More Chain Locker Drain

[Bill Armstrong]

Before I purchased my 28CD (1975, #50) I inspected the chain locker. Aside from some cosmetics, it is in good condition. It does drain to the bilge in one fluid motion. I thought all CDs drained this way.
My assumption was that one would have to check the bilge more regularly after anchoring or rough weather sailing. Also,there is no
terminal (rebar?) for the bitter end of the anchor. There is an 18" by 1" dowel that was used before. Again, I thought this was the norm.
I really need to get to see one (1) CD 28 before I begin sailing to check out what is right! Am I OK with either of these setups? Thanks Bill.



meislandbill@yahoo.com

[Catherine Monaghan]

Bill,

The anchor lockers for the smaller CDs drain into the bilge. The larger models (CD33 and larger) drain overboard.

You may want to install a large padeye or U-bolt with backing plate to secure the bitter end of the anchor rode.

Cathy
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

Before I purchased my 28CD (1975, #50) I inspected the chain locker. Aside from some cosmetics, it is in good condition. It does drain to the bilge in one fluid motion. I thought all CDs drained this way.
My assumption was that one would have to check the bilge more regularly after anchoring or rough weather sailing. Also,there is no
terminal (rebar?) for the bitter end of the anchor. There is an 18" by 1" dowel that was used before. Again, I thought this was the norm.
I really need to get to see one (1) CD 28 before I begin sailing to check out what is right! Am I OK with either of these setups? Thanks Bill.

catherine_monaghanNOSPAM@merck.com

[Randy Batesr]

Bill,

The anchor lockers for the smaller CDs drain into the bilge. The larger models (CD33 and larger) drain overboard.

You may want to install a large padeye or U-bolt with backing plate to secure the bitter end of the anchor rode.

Cathy
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

Before I purchased my 28CD (1975, #50) I inspected the chain locker. Aside from some cosmetics, it is in good condition. It does drain to the bilge in one fluid motion. I thought all CDs drained this way.
My assumption was that one would have to check the bilge more regularly after anchoring or rough weather sailing. Also,there is no
terminal (rebar?) for the bitter end of the anchor. There is an 18" by 1" dowel that was used before. Again, I thought this was the norm.
I really need to get to see one (1) CD 28 before I begin sailing to check out what is right! Am I OK with either of these setups? Thanks Bill.

For what it's worth "Seraph" 1984 CD25D #161 has the chain locker draining overboard via a hole in the stem.



randy.bates@baesystems.com

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

Captain Monaghan and Bill,

Somethiing easier than going through installing a pad eye to tie off the rode, is to cut a 4" (approx) disc of 1/8" sheet fiberglass, drill an appropriate sized hole to accept the rode in the center of the disc. Pass the rode through the hawse pipe, reach into the chain locker from the "V" berth, pass the rode through the hole in the disc and tie it off with a proper figure "8" stopper knot. Now, if you ever accidentally slip your anchor cable, the disc will pull up short under the deck at the hawse pipe, and you ARE again anchored! Works like a charm and is easy to remove to take the anchor off her at the end of the season.......FWIW........your servant.........

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30C
CDSOA Number ONE ! ! !

[Ed Haley]

eghaleyNOSPAM@twcny.rr.com

[Leo MacDonald CD33]

Hi Bill,

My 77 CD30K, 'Heather Ann', had a flush mounted rode drain fitting on the floor of the rode locked. The under side of this fitting connected to 'Tygon tubing' (clear tubing) that ended under the shower drain grill in the head (from wince it drained to the boat's main bilge. (Also, the rode locker was not sealed off from the boat interior.) We never had excess water in the bilge from heavy weather or post anchoring.

On 'Evening Light', CD33, the rode locker is sealed off from the boat's interior and a small drain hole (~3/8 - 7/16 in. exits the locker at the forward lower centerline point a foot or so above the waterline. 'Evening Light' however, had excess water in the bilge from heavy weather! Go figure??

As to termination of the rode's bitter end; The dowel in fine, kind of long, but fine. If you slip your rode by accident it will hold, unless the entire deck from the coach roof end to the bow rips out and that probably won't happen.

FWIW: There is a school of thought that you terminate the rode with a 6 ft. piece of small stuff (1/4 - 3/8 in. - something you can cut through fast) and then the small stuff's bitter end is attached to the dowel. If you have to get underway quickly (for whatever reason in extreme conditions) you slip your rode by attaching a fender to the rode and cutting the small stuff, leaving anchor & rode on the bottom. That's how 'Heather Ann' was rigged and, as soon as I get that far down 'The LIST', Evening Light will be rigged

Number One can probably quote historical references. (Hey Dave?)

Fair Winds,
Leo MacDonald
'Evening Light' CD33 #38
Homeport; Groton, CT



macdoreNOSPAM@aol.com

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

Captain Haley,

No, I wasn't kiddin'. The only problem I can see with the disk, Leo alluded to above. You would find it dificult to slip your cable in a blow if need be. You would have to untie the knot! But, Hanalei's rode is currently fixed just as I described. Always has been, and we haven't had a problem with it.

Why do you ask if I was joking????

D. Stump, Hanalei

[Joe Sankey]

Dave's method is one I've used a number times as have others around our parts. It was interesting when we acquired Slow Dance to see that the previous owner had placed a Schaefer padeye on two of the bolts holding the jib boom bracket; perfect distance for the holes. The bitter end is tied to that padeye, which makes for a neat installation. I'll measure and check the part numbers if that would be helpful. It should work on a 28, anyway.
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance
Magnolia Springs, AL

Captain Haley,

No, I wasn't kiddin'. The only problem I can see with the disk, Leo alluded to above. You would find it dificult to slip your cable in a blow if need be. You would have to untie the knot! But, Hanalei's rode is currently fixed just as I described. Always has been, and we haven't had a problem with it.

Why do you ask if I was joking????

D. Stump, Hanalei

sankey@gulftel.com

[BobM]

Bill,

The anchor lockers for the smaller CDs drain into the bilge. The larger models (CD33 and larger) drain overboard.

You may want to install a large padeye or U-bolt with backing plate to secure the bitter end of the anchor rode.

Cathy
CD32 <a href="http://www.hometown.aol.com/bcomet/real ... ization</a>, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay

Regarding your statement "The anchor lockers for the smaller CDs drain into the bilge."

This is not the case for all CD25D's and possibly the CD270 also, which have separate anchor lockers that are accessed through a deck hatch forward and drain at the base of the locker overboard a foot or so above the waterline. The early CD33's have the same type of locker configuration, however this was removed from the design on the CD330 from 1985 onward until production ceased on the CD330. CD models that have the anchor locker access through the deck hatch forward are easily indentified by the configuration of the cleats at the bow, which are positioned on either side of the hatch forward close to the toe rails. CD models without the anchor locker deck hatch have their cleats located on centerline at the bow. This generally holds true for all CD28's, CD30's, CD330's and CD36's, because of their cutter rig design, which makes it very hard to fit a deck hatch forward.


BobM
Ranger #144
CD25D 1984



ranger1442@hotmail.com

[Ken Coit]

Bob,

I'm not sure about all 36s, but Parfait has two bow cleats, one either side of the centerline.


Keep on sailing,

Ken Coit
CD/14 #538
CD/36 #84 Parfait
Hailing Port: Raleigh, NC
Sailing from: Beaufort, NC



parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com

[Ed Haley]

I guess you learn something every day!. I would have thought that the 1/8 inch plexiglass or fiberglass would shatter or crack if it was suddenly slammed against the hause hole. At any rate, I'd prefer something more secure than having the bitter end of my anchor rode free (sort of).

Ed Haley
s/v Mokita
CD 330 #1
Locked on the Erie (Still)



eghaleyNOSPAM@twcny.rr.com

[Joe Sankey]

Ed, usually we used 1/2" marine plywood, or thicker. 1/8" might be fine if you use fiberglass; the idea just works as a backing plate against the deck.

I guess you learn something every day!. I would have thought that the 1/8 inch plexiglass or fiberglass would shatter or crack if it was suddenly slammed against the hause hole. At any rate, I'd prefer something more secure than having the bitter end of my anchor rode free (sort of).

Ed Haley
s/v Mokita
CD 330 #1
Locked on the Erie (Still)

sankey@gulftel.com

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

Ed,

No, I did NOT say plexiglas! The disc is fiberglass, much stronger than plexiglass.....

D. Stump
Hanalei