I want to touch up some peeling spots on the varish of cockpit coaming before launch. Has anyone tried the Epifanes varnishes? There are a bewildering series of products: clear varinish, wood finish gloss, and rapidcoat among them. Any stories of success or failure are welcomed.
Thanks in advance.
joels@ids.net
Seek feedback on Epifanes varnishes
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Kevin Mulligan
Re: Seek feedback on Epifanes varnishes
Joel:
I used an Epifane Varnish (or is it Epivane?) varnish on a new teak and holly sole I installed on my CD 28 about six months ago. I put down three coats with light sanding in between and it looks great. The boatyard guy who recommended it swears by it. It seems to be a nice hard finish and it's only flaw is when a winch handle fell down the steps and made a dent. Like the first scratch in a new car, I'm glad it's over with. The previous owner used Cetol on the exterior teak and I plan to keep using it as it holds up very well. I can't speak for the Epifane on exterior wood but I'm sure it'll hold up as well as any varnish, tho' you will need to repeat every year.
Kevin Mulligan
CD 28 "Skibbereen" #226
kmulligan@yahoo.com
I used an Epifane Varnish (or is it Epivane?) varnish on a new teak and holly sole I installed on my CD 28 about six months ago. I put down three coats with light sanding in between and it looks great. The boatyard guy who recommended it swears by it. It seems to be a nice hard finish and it's only flaw is when a winch handle fell down the steps and made a dent. Like the first scratch in a new car, I'm glad it's over with. The previous owner used Cetol on the exterior teak and I plan to keep using it as it holds up very well. I can't speak for the Epifane on exterior wood but I'm sure it'll hold up as well as any varnish, tho' you will need to repeat every year.
Kevin Mulligan
CD 28 "Skibbereen" #226
Joel Silverberg wrote: I want to touch up some peeling spots on the varish of cockpit coaming before launch. Has anyone tried the Epifanes varnishes? There are a bewildering series of products: clear varinish, wood finish gloss, and rapidcoat among them. Any stories of success or failure are welcomed.
Thanks in advance.
kmulligan@yahoo.com
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charlie palumbo
Re: Seek feedback on Epifanes varnishes
Joel,Joel Silverberg wrote: I want to touch up some peeling spots on the varish of cockpit coaming before launch. Has anyone tried the Epifanes varnishes? There are a bewildering series of products: clear varinish, wood finish gloss, and rapidcoat among them. Any stories of success or failure are welcomed.
Thanks in advance.
The real truth of the matter is that everyone would love a finished high gloss varnish look on their yacht, but a precious few are willing to do the work it entails. Epiphanes is an excellent varnish.
The gloss is excellent. Alike everything else on a boat, the key is in the prep work. Sandpaper, kneepads, patience and dedication are a must. Old weathered coats must be removed to get a good finish.
Sand with eighty, then sand with 150, first coat should be lightly thinned with interlux 333. Varnish should be slightly thinned when weather is boredrline hot/ windy, otherwise ideal 65-75 degree days use full strength. The more coats you apply the better. You must sand between coats....I prefer hand sanding between coats. Sand with 220between the first two coats. If you are happy with the finish, use 320 or higher....the higher grade of sandpaper used, the less you rub with the sandpaper. When coating, glide with the brush using very little pressure. Always lightly relap your work to eliminate bubbles and runs. Be patient, keep moving...do not dally on one spot.
If you hang in there you will get a look that people will compliment you on. Always remember one thing....once you use varnish....you must periodically give refresher coats...you will lose some sailing time.
good luck........Charlie cd36 N.Y.
jcp1347j@aol.com
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Chris Schnell
Re: Seek feedback on Epifanes varnishes-Great!
Joel,
We acquired MADNESS III , CD 30 Cutter, about a year ago and while I had her on the hill I started on my teak, particularly the toe & rub rails as they're so much easier to do on the hard. Once cleaned (combination of light power washing and then bleaching/scrubbing) I did sand her down SOME with 80 grit and dremel hand sander (that or equivalent a must for corners, etc.). I did not take her all the way down but left some grain raised. I was very concerned about loosing wood. So once cleaned and lightly sanded I began the varnish process because I'd heard too many negatives about cetol. Having watched a local wooden hull boat builder here in Southport create a masterpiece, I followed suit and began using Epiphanes high gloss varnish on his recommendation. He was right! The stuff is fantastic and has as high a UV as anything on the market. The key to me with the slightly raised grain was to penetrate the grain and seal the wood so I began with 2 coats of 50% dilluted Epifanes varnish so that it soaked deep into the wood to seal and protect. Then the 3rd-5th coat were about 65% varnish, with the 6th & 7th coat at 80%...that's right, 7 coats minimum for the initial restoration. I never took it to 100% varnish as it was just to thick for my liking...rather put an extra coat. After the 3rd & 5th coat I burnished the surface with 300 grit wet/dry paper and then wiped it down with mineral spirits and let it dry. You must give it the minimum 24 hour recommended drying time before burnishing. At the time I thought she looked fantastic! It's been a year now and with the few exceptions of where there are natural wear points, she's held up better than I'd expected. The key is that each spring and fall for the next 3-5 years I will clean her well, wipe her down with mineral spirits, lightly burnish her w/the 300 grit, and put a 80% coat on her to maintain her. Like I said, I expect that to last 3-5 years before I have to do any major restoration, and then I doubt I'll take her to bare wood unless I'm getting alot of cracking or flaking. And touchup is easy when you find a chafe from a dock line or become too intimate with a piling. Smooth and clean, and apply a few coats....it matches up beautiful. The color is deep and rich and in contrast to the linen colored non-skid and new linen canvas (dodger, bimini, etc.). So that's what I did. Good luck!
Fair Winds & Calm Seas
Chris Schnell & Dale Hampton
s/v MADNESS III, CD30 #235
Southport, NC
swabbie@compaq.net
We acquired MADNESS III , CD 30 Cutter, about a year ago and while I had her on the hill I started on my teak, particularly the toe & rub rails as they're so much easier to do on the hard. Once cleaned (combination of light power washing and then bleaching/scrubbing) I did sand her down SOME with 80 grit and dremel hand sander (that or equivalent a must for corners, etc.). I did not take her all the way down but left some grain raised. I was very concerned about loosing wood. So once cleaned and lightly sanded I began the varnish process because I'd heard too many negatives about cetol. Having watched a local wooden hull boat builder here in Southport create a masterpiece, I followed suit and began using Epiphanes high gloss varnish on his recommendation. He was right! The stuff is fantastic and has as high a UV as anything on the market. The key to me with the slightly raised grain was to penetrate the grain and seal the wood so I began with 2 coats of 50% dilluted Epifanes varnish so that it soaked deep into the wood to seal and protect. Then the 3rd-5th coat were about 65% varnish, with the 6th & 7th coat at 80%...that's right, 7 coats minimum for the initial restoration. I never took it to 100% varnish as it was just to thick for my liking...rather put an extra coat. After the 3rd & 5th coat I burnished the surface with 300 grit wet/dry paper and then wiped it down with mineral spirits and let it dry. You must give it the minimum 24 hour recommended drying time before burnishing. At the time I thought she looked fantastic! It's been a year now and with the few exceptions of where there are natural wear points, she's held up better than I'd expected. The key is that each spring and fall for the next 3-5 years I will clean her well, wipe her down with mineral spirits, lightly burnish her w/the 300 grit, and put a 80% coat on her to maintain her. Like I said, I expect that to last 3-5 years before I have to do any major restoration, and then I doubt I'll take her to bare wood unless I'm getting alot of cracking or flaking. And touchup is easy when you find a chafe from a dock line or become too intimate with a piling. Smooth and clean, and apply a few coats....it matches up beautiful. The color is deep and rich and in contrast to the linen colored non-skid and new linen canvas (dodger, bimini, etc.). So that's what I did. Good luck!
Fair Winds & Calm Seas
Chris Schnell & Dale Hampton
s/v MADNESS III, CD30 #235
Southport, NC
swabbie@compaq.net