typhoon gatevalve replacement

[bill willis]

I just purchased a '75 typhoon (sold my CD25 two weeks age) and was looking at the original gate valves for the scuppers. I know when I replaced the gate valves on the CD25 the seacocks were larger and it was a tight fit. Seems the fit is even tighter in the '75 typhoon. I would like to replace the gate valves before I launch her. Has anyone out there done this? What did you use, ball valves or seacocks (Spartan). Was there room to install a wood base under the seacocks? Did you have a problem getting the larger (?) seacocks or ball valves installed? It looks like a real tight area to work in. Any info, suggestions or pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Bill Willis
typhoon #1030 Merlin (soon to be renamed Sadie II)



wawillis@toad.net

[Bill Bloxham]

Hi Bill
Lots of info and contraversey(sp?) at the archives. search "typhoon valve"
There is no clear one-size-fits-all answer, but you will have the information to make an informed decision.
Have fun
Bill



mmmmmmbill@earthlink.net

[Dick W.]

I just purchased a '75 typhoon (sold my CD25 two weeks age) and was looking at the original gate valves for the scuppers. I know when I replaced the gate valves on the CD25 the seacocks were larger and it was a tight fit. Seems the fit is even tighter in the '75 typhoon. I would like to replace the gate valves before I launch her. Has anyone out there done this? What did you use, ball valves or seacocks (Spartan). Was there room to install a wood base under the seacocks? Did you have a problem getting the larger (?) seacocks or ball valves installed? It looks like a real tight area to work in. Any info, suggestions or pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Bill Willis
typhoon #1030 Merlin (soon to be renamed Sadie II)

Bill: I won't get into the ball vs. gate valve discussion; that has been well covered on this board. However, the seacocks on my '73 Typhoon seemed hopelessly frozen open after many years of neglect (mine!). I wanted to get into the water soon, if I could get them functioning. Here is what I did: I pumped some penetrating oil into them by snaking some thin plastic tubing down (like model airplane fuel hose) the scupper drains. Then I gently tapped each one with a hammer. After 15 minutes, the first one freed up and was fully functional. The second one took 90 minutes with a little vise-grip convincing on the wheel handle. It too is now working fine. Only problem is the wheel handle self destructed. Had to fiddle with some small Nibco handles to replace it. My brother-in-law is a plumber and is checking on getting an exact handle replacement (will let you know). OK, so I got them to work and maybe some day I'll do a nice ball valve/thru-hull replacement; but, for now it's better than what I had. I will be working them periodically! Hope this was helpfull.
Dick W.
Typhoon #542 Seerauber