We own a CD 27 No.23 and are considering installing some form of refrigeration. Does anyone have any comments/suggestions?
AandJatCHATEAUVIGNELAURE@Hotmail.com
Refrigeration
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Tim Akers
Re: Refrigeration
I have an engine driven compressor with a dual loop freezer plate on my CD28. The second loop in the plate is there in case some day I would want to hook up a 120v shorepower driven compressor. We generaly anchor out so I havnt seen the need. Very reliable system with a Techumseh piston compressor which is bulletproof. Stay away from rotary compressors, they dont last more than a couple seasons. I dont know how much it cost as it was in the boat when I baught it.James Scotney wrote: We own a CD 27 No.23 and are considering installing some form of refrigeration. Does anyone have any comments/suggestions?
Good luck.
Tim Akers
`Night Wind` CD28 #67
tcakers@bellsouth.net
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Larry DeMers
Re: Refrigeration
We installed an Isotherm SP system last summer, and it has worked great for nearly 1000 miles so far, since installing. We used it this past weekend, while in the cradle even. The system is made to be very efficient, and is for ice boxes of 6 cu ft. or less. It uses the galley sink drain seacock as a heat exchanger for the compressor. It depends on the water ebbing up and down in that galley sink to remove the heat it accumulates. It works great for us up here on Superior. I designed a medium sized freezer out of acrylic plastic, and fit nearly a months worth of frozen meat into the freezer (for two people). I highly recommend it.
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Lake superior
demers@sgi.com
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Lake superior
James Scotney wrote: We own a CD 27 No.23 and are considering installing some form of refrigeration. Does anyone have any comments/suggestions?
demers@sgi.com
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Ken Cave
Re: Refrigeration
I have an Adler Barbour frig system, and the former owner placed the compressor on top of the fuel tank of my CD 28.
He than ran all the cable, piping, etc, through the engine compartment and into the ice box. Since I purchased my boat, all I have done is insulate the outside of the box with inch and half sound foam insulation as well as the bottom. (Cape Dory stuffed a half inch of styrofoam between the ice box and the plywood that formed the box for the icebox-which fell apart when touching it)
I have used this system for the past two years (and the system was installed in l998) with great results as it runs off the batteries (now I do have four six volt and one 12 volt batteries)
It also makes ice-the envy of sailers when you can make a cold one!
Ken Cave
CD 28 Dragon Tale #227
Anacortes, WA
bcave@whidbey.net
He than ran all the cable, piping, etc, through the engine compartment and into the ice box. Since I purchased my boat, all I have done is insulate the outside of the box with inch and half sound foam insulation as well as the bottom. (Cape Dory stuffed a half inch of styrofoam between the ice box and the plywood that formed the box for the icebox-which fell apart when touching it)
I have used this system for the past two years (and the system was installed in l998) with great results as it runs off the batteries (now I do have four six volt and one 12 volt batteries)
It also makes ice-the envy of sailers when you can make a cold one!
Ken Cave
CD 28 Dragon Tale #227
Anacortes, WA
bcave@whidbey.net
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Ah, come on Larry ! ! !
Captain DeMers,
Really Sir, how can one measure the efficiency of a cooler when there is ICE on the INSIDE, and ICE on the OUTSIDE????? I would think that up there in the frozen North country, the efficiency is ALWAYS 100% ! ! Now, try that in a reasonable area like Noank, CT and one will see what one will see........learning to handle a new shelf footed mains'l in light airs......I remain Sir, yur most HUMBLE servant......
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei
Noank, CT
Really Sir, how can one measure the efficiency of a cooler when there is ICE on the INSIDE, and ICE on the OUTSIDE????? I would think that up there in the frozen North country, the efficiency is ALWAYS 100% ! ! Now, try that in a reasonable area like Noank, CT and one will see what one will see........learning to handle a new shelf footed mains'l in light airs......I remain Sir, yur most HUMBLE servant......
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei
Noank, CT
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Larry DeMers
Re: Ah, come on Larry ! ! !
Dear Cappy Chicken Legs,
True enough, ice outside DID keep the box at 30 deg. all weekend long without the reefer running except when we first boarded..but you missed the point my dear sir! The point was that we ran the reefer when we first arrived..without the benefit of any "proper and usual" cooling medium at all..since it is designed to use water sloshing up and down in the galley waste pipe as a heat exchanger and it only got to use convection cooling with air instead..and it still took the loaded box from around 45 deg. to 30 deg. in a couple hours, without a cooling medium. That was my point -that this is the only system I know of that is efficient enough that it will even use air in the waste pipe as a heat removal medium!
Now for the iceicles that hang from the galley overhead..they come in right handy sir..fer mixing our drinks of rum and a fine chocolate preparation, making a bracing toddy to warm the soul of even the scurvy likes of ye! Why they make good -but temporary, belaying pins too! Nothing goes to waste in nature ye know...
Cheers!
Captain Frozen Tushie
Commanding the Cutter
'DeLaMer'
A fine example of Carl Albergs work in fiberglass in the 30 ft. family
Currently pining for her anticipated launch on Lake Superior's wonderful South Shore.
demers@sgi.com
True enough, ice outside DID keep the box at 30 deg. all weekend long without the reefer running except when we first boarded..but you missed the point my dear sir! The point was that we ran the reefer when we first arrived..without the benefit of any "proper and usual" cooling medium at all..since it is designed to use water sloshing up and down in the galley waste pipe as a heat exchanger and it only got to use convection cooling with air instead..and it still took the loaded box from around 45 deg. to 30 deg. in a couple hours, without a cooling medium. That was my point -that this is the only system I know of that is efficient enough that it will even use air in the waste pipe as a heat removal medium!
Now for the iceicles that hang from the galley overhead..they come in right handy sir..fer mixing our drinks of rum and a fine chocolate preparation, making a bracing toddy to warm the soul of even the scurvy likes of ye! Why they make good -but temporary, belaying pins too! Nothing goes to waste in nature ye know...
Cheers!
Captain Frozen Tushie
Commanding the Cutter
'DeLaMer'
A fine example of Carl Albergs work in fiberglass in the 30 ft. family
Currently pining for her anticipated launch on Lake Superior's wonderful South Shore.
D. Stump, Hanalei wrote: Captain DeMers,
Really Sir, how can one measure the efficiency of a cooler when there is ICE on the INSIDE, and ICE on the OUTSIDE????? I would think that up there in the frozen North country, the efficiency is ALWAYS 100% ! ! Now, try that in a reasonable area like Noank, CT and one will see what one will see........learning to handle a new shelf footed mains'l in light airs......I remain Sir, yur most HUMBLE servant......
Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei
Noank, CT
demers@sgi.com
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David Romer
Re: Refrigeration
The trick to efficient referigeration is, I suspect, good insulation.James Scotney wrote: We own a CD 27 No.23 and are considering installing some form of refrigeration. Does anyone have any comments/suggestions?
we installed the heat-shield marine stuff on our CD36 --it's the same stuff they insulate the space shuttle with and the mfgr's literature
says an inch of heat-shield is as good as six or eight inches of foam
we then installed a fridge-o-boat refer, which has the external keel cooler. We're completely saatisfied, regularly make ice, it's quiet, only consumes three or four amps when running. and we're now considering removing the sea-frost engine-driven system installed by a previous owner.
regards,
David romer, S/V Tumbleweed, CD36 #76
a
tweed@esym.net
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Ed Carlson
Re: Refrigeration
I just finished installing an Adler Barbour cold machine in Skywind after asking the same question of our esteemed Cape Dory colleagues. It has been an astounding success, however, the entire task entailed the following steps: 1. upgrading the DC system with 2 Blue Sea 8 switch distribution panels with associated wiring and fuses. Basically ripped out the original CD 6 switch panel and rewired everything on its own circuit including refrigeration. 2. Drilled thru the icebox to spray foam insulate the volume between the box and cabinet - messy. 3. Installed space blanket insulation inside the box. 4.Installed 40 mil fiberglass liner over inside insulation. Fiberglassed the seams to ensure lifetime effectiveness & painted the whole interior with gelcoat. 5. Made 2 teak louvers for air circulation over the compresser/condenser. The teak preserved the original cabinetry next to the icebox. You'd never know it wasn't original. A neighbor put aluminum louvers in his Hunter. Looks trashy. 6. Installed the Adler-Barbour system after putting a 4" Radio Shack computer fan in the in-flow louver to force additional air over the unit. I wired this to the compresser unit in parallel to kick in every time the unit cycles. This forces even more air over the unit for added cooling. 7. Added 4 golfcart batteries for a household bank to give me the extra reserve amp-hours necessary (minimum 300 recommended). 8. Added 1 group 24 battery as designated start battery. Voila!! Good Luck.
Skywindmcm@aol.com
Skywindmcm@aol.com
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Ken Cave
Re: Refrigeration
David:
The heat shield system is the only way to go! I cut mine to fit the side of the frig box from inside the engine compartment and screwed it in with screws and large fender washers. On the bottom, where you have hoses, thru valves for the engine and sink, I rolled up "refletex" and stuffed it into the cavity. This product can be purchased most anywhere and is made of a bubble core plastic with an aluminum type product on one side of the material. Comes in different lengths and sizes.
With these two products, my system if very efficient, even in the summer!
Ken Cave
CD 28 Dragon Tale
Anacortes, WA
bcave@whidbey.net
The heat shield system is the only way to go! I cut mine to fit the side of the frig box from inside the engine compartment and screwed it in with screws and large fender washers. On the bottom, where you have hoses, thru valves for the engine and sink, I rolled up "refletex" and stuffed it into the cavity. This product can be purchased most anywhere and is made of a bubble core plastic with an aluminum type product on one side of the material. Comes in different lengths and sizes.
With these two products, my system if very efficient, even in the summer!
Ken Cave
CD 28 Dragon Tale
Anacortes, WA
bcave@whidbey.net
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Larry DeMers
Re: Refrigeration
Nice Job!! Sounds like we did the same things, except for the breaker panel vendors (mine is Heart Interface) and the reefer itself..I used Isotherm.
But you caught all the major tripups by eliminating the rats nest of wiring and putting everything on their own breakers. I am interested in hearing more about your insulation techniques inside the box. I sprayed urethane foam thru the bottom and sides of the box, and have a good R value there I believe. But the cover of the box is next to get remade right, and you added some interior insulation with the space blanket and fiberglass. How much does this reduce the size of the box?
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
demers@sgi.com
But you caught all the major tripups by eliminating the rats nest of wiring and putting everything on their own breakers. I am interested in hearing more about your insulation techniques inside the box. I sprayed urethane foam thru the bottom and sides of the box, and have a good R value there I believe. But the cover of the box is next to get remade right, and you added some interior insulation with the space blanket and fiberglass. How much does this reduce the size of the box?
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Ed Carlson wrote: I just finished installing an Adler Barbour cold machine in Skywind after asking the same question of our esteemed Cape Dory colleagues. It has been an astounding success, however, the entire task entailed the following steps: 1. upgrading the DC system with 2 Blue Sea 8 switch distribution panels with associated wiring and fuses. Basically ripped out the original CD 6 switch panel and rewired everything on its own circuit including refrigeration. 2. Drilled thru the icebox to spray foam insulate the volume between the box and cabinet - messy. 3. Installed space blanket insulation inside the box. 4.Installed 40 mil fiberglass liner over inside insulation. Fiberglassed the seams to ensure lifetime effectiveness & painted the whole interior with gelcoat. 5. Made 2 teak louvers for air circulation over the compresser/condenser. The teak preserved the original cabinetry next to the icebox. You'd never know it wasn't original. A neighbor put aluminum louvers in his Hunter. Looks trashy. 6. Installed the Adler-Barbour system after putting a 4" Radio Shack computer fan in the in-flow louver to force additional air over the unit. I wired this to the compresser unit in parallel to kick in every time the unit cycles. This forces even more air over the unit for added cooling. 7. Added 4 golfcart batteries for a household bank to give me the extra reserve amp-hours necessary (minimum 300 recommended). 8. Added 1 group 24 battery as designated start battery. Voila!! Good Luck.
demers@sgi.com
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Catherine Monaghan
Re: Insulated Lid
Larry,
In case you're interested, Glacier Bay manufactures what they call a "Ready to Mount" hatch for iceboxes. They're pricey but you can take a look at their hatches and see if you can build something like it.
<a href="http://www.glacierbay.com/Hatch1.htm">Glacier Bay "Ready-to-Mount" Ice Box Hatch</a>
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
catherine_monaghanNOSPAM@merck.com
In case you're interested, Glacier Bay manufactures what they call a "Ready to Mount" hatch for iceboxes. They're pricey but you can take a look at their hatches and see if you can build something like it.
<a href="http://www.glacierbay.com/Hatch1.htm">Glacier Bay "Ready-to-Mount" Ice Box Hatch</a>
Cathy
CD32 Realization, #3
Rahway, NJ
Raritan Bay
Larry DeMers wrote: Nice Job!! Sounds like we did the same things, except for the breaker panel vendors (mine is Heart Interface) and the reefer itself..I used Isotherm.
But you caught all the major tripups by eliminating the rats nest of wiring and putting everything on their own breakers. I am interested in hearing more about your insulation techniques inside the box. I sprayed urethane foam thru the bottom and sides of the box, and have a good R value there I believe. But the cover of the box is next to get remade right, and you added some interior insulation with the space blanket and fiberglass. How much does this reduce the size of the box?
Cheers,
Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Ed Carlson wrote: I just finished installing an Adler Barbour cold machine in Skywind after asking the same question of our esteemed Cape Dory colleagues. It has been an astounding success, however, the entire task entailed the following steps: 1. upgrading the DC system with 2 Blue Sea 8 switch distribution panels with associated wiring and fuses. Basically ripped out the original CD 6 switch panel and rewired everything on its own circuit including refrigeration. 2. Drilled thru the icebox to spray foam insulate the volume between the box and cabinet - messy. 3. Installed space blanket insulation inside the box. 4.Installed 40 mil fiberglass liner over inside insulation. Fiberglassed the seams to ensure lifetime effectiveness & painted the whole interior with gelcoat. 5. Made 2 teak louvers for air circulation over the compresser/condenser. The teak preserved the original cabinetry next to the icebox. You'd never know it wasn't original. A neighbor put aluminum louvers in his Hunter. Looks trashy. 6. Installed the Adler-Barbour system after putting a 4" Radio Shack computer fan in the in-flow louver to force additional air over the unit. I wired this to the compresser unit in parallel to kick in every time the unit cycles. This forces even more air over the unit for added cooling. 7. Added 4 golfcart batteries for a household bank to give me the extra reserve amp-hours necessary (minimum 300 recommended). 8. Added 1 group 24 battery as designated start battery. Voila!! Good Luck.
catherine_monaghanNOSPAM@merck.com