CD27 Stemhead fitting

[Mike Thorpe]

Hi,
I am looking for information on removing the stemhead fitting on a CD27. I just returned from a 2 week single handed cruise on my CD27 "Lady Jane" and while I had a great time on a great boat I have to really get serious about storing my 22# Bruce anchor on the bow. Hence my question about the stemhead fitting. The CD27 doesn't have a bow roller like the CD25D or CD28. I am wondering if I could remove the stemhead fitting, install a teak plank overhanging the bow and then thru bolt the stemhead fitting back into place. Has any one out there in Cape Dory land had the opportunity to remove the stemhead fitting from a CD27? I know that there a 6 bolts to remove but I don't know if the fitting is also glassed into the deck or the stem itself.


Thanks for your help
Mike



mthorpe@capecod.net

[Bill Goldsmith]

Mike,
From my look at the Circa 1980 owner's manual it appears that the stemhead fitting is just bolted on, although I've not had the need to test this because my CD27 (Hull 182, 1980) has a teak bowsprit with an anchor roller, all apearing to be original equipment (spartan roller, etc). I would guess was an option at the time because the sprit is not in the manual. The bowsprit is at least 1 1/2 inches thick, and attaches with flathead bolts which go through the bowsprit and into tapped holes in a cast aluminum stemhead reinforcement. I presume that you could remove the existing stemhead fitting and, using longer bolts and some skilled woodworking, fashion a bowsprit for the anchor. I keep a Bruce on the bow and it is a great system, great anchor. All this is guesswork, and I'd suggest perhaps getting actual experienced advice before proceeding.

Bill

Hi,
I am looking for information on removing the stemhead fitting on a CD27. I just returned from a 2 week single handed cruise on my CD27 "Lady Jane" and while I had a great time on a great boat I have to really get serious about storing my 22# Bruce anchor on the bow. Hence my question about the stemhead fitting. The CD27 doesn't have a bow roller like the CD25D or CD28. I am wondering if I could remove the stemhead fitting, install a teak plank overhanging the bow and then thru bolt the stemhead fitting back into place. Has any one out there in Cape Dory land had the opportunity to remove the stemhead fitting from a CD27? I know that there a 6 bolts to remove but I don't know if the fitting is also glassed into the deck or the stem itself.


Thanks for your help
Mike

goldy@bestweb.net

[Mike Thorpe]

Bill,

Thanks for the information. I have since talked to Robinhood Marine and, while the individual wasn't familiar with CD27 details themselves, he did say that the stemhead fittings on the Robinhood models were through bolted with backing plates: not glassed in. This winter I will pursue removing the stemhead fitting and putting my wood working skills to the test. Your mention of a 1 1/2 inch thickness is a good starting point for building the bowsprite. I am planning on setting the width of the bowsprite to match the outboard edges of the teak toerails where they currently butt up to the stemhead fitting. I am undecided about the actual overhangs (bow & foredeck). A 22# Bruce is approximately 20" from the end of the shank to the roller contact point. Do I want to put all of the anchor on the bowsprit or some portion on the foredeck? Your thoughts on this?

Thanks
Mike

Mike,
From my look at the Circa 1980 owner's manual it appears that the stemhead fitting is just bolted on, although I've not had the need to test this because my CD27 (Hull 182, 1980) has a teak bowsprit with an anchor roller, all apearing to be original equipment (spartan roller, etc). I would guess was an option at the time because the sprit is not in the manual. The bowsprit is at least 1 1/2 inches thick, and attaches with flathead bolts which go through the bowsprit and into tapped holes in a cast aluminum stemhead reinforcement. I presume that you could remove the existing stemhead fitting and, using longer bolts and some skilled woodworking, fashion a bowsprit for the anchor. I keep a Bruce on the bow and it is a great system, great anchor. All this is guesswork, and I'd suggest perhaps getting actual experienced advice before proceeding.

Bill

Hi,
I am looking for information on removing the stemhead fitting on a CD27. I just returned from a 2 week single handed cruise on my CD27 "Lady Jane" and while I had a great time on a great boat I have to really get serious about storing my 22# Bruce anchor on the bow. Hence my question about the stemhead fitting. The CD27 doesn't have a bow roller like the CD25D or CD28. I am wondering if I could remove the stemhead fitting, install a teak plank overhanging the bow and then thru bolt the stemhead fitting back into place. Has any one out there in Cape Dory land had the opportunity to remove the stemhead fitting from a CD27? I know that there a 6 bolts to remove but I don't know if the fitting is also glassed into the deck or the stem itself.


Thanks for your help
Mike

mthorpe@capecod.net

[Bill Goldsmith]

Mike:

My Bruce sits entirely on the bowsprit with some very nice Spartan bronze fittings holding it down. There are also some very nice Spartan locking dockline chocks on the bowsprit. I understand Spartan still supplies parts such as these so it would be worth investigating. The anchor never has to touch fiberglass at all. The rode is led back into the deck pipe. I'd be glad to take some pictures and measurements for a fellow CD27 owner such as you. If someone could explain to me how to get the photos into the computer, they might be of interest to other website readers as well.

Bill

Bill,

Thanks for the information. I have since talked to Robinhood Marine and, while the individual wasn't familiar with CD27 details themselves, he did say that the stemhead fittings on the Robinhood models were through bolted with backing plates: not glassed in. This winter I will pursue removing the stemhead fitting and putting my wood working skills to the test. Your mention of a 1 1/2 inch thickness is a good starting point for building the bowsprite. I am planning on setting the width of the bowsprite to match the outboard edges of the teak toerails where they currently butt up to the stemhead fitting. I am undecided about the actual overhangs (bow & foredeck). A 22# Bruce is approximately 20" from the end of the shank to the roller contact point. Do I want to put all of the anchor on the bowsprit or some portion on the foredeck? Your thoughts on this?

Thanks
Mike

Mike,
From my look at the Circa 1980 owner's manual it appears that the stemhead fitting is just bolted on, although I've not had the need to test this because my CD27 (Hull 182, 1980) has a teak bowsprit with an anchor roller, all apearing to be original equipment (spartan roller, etc). I would guess was an option at the time because the sprit is not in the manual. The bowsprit is at least 1 1/2 inches thick, and attaches with flathead bolts which go through the bowsprit and into tapped holes in a cast aluminum stemhead reinforcement. I presume that you could remove the existing stemhead fitting and, using longer bolts and some skilled woodworking, fashion a bowsprit for the anchor. I keep a Bruce on the bow and it is a great system, great anchor. All this is guesswork, and I'd suggest perhaps getting actual experienced advice before proceeding.

Bill

Hi,
I am looking for information on removing the stemhead fitting on a CD27. I just returned from a 2 week single handed cruise on my CD27 "Lady Jane" and while I had a great time on a great boat I have to really get serious about storing my 22# Bruce anchor on the bow. Hence my question about the stemhead fitting. The CD27 doesn't have a bow roller like the CD25D or CD28. I am wondering if I could remove the stemhead fitting, install a teak plank overhanging the bow and then thru bolt the stemhead fitting back into place. Has any one out there in Cape Dory land had the opportunity to remove the stemhead fitting from a CD27? I know that there a 6 bolts to remove but I don't know if the fitting is also glassed into the deck or the stem itself.


Thanks for your help
Mike

Goldy@bestweb.net

[bob loewenstein]

I'd be glad to take some pictures and measurements for a fellow CD27 owner such as you. If someone could explain to me how to get the photos into the computer, they might be of interest to other website readers as well.

Bill

I would certainly be interested in seeing the photos. However, if you don't have either a digital camera, scanner, or video camera and a frame grabber, it might be difficult for you to get the images into your computer.

Bob



rfl@yerkes.uchicago.edu

[Mike Thorpe]

Bill:

Any and all measurements, drawings, photos, etc would be greatly appreciated. Posting them on this website is a great idea but I don't know how to do that. If you would be willing to snail mail the info to me I'd be happy to pick any associated costs. Contact me via my Email address <mthorpe@capecod.net> and I'll give you my mailing address.
Thanks again

Mike

Mike:

My Bruce sits entirely on the bowsprit with some very nice Spartan bronze fittings holding it down. There are also some very nice Spartan locking dockline chocks on the bowsprit. I understand Spartan still supplies parts such as these so it would be worth investigating. The anchor never has to touch fiberglass at all. The rode is led back into the deck pipe. I'd be glad to take some pictures and measurements for a fellow CD27 owner such as you. If someone could explain to me how to get the photos into the computer, they might be of interest to other website readers as well.

Bill

Bill,

Thanks for the information. I have since talked to Robinhood Marine and, while the individual wasn't familiar with CD27 details themselves, he did say that the stemhead fittings on the Robinhood models were through bolted with backing plates: not glassed in. This winter I will pursue removing the stemhead fitting and putting my wood working skills to the test. Your mention of a 1 1/2 inch thickness is a good starting point for building the bowsprite. I am planning on setting the width of the bowsprite to match the outboard edges of the teak toerails where they currently butt up to the stemhead fitting. I am undecided about the actual overhangs (bow & foredeck). A 22# Bruce is approximately 20" from the end of the shank to the roller contact point. Do I want to put all of the anchor on the bowsprit or some portion on the foredeck? Your thoughts on this?

Thanks
Mike

Mike,
From my look at the Circa 1980 owner's manual it appears that the stemhead fitting is just bolted on, although I've not had the need to test this because my CD27 (Hull 182, 1980) has a teak bowsprit with an anchor roller, all apearing to be original equipment (spartan roller, etc). I would guess was an option at the time because the sprit is not in the manual. The bowsprit is at least 1 1/2 inches thick, and attaches with flathead bolts which go through the bowsprit and into tapped holes in a cast aluminum stemhead reinforcement. I presume that you could remove the existing stemhead fitting and, using longer bolts and some skilled woodworking, fashion a bowsprit for the anchor. I keep a Bruce on the bow and it is a great system, great anchor. All this is guesswork, and I'd suggest perhaps getting actual experienced advice before proceeding.

Bill

mthorpe@capecod.net