coaming

[Chuck Gombeyski]

I have removed the cockpit coaming from my 25D.

Has anyone who has removed the coaming had any success in doing some degree of finish work prior to reinstallation?

I'm particularly interested in how you handled the cutting and finishing of the plugs that cover the mounting screws.



cgombeyski@aol.com

[Larry DeMers]

Teak bungs are available from Defenders, or even West Marine I think. Just get one the size of the hole, put in a few drops of good exterior carpenters wood glue, and tap the bung into place as far as it will go. Wait a few hours, then use a flush cutting, fine bladed saw (believe it or not, I found a neat one that is a 8 in., disassembleable and flush cutting saw with an offset handle, for $2.50 in the clearance bin of my hardware store!)or a sharp chisel. Sand flush, then refinish the region to match the surrounding area.
That 's it.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Lake Superior

I have removed the cockpit coaming from my 25D.

Has anyone who has removed the coaming had any success in doing some degree of finish work prior to reinstallation?

I'm particularly interested in how you handled the cutting and finishing of the plugs that cover the mounting screws.

demers@sgi.com

[Will W.]

I found that some of the plugs are twice as big (deep/long) as need be. I cut them in half before proceeding. This made sanding them flush pretty easy.

Will Wheatley
Suzi Q
CD25
Sailing from Chesapeake Beach, MD

Teak bungs are available from Defenders, or even West Marine I think. Just get one the size of the hole, put in a few drops of good exterior carpenters wood glue, and tap the bung into place as far as it will go. Wait a few hours, then use a flush cutting, fine bladed saw (believe it or not, I found a neat one that is a 8 in., disassembleable and flush cutting saw with an offset handle, for $2.50 in the clearance bin of my hardware store!)or a sharp chisel. Sand flush, then refinish the region to match the surrounding area.
That 's it.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Lake Superior

I have removed the cockpit coaming from my 25D.

Has anyone who has removed the coaming had any success in doing some degree of finish work prior to reinstallation?

I'm particularly interested in how you handled the cutting and finishing of the plugs that cover the mounting screws.

willwheatley@starpower.net

[Mike]

Don't saw the "plugs"! All it will do is mess up the coaming! Instead insert the bungs with a little exterior glue. (You can let them sit there a month or two if you like. I usually wait a few hours. If the hole is properly fitted you almost don't even need the glue.) Make sure the hole and the plug match. It doesn't hurt to bore the hole with the proper sized bit just to make sure there is no old wood or glue in the hole.
Then take a sharp chiesel, turn it upside down, hit it once on each side. The "plug" will shear off right above the surrounding wood, and all you'll need to do is a little finish sanding. (When I say upside down, I mean take the flat, or bottom side, and keep it up away from the wood. Take the beveled side and lay it against the surrounding wood.)
After you get the system down, you can do an entire rub rail in a few minutes.
Hope this helps,

Mike



mwankum@tribune.com

[John R.]

I found that some of the plugs are twice as big (deep/long) as need be. I cut them in half before proceeding. This made sanding them flush pretty easy.

Will Wheatley
Suzi Q
CD25
Sailing from Chesapeake Beach, MD

A couple more tips:

1) Make your bungs don't buy them, they are absolutely ridiculously priced. Get a self ejecting plug cutter for your drill (small drill press is best)and some scrap teak (fine grain). Try to get a plug cutter that will bevel or taper the leading edge. You can get plug cutters from most hardware and home improvement stores or tool outlets.

1) Use bungs with a beveled leading edge, they will drive into the hole easier and straighter. If the ones you have aren't beveled just hit the leading edge with a wood rasp or a disc sander before using. Long bungs can be cut in half like Will mentioned.

2) Use varnish rather than glue to assist in securing the bung in place. It makes them far easier to remove in the future if necessary. Just dip the leading end of the bung into some varnish and then insert the bung into the hole. Wipe away excess varnish with a rag and mineral spirits.

As Larry mentioned use glue (or epoxy), but only on very shallow holes such as those on an eye brow to help hold a small section of bung in place where the hole is not deep enough to accept a significant length of bung. Any glued bungs will break apart and possibly damage surrounding wood when removed at a later date.

3: Trim with a *very sharp* (very important!) heavy 2" wood chisel and a wooden mallet. You won't believe how easy and accurate this makes
the trimming job without significantly risking damage to the primary wood. Leave bungs 1/16" above the surface of the primary wood. Sand smooth.

4) FYI - To remove a bung, drill a small pilot hole in the center of the bung until you contact the screw head beneath the bung. Then insert and screw in a self tapping screw (usually a #8)into the pilot hole. Keep screwing the tapping screw in and the bung will begin to be lifted out from it's hole as the screw contacts the head of the covered screw. Remove any varnish or other coating before using this process or it will lift the wood surface surrounding the bung hole.

Teak bungs are available from Defenders, or even West Marine I think. Just get one the size of the hole, put in a few drops of good exterior carpenters wood glue, and tap the bung into place as far as it will go. Wait a few hours, then use a flush cutting, fine bladed saw (believe it or not, I found a neat one that is a 8 in., disassembleable and flush cutting saw with an offset handle, for $2.50 in the clearance bin of my hardware store!)or a sharp chisel. Sand flush, then refinish the region to match the surrounding area.
That 's it.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Lake Superior

I have removed the cockpit coaming from my 25D.

Has anyone who has removed the coaming had any success in doing some degree of finish work prior to reinstallation?

I'm particularly interested in how you handled the cutting and finishing of the plugs that cover the mounting screws.

[Larry DeMers]

Good Ideas All! I especially liked the idea of not sawing the bung off if you have a very sharp chisel. The saw I was using is made for cutting a fine kerf cut close to a surface, so the pitch of the saw blade does not have the saw teeth bent outwards on alternating pairs as do most saws that are meant to remove wood. This saw doesn't mark up the surrounding area that much..maybe a scuff mark if you got carried away, but it is basicly not abrading the surface at all.
Using a chisel is great when the bung is in deep as is normal. But if only in shallow, the saw is still better as the sharp blows needed to get the chisel to work for you will dislodge a shallowly placed bung I suspect.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers

I found that some of the plugs are twice as big (deep/long) as need be. I cut them in half before proceeding. This made sanding them flush pretty easy.

Will Wheatley
Suzi Q
CD25
Sailing from Chesapeake Beach, MD

A couple more tips:

1) Make your bungs don't buy them, they are absolutely ridiculously priced. Get a self ejecting plug cutter for your drill (small drill press is best)and some scrap teak (fine grain). Try to get a plug cutter that will bevel or taper the leading edge. You can get plug cutters from most hardware and home improvement stores or tool outlets.

1) Use bungs with a beveled leading edge, they will drive into the hole easier and straighter. If the ones you have aren't beveled just hit the leading edge with a wood rasp or a disc sander before using. Long bungs can be cut in half like Will mentioned.

2) Use varnish rather than glue to assist in securing the bung in place. It makes them far easier to remove in the future if necessary. Just dip the leading end of the bung into some varnish and then insert the bung into the hole. Wipe away excess varnish with a rag and mineral spirits.

As Larry mentioned use glue (or epoxy), but only on very shallow holes such as those on an eye brow to help hold a small section of bung in place where the hole is not deep enough to accept a significant length of bung. Any glued bungs will break apart and possibly damage surrounding wood when removed at a later date.

3: Trim with a *very sharp* (very important!) heavy 2" wood chisel and a wooden mallet. You won't believe how easy and accurate this makes
the trimming job without significantly risking damage to the primary wood. Leave bungs 1/16" above the surface of the primary wood. Sand smooth.

4) FYI - To remove a bung, drill a small pilot hole in the center of the bung until you contact the screw head beneath the bung. Then insert and screw in a self tapping screw (usually a #8)into the pilot hole. Keep screwing the tapping screw in and the bung will begin to be lifted out from it's hole as the screw contacts the head of the covered screw. Remove any varnish or other coating before using this process or it will lift the wood surface surrounding the bung hole.

Teak bungs are available from Defenders, or even West Marine I think. Just get one the size of the hole, put in a few drops of good exterior carpenters wood glue, and tap the bung into place as far as it will go. Wait a few hours, then use a flush cutting, fine bladed saw (believe it or not, I found a neat one that is a 8 in., disassembleable and flush cutting saw with an offset handle, for $2.50 in the clearance bin of my hardware store!)or a sharp chisel. Sand flush, then refinish the region to match the surrounding area.
That 's it.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30 Lake Superior

demers@sgi.com

[Larry DeMers]

I use a thin-kerf saw that has the teeth in-line rather than alternately facing outwards. The handle is offset so that you can lay the whole blade essentially flat aginst some work or flat surface. The teeth then lay above the work surface a bit, and will not mar the surface if done this way. The cut into the plug is slightly above the surface, giving you something to sand down flush.

I am confused about how you use your chisel. In the orientation you speak of, the chisel will try to cut straight, then upwards. What are you avoiding by not using the chisel flat to the surface? Especially using your technique where you nick the bung on both sides before decapitating it.

I would worry about a tall bung being knocked out of it's hole if I tried to use a chisel and hammer anywhere but at the exit level of the bung. You gain a lot of mechanical advantage towards that end when you move up the body of the bung, and then strike it. Everyone to their favorite methods I guess..

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer

Don't saw the "plugs"! All it will do is mess up the coaming! Instead insert the bungs with a little exterior glue. (You can let them sit there a month or two if you like. I usually wait a few hours. If the hole is properly fitted you almost don't even need the glue.) Make sure the hole and the plug match. It doesn't hurt to bore the hole with the proper sized bit just to make sure there is no old wood or glue in the hole.
Then take a sharp chiesel, turn it upside down, hit it once on each side. The "plug" will shear off right above the surrounding wood, and all you'll need to do is a little finish sanding. (When I say upside down, I mean take the flat, or bottom side, and keep it up away from the wood. Take the beveled side and lay it against the surrounding wood.)
After you get the system down, you can do an entire rub rail in a few minutes.
Hope this helps,

Mike

demers@sgi.com

[Mike]

I wish I could take credit for this inovation, but credit actually goes to Don Casey in his book, "This Old Boat.(pg 204) By turn the chiesel upside down you cut the plug up on one side, then with a clean cut from the other side you cut the plug almost even with the surrounding wood. Works so quick and simple I was amazed. Hope it helps.

Mike



mwankum@tribune.com

[John R.]

I wish I could take credit for this inovation, but credit actually goes to Don Casey in his book, "This Old Boat.(pg 204) By turn the chiesel upside down you cut the plug up on one side, then with a clean cut from the other side you cut the plug almost even with the surrounding wood. Works so quick and simple I was amazed. Hope it helps.

Mike

Larry,

Flipping the chisel over reduces the chance the bung will seperate at an angle below the surface of the wood being bunged. Using the chisel in a flipped orientation is standard technique.Chiseling can be a problem sometimes if a bung is not secured with varnish or another form of adhesive.

The saw you use (a casing saw I assume) could be useful in trimming short or long bungs but is simply a slow process, that's the problem. Imagine trying to trim the bungs on a newly laid teak deck sawing them one at a time. The heavy sharp chisel makes quick work in this type situation or whenever speed and accuracy is important. Hobby shops sell a small super fine tooth version of the saw design you describe. They also have a *hollow* kerf with no offset. Chisels or saws, to each his own.....there is a time and place for both. Chisels are the more common practice.