotten) but not through the lower glass layer. I used the combing aft of cockpit, and the toe rails as a guide for the router. Then I was able to peel off the top glass in one piece. I basically scooped out the balsa syrup, and chipped off the few intact pieces. The hardest part was removing the intact balsa at the edges of my cut. In some places it was rotten beyond where I had cut, and I cleaned these out also. I replaced the coring with a 4mm sheet of sapele plywood that I cut to fit as closely as possible, filling in some of the gaps with small pieces of glass mat. I didn't have any more ply, so I then built up above the wood to get even with the glass around the edges. This seemed easier than replacing the old glass and carefully patching the seam, although this technique probably took longer and cost more. (Beveled with a coarse sanding disc on the electric drill. I didn't coat with gelcoat because it sounded too hard. Instead I used more West epoxy with fairing filler and got a very nice smooth result. You really cannot tell it was repaired.
There are some old posts about placing a traveller. There is a nice one for small boats from Harken, and a classic bronze Herreshoff style from Bristol bronze.
Good Luck, JH
jhalpo@rcn.com