After 23 years, the forward Bomar hatch on my CD28 could use replacement. However, new Bomar hatches of identical design (cast aluminum) cost about $670.00! IMHO this is piracy. Plus, the original was painted buff and now they are available only in black or white. Is there a stainless steel or extruded aluminum hatch that is a drop-in (or near drop-in) replacement?
smwheatley@capecod.net
Substitute for cast aluminum Bomar hatches
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Clay Stalker
Re: Substitute for cast aluminum Bomar hatches
Stan:Stan W. wrote: After 23 years, the forward Bomar hatch on my CD28 could use replacement. However, new Bomar hatches of identical design (cast aluminum) cost about $670.00! IMHO this is piracy. Plus, the original was painted buff and now they are available only in black or white. Is there a stainless steel or extruded aluminum hatch that is a drop-in (or near drop-in) replacement?
I replaced a forward hatch in my former boat, a Quickstep 24 with one made by Lewmar...a pretty good hatch overall, but nowhere near as rugged as the Bomar one on my CD27....the Lewmar cost around $350, so half the price of the Bomar...but simply not the hatch...I think you will get what you pay for even if Bomars are a bit pricey...actually, everything marine related is too damn expensive. Shop carefully, because there are a real bear to install....the same size Bomar in white or black (preferably white) would look great on your boat!
Clay Stalker
CD27 Salsa #247
Bristol, R.I.
cstalker@cheshire.net
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Chris Scheck
Bomars are Bummers!
Oh, has anything on Ragtime caused me as much pain as my Bomar hatch!
Many years ago, I tried to remove the stainless bolt that holds the prop strut for the hatch. Of course it wouldn't come out and I turned it so hard it broke off flush with the boss in the casting. Using a stainless bolt in an aluminum casting strikes me as just about the poorest idea I've seen in the marine industry. The only good thing Bomar did was use two struts so after you break the first one you still have one left!
I know how to drill out a broken bolt on an old car, but drilling stainless will be more difficult, I'm sure. Has anyone done this with much success? Please let me know any tips you have for how to go about it. Also, what about repainting? What kind of primer and paint works best? Many thanks.
Chris Scheck
RAGTIME CD33 #117
Newport RI
cscheck@aol.com
Many years ago, I tried to remove the stainless bolt that holds the prop strut for the hatch. Of course it wouldn't come out and I turned it so hard it broke off flush with the boss in the casting. Using a stainless bolt in an aluminum casting strikes me as just about the poorest idea I've seen in the marine industry. The only good thing Bomar did was use two struts so after you break the first one you still have one left!
I know how to drill out a broken bolt on an old car, but drilling stainless will be more difficult, I'm sure. Has anyone done this with much success? Please let me know any tips you have for how to go about it. Also, what about repainting? What kind of primer and paint works best? Many thanks.
Chris Scheck
RAGTIME CD33 #117
Newport RI
cscheck@aol.com
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Ken Coit
Me Too! Can't Wait for this Answer!! (n/m)
Chris Scheck wrote:
Oh, has anything on Ragtime caused me as much pain as my Bomar hatch!
Many years ago, I tried to remove the stainless bolt that holds the prop strut for the hatch. Of course it wouldn't come out and I turned it so hard it broke off flush with the boss in the casting. Using a stainless bolt in an aluminum casting strikes me as just about the poorest idea I've seen in the marine industry. The only good thing Bomar did was use two struts so after you break the first one you still have one left!
I know how to drill out a broken bolt on an old car, but drilling stainless will be more difficult, I'm sure. Has anyone done this with much success? Please let me know any tips you have for how to go about it. Also, what about repainting? What kind of primer and paint works best? Many thanks.
Chris Scheck
RAGTIME CD33 #117
Newport RI
parfaitNOSPAM@nc.rr.com
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Joe Sankey
Re: Bomars are Bummers!
Chris, I have done the job you're involved in, and while not easy, it got done. You'll need cobalt or some other bit made for stainless, and a tool I call an EZ out, which might remove the threads. My guess is you'll have to drill twice; once to get a pilot hole, and again to enlarge it. Once you have removed enough of the bolt center, the balance may come away from the threads. I recall (mine was several years ago) that I had to tap out the hole again. I'd at least try a pentrating oil soak, also, to see if it would dissolve some of th e corrosion prior to trying to remove the residue. You'll also want to coat the new bolt with an anti-seize compound before replacing. As for painting, special primers are needed for bare aluminium. I painted a Bomar with Interlux Brighside to match a new white hatch added to the boat, and it lasted pretty well. I was going over old paint, however. Good luck.
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance
Magnolia Springs, AL
sankey@gulftel.com
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance
Magnolia Springs, AL
Chris Scheck wrote:
Oh, has anything on Ragtime caused me as much pain as my Bomar hatch!
Many years ago, I tried to remove the stainless bolt that holds the prop strut for the hatch. Of course it wouldn't come out and I turned it so hard it broke off flush with the boss in the casting. Using a stainless bolt in an aluminum casting strikes me as just about the poorest idea I've seen in the marine industry. The only good thing Bomar did was use two struts so after you break the first one you still have one left!
I know how to drill out a broken bolt on an old car, but drilling stainless will be more difficult, I'm sure. Has anyone done this with much success? Please let me know any tips you have for how to go about it. Also, what about repainting? What kind of primer and paint works best? Many thanks.
Chris Scheck
RAGTIME CD33 #117
Newport RI
sankey@gulftel.com
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Refinishing aluminium.........pedestal base.....
Captains,
A little off topic for this thread, but I just recently refinished the pedestal base on Hanalei. It was chipping real ugly! Bought a round abrasive disc from Home Depot that looks like a real agressive scotch brite bad and chucked it in a drill to remove the old finish. It took it down to bright metal in less than an hour. Then I primed the bare aluminium with 2 coats of Rustoleum "Clear Metal Primer"(not the original fish oil red primer, it will blead through the final finish, and is designed for rusty surfaces only), and sprayed on three coats of Rustoleum Satin finish white. The thing looks like NEW!!!
Yes, I did contact Edson for their refinishing instructions, can get them right off the net, but it is too complicated, and is difficult to do.
Don't know how long the Rustoleum will last but if it is 3 or 4 years - well, OK...........FWIW...........
D. Stump, Hanalei
A little off topic for this thread, but I just recently refinished the pedestal base on Hanalei. It was chipping real ugly! Bought a round abrasive disc from Home Depot that looks like a real agressive scotch brite bad and chucked it in a drill to remove the old finish. It took it down to bright metal in less than an hour. Then I primed the bare aluminium with 2 coats of Rustoleum "Clear Metal Primer"(not the original fish oil red primer, it will blead through the final finish, and is designed for rusty surfaces only), and sprayed on three coats of Rustoleum Satin finish white. The thing looks like NEW!!!
Yes, I did contact Edson for their refinishing instructions, can get them right off the net, but it is too complicated, and is difficult to do.
Don't know how long the Rustoleum will last but if it is 3 or 4 years - well, OK...........FWIW...........
D. Stump, Hanalei
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Refinishing aluminium.........pedestal base.....
Captains,
A little off topic for this thread, but I just recently refinished the pedestal base on Hanalei. It was chipping real ugly! Bought a round abrasive disc from Home Depot that looks like a real agressive scotch brite bad and chucked it in a drill to remove the old finish. It took it down to bright metal in less than an hour. Then I primed the bare aluminium with 2 coats of Rustoleum "Clear Metal Primer"(not the original fish oil red primer, it will blead through the final finish, and is designed for rusty surfaces only), and sprayed on three coats of Rustoleum Satin finish white. The thing looks like NEW!!!
Yes, I did contact Edson for their refinishing instructions, can get them right off the net, but it is too complicated, and is difficult to do.
Don't know how long the Rustoleum will last but if it is 3 or 4 years - well, OK...........FWIW...........
D. Stump, Hanalei
A little off topic for this thread, but I just recently refinished the pedestal base on Hanalei. It was chipping real ugly! Bought a round abrasive disc from Home Depot that looks like a real agressive scotch brite bad and chucked it in a drill to remove the old finish. It took it down to bright metal in less than an hour. Then I primed the bare aluminium with 2 coats of Rustoleum "Clear Metal Primer"(not the original fish oil red primer, it will blead through the final finish, and is designed for rusty surfaces only), and sprayed on three coats of Rustoleum Satin finish white. The thing looks like NEW!!!
Yes, I did contact Edson for their refinishing instructions, can get them right off the net, but it is too complicated, and is difficult to do.
Don't know how long the Rustoleum will last but if it is 3 or 4 years - well, OK...........FWIW...........
D. Stump, Hanalei
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John R.
Re: Bomars are Bummers!
Joe is on the mark. I agree that is the correct approach. I would try good penetrating lubricants for many days such as PB Blaster or Corrosion X. I would refinish the hatch one of two ways. Either use a two part linear polyurethane with an aluminum etch precoat process or have it powder coated. If you use a single part paint like Brightsides or similar make sure you use *zinc chromate* primer (not zinc phosphate). You should bead blast the hatch frame prior to any recoating.
No matter what, you have to remove the plexi to powder coat and it would be wise to remove it even if you just paint to be certain you get the paint edge below the plexi seal. The critical thing is to make sure you use marine grade anti-seize on the bolt and hatch threads.
The only problem with many hatches is that they never used the anti-seize. The Bomars are great hatches.
No matter what, you have to remove the plexi to powder coat and it would be wise to remove it even if you just paint to be certain you get the paint edge below the plexi seal. The critical thing is to make sure you use marine grade anti-seize on the bolt and hatch threads.
The only problem with many hatches is that they never used the anti-seize. The Bomars are great hatches.
Joe Sankey wrote: Chris, I have done the job you're involved in, and while not easy, it got done. You'll need cobalt or some other bit made for stainless, and a tool I call an EZ out, which might remove the threads. My guess is you'll have to drill twice; once to get a pilot hole, and again to enlarge it. Once you have removed enough of the bolt center, the balance may come away from the threads. I recall (mine was several years ago) that I had to tap out the hole again. I'd at least try a pentrating oil soak, also, to see if it would dissolve some of th e corrosion prior to trying to remove the residue. You'll also want to coat the new bolt with an anti-seize compound before replacing. As for painting, special primers are needed for bare aluminium. I painted a Bomar with Interlux Brighside to match a new white hatch added to the boat, and it lasted pretty well. I was going over old paint, however. Good luck.
Joe Sankey
CD 30 Slow Dance
Magnolia Springs, ALChris Scheck wrote:
Oh, has anything on Ragtime caused me as much pain as my Bomar hatch!
Many years ago, I tried to remove the stainless bolt that holds the prop strut for the hatch. Of course it wouldn't come out and I turned it so hard it broke off flush with the boss in the casting. Using a stainless bolt in an aluminum casting strikes me as just about the poorest idea I've seen in the marine industry. The only good thing Bomar did was use two struts so after you break the first one you still have one left!
I know how to drill out a broken bolt on an old car, but drilling stainless will be more difficult, I'm sure. Has anyone done this with much success? Please let me know any tips you have for how to go about it. Also, what about repainting? What kind of primer and paint works best? Many thanks.
Chris Scheck
RAGTIME CD33 #117
Newport RI
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Boyd
Re: Refinishing aluminium.........pedestal base.....
Hi Dave...
For what its worth I did the same thing to a mast on my former Hunter. Rustoleum lasts a long time. I found that it chaulked a little but using a good carwax/cleaner brought it right back. It still looked good after 5 years.
Boyd
Boyd@wbta.cc
For what its worth I did the same thing to a mast on my former Hunter. Rustoleum lasts a long time. I found that it chaulked a little but using a good carwax/cleaner brought it right back. It still looked good after 5 years.
Boyd
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Captains,
A little off topic for this thread, but I just recently refinished the pedestal base on Hanalei. It was chipping real ugly! Bought a round abrasive disc from Home Depot that looks like a real agressive scotch brite bad and chucked it in a drill to remove the old finish. It took it down to bright metal in less than an hour. Then I primed the bare aluminium with 2 coats of Rustoleum "Clear Metal Primer"(not the original fish oil red primer, it will blead through the final finish, and is designed for rusty surfaces only), and sprayed on three coats of Rustoleum Satin finish white. The thing looks like NEW!!!
Yes, I did contact Edson for their refinishing instructions, can get them right off the net, but it is too complicated, and is difficult to do.
Don't know how long the Rustoleum will last but if it is 3 or 4 years - well, OK...........FWIW...........
D. Stump, Hanalei
Boyd@wbta.cc
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Stan W.
Good news/bad news.
The good news: found out Defender sells them for $600.00 (still piracy, but seventy bucks is seventy bucks). The bad news: white ones are special order and take weeks to get. Hasn't anyone updated from these dinosaurs?
smwheatley@capecod.net
smwheatley@capecod.net
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Jeff Funston
Re: Bomars are Bummers!
One additional comment, You can obtain extractor kits, snapon makes one that include the 5 standard extractors AND intresting enough 5 reverse flute bits ( the correct size for each extractor!). I have found many of the broken screws I have had to remove back right out with the bits alone, use the smallest one first and then the next size up.
jefffNospam@pinn.net
jefffNospam@pinn.net