Dudes & Dudettes--
I have reviewed most of the postings regarding mainsails and the consensus appears to be that loose-footed, full-battened mains are the sails of choice because they hold shape better, don't luff as easily or loudly, can be trimmed more precisely, and are easier to reef.
The loft that made our new jib is quoting a mainsail price of $1,500-2,000, depending on the bells and whistles we opt for. That's based on 7 oz sailcloth. That said, if you had that much money to spend what bells and whistles would you choose? Would you need leach lines on a fully battened sail?
Mario
s/v Rhapsody
CD 30 #252
Windmill Point, VA
capedory252NOSPAM@aol.com
CD 30 Mainsail recommendations
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Larry DeMers
Re: CD 30 Mainsail recommendations
Mario,
I have a new UK Loose-Footed main and it is 7.5 oz sailcloth, has three reef points, the top batten is a full batten, triple stitching, extra large teflon sliders luff and foot of sail. We also got web reinforcing for the reefing grommets, head board and foot cringle. Also, we had leech lines installed, as we use them.
The price I believe was $1800..would have to dig a bit to find that receipt now. We also got a reefing (obviously loose-footed) staysail made at the same time, and used their winter discount program..(our sail design made and submitted by November, sail picked up by April 1st.)
The sail fit well, and has surpassed my expectations in added pointing ability, speed, control of heeling angle thru outhaul adjustments, faster near-downwind sailing thru loosening of the outhaul to form a large draft pocket, etc. There are little secrets to learn too, which gives you some tweaking adjustments to make, then observing what happens...etc.
I was very leary about having a fully battened sail. There is a body of opinion about them that is negative, mainly because of the extra cost for batt cars, the need to stop dropping sails until you are dead in to the wind, and a few other issues that were specific to the brand of car or equipment. It's expensive to do this, and the upside seems pretty small. our sailmaker was against this for a cruising boat. They recommended just the top batten be full. In practice, the sail does stay drawing longer before luffing, with the battened top sail.
One thing is for sure. Once you raise the new sail, you will have darn near-instant gratification for the dough spent on that sail. The effect is instantaneous, and everyone should experience this thrill once in their sailing careers at least. -If it all fits and is cut right, that is (and that is certainly not a given).
Enjoy a really fine experience with the new sails,
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Sailing Lake Superior ~~three weeks to launch!~~
demers@sgi.com
I have a new UK Loose-Footed main and it is 7.5 oz sailcloth, has three reef points, the top batten is a full batten, triple stitching, extra large teflon sliders luff and foot of sail. We also got web reinforcing for the reefing grommets, head board and foot cringle. Also, we had leech lines installed, as we use them.
The price I believe was $1800..would have to dig a bit to find that receipt now. We also got a reefing (obviously loose-footed) staysail made at the same time, and used their winter discount program..(our sail design made and submitted by November, sail picked up by April 1st.)
The sail fit well, and has surpassed my expectations in added pointing ability, speed, control of heeling angle thru outhaul adjustments, faster near-downwind sailing thru loosening of the outhaul to form a large draft pocket, etc. There are little secrets to learn too, which gives you some tweaking adjustments to make, then observing what happens...etc.
I was very leary about having a fully battened sail. There is a body of opinion about them that is negative, mainly because of the extra cost for batt cars, the need to stop dropping sails until you are dead in to the wind, and a few other issues that were specific to the brand of car or equipment. It's expensive to do this, and the upside seems pretty small. our sailmaker was against this for a cruising boat. They recommended just the top batten be full. In practice, the sail does stay drawing longer before luffing, with the battened top sail.
One thing is for sure. Once you raise the new sail, you will have darn near-instant gratification for the dough spent on that sail. The effect is instantaneous, and everyone should experience this thrill once in their sailing careers at least. -If it all fits and is cut right, that is (and that is certainly not a given).
Enjoy a really fine experience with the new sails,
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Sailing Lake Superior ~~three weeks to launch!~~
Mario wrote: Dudes & Dudettes--
I have reviewed most of the postings regarding mainsails and the consensus appears to be that loose-footed, full-battened mains are the sails of choice because they hold shape better, don't luff as easily or loudly, can be trimmed more precisely, and are easier to reef.
The loft that made our new jib is quoting a mainsail price of $1,500-2,000, depending on the bells and whistles we opt for. That's based on 7 oz sailcloth. That said, if you had that much money to spend what bells and whistles would you choose? Would you need leach lines on a fully battened sail?
Mario
s/v Rhapsody
CD 30 #252
Windmill Point, VA
demers@sgi.com
-
Steve Alarcon
Re: CD 30 Mainsail recommendations
We just took delivery of new UK full batten, loose footed main, new stay'sl with jacklines, and new 110% roller furler yankee. Get to try them out this week end, and boy am I excited. I've sailed my whole life on old rags, and this is a real mile stone for me. Sorry, just had to brag for a second.
To Mario's question, my perspective is that it makes sense to protect the investment and yourself. Leech lines, webbing and chafe protection at clew and tack, reef points etc. probably are worth the small incremental expense over the life of the sail. However, everybody has their own tolerence and opinion.
Steve Alarcon
CD36 Tenacity
Seattle
alarcon3@prodigy.net
To Mario's question, my perspective is that it makes sense to protect the investment and yourself. Leech lines, webbing and chafe protection at clew and tack, reef points etc. probably are worth the small incremental expense over the life of the sail. However, everybody has their own tolerence and opinion.
Steve Alarcon
CD36 Tenacity
Seattle
alarcon3@prodigy.net