Rachet block on furling line

[Jerry Axler]

Anyone have experience with a rachet block on the roller furling line? I want to put a rachet block on the furking line to prevent overwraps and I was wondering if it would work. I've been having difficulty with my furlex furler in moderate to heavy weather conditions and I would like to prevent further trouble.

Jerry Axler
Shana CD36



cutter36@erols.com

[Andy Denmark]

Hi Jerry,

When I was with Haarstick Sails we always recommended a Harken rail- mounted Hexaratchet block (with an integral cleat) to be mounted on the stern rail for furling lines. The reasons are numerous and obvious: the ratchet mechanism takes 90% of the strain off the line, the angle is much easier to work with because you can put your legs and back into the task if it gets hard to pull, and you get a better lead to a winch if things really get tough. It's important to put the ratchet block/cleat on the stern rail so the line leads back nearly 180 degrees so the ratchet will be effective. Another important factor with this system is to position the forwardmost lead block so the furling line leads at exactly 90 degrees to the axis of the furling drum. One more -- always use a halyard retainer at the masthead. Along with the newer roller blocks at the stanchions the ratchet block makes a much easier and practical system.

The folks that followed this plan almost never had furler line trouble.

FWIW

Andy Denmark
CD-27 "Rhiannon"
Oriental, NC





trekker@coastalnet.com

[Warren Kaplan]

Hi Jerry,

When I was with Haarstick Sails we always recommended a Harken rail- mounted Hexaratchet block (with an integral cleat) to be mounted on the stern rail for furling lines. The reasons are numerous and obvious: the ratchet mechanism takes 90% of the strain off the line, the angle is much easier to work with because you can put your legs and back into the task if it gets hard to pull, and you get a better lead to a winch if things really get tough. It's important to put the ratchet block/cleat on the stern rail so the line leads back nearly 180 degrees so the ratchet will be effective. Another important factor with this system is to position the forwardmost lead block so the furling line leads at exactly 90 degrees to the axis of the furling drum. One more -- always use a halyard retainer at the masthead. Along with the newer roller blocks at the stanchions the ratchet block makes a much easier and practical system.

The folks that followed this plan almost never had furler line trouble.

FWIW

Andy Denmark
CD-27 "Rhiannon"
Oriental, NC

Andy,
This suggestion interests me since I had only one override on my furlex last year...but it was a doozy! My fault. For some reason I kept no tension on the furling line that time when unfurling the genny and I paid the price when it was time to furl it. Anyway, my furling line runs down the port side of the boat, thru blocks attached low down on the port side stanchions. It ends with a little cleat along side the cockpit on the port side. If I understand you correctly, a hexarachet block should be attached to the stern rail. I take it that the block would be attched also low down on the aft most corner stanchion of that bow rail and then led back to the cockpit (if necessary). Any particular hexarachet block you recommend for a CD27?
Thanks,
Warren Kaplan
Sine Qua Non
CD27
Oyster Bay Harbor, NY




Setsail728@aol.com

[John MacArthur]

Anyone have experience with a rachet block on the roller furling line?

On the recommendation of the Furlex dealer,I put one on a pad-eye outboard of the coaming and just behind the winch on my 30C. This way I can handle the furling line and either sheet from just in front of the wheel. This is one of the better, simpler fixes of a problem area that I have come across.

John MacArthur
CD 30C "Stork"
Taos, NM
Just back from the Sea of Cortez



jmac@laplaza.org

[John Nuttall]

.........with stanchion mount base, and integral cams. Your lead probably isn't any bigger than 7/16 so a bigger block isn't needed.

Schaeffer makes some very nice lead rollers that go around the stanchions, keeping the line outboard and up off the deck (no sagging blocks). Schaeffer also makes nice adjustable fairleads for getting the 90 deg lead-in at the bow.

Johnson also makes adjustable fairleads, but their construction is a little "rough" compared to Schaeffer and Harken.

Let me just say here that I have this exact set-up on my CD31 (gee wonder where I got the idea...LOL). It works like a dream !!! Andy's arrangement is "spot on" and worth every extra penny for the Hexarachet and lead blocks.

Going Sailing today for 4 days. Get to check out my new Dutchman and Strong track. I feel like a little kid...hehehe....new toys... ;-]

John
s/v Aimless
CD31 #28
s/v Wanderer (???)
CD10 #???
Oriental, NC