I'm looking at a CD28 1982 and the non skid areas have quite a bit
of crazing. Is this a mostly cosmetic like the broker says or is
this a major fix? Also the boat is a tiller setup and I was wondering
if a conversion to wheel steering is worth it and how much it would cost. I'm sure the tiller purists will not respond favorably.
foxhil2@msn.com
Non Skid Crazing on Deck
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Neil Gordon
Re: Non Skid Crazing on Deck
>>Is this a mostly cosmetic like the broker says or is this a major fix?<<
Either way, it's probably not a reason not to buy the boat. Get an estimate on the fix and take it off the price.
>>I'm sure the tiller purists will not respond favorably.<<
You got that right. What's the burning desire for a wheel?
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY, Boston
CD28 #167
neil@nrgordon.com
Either way, it's probably not a reason not to buy the boat. Get an estimate on the fix and take it off the price.
>>I'm sure the tiller purists will not respond favorably.<<
You got that right. What's the burning desire for a wheel?
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY, Boston
CD28 #167
neil@nrgordon.com
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K Hill
Re: Non Skid Crazing on Deck
What is normally the fix for the crazing especially in the non skidNeil Gordon wrote: >>Is this a mostly cosmetic like the broker says or is this a major fix?<<
Either way, it's probably not a reason not to buy the boat. Get an estimate on the fix and take it off the price.
>>I'm sure the tiller purists will not respond favorably.<<
You got that right. What's the burning desire for a wheel?
Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY, Boston
CD28 #167
area? It seems like this topic comes up quite a bit on this bd.
but I've never been confronted with this problem until now.
Maybe the tiller with a auto helm wouldn't be to bad.
foxhil2@msn.com
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Dana
Re: Non Skid Crazing on Deck
Neil,
First a couple of explainations. Gel coat formulations can give you a wide range of characteristics...but for this discussion let's call it from a "soft" to a "hard" surface. Soft is nice because it flexes but is prone chauking. Hard does not generaly chaulk but it is more brittle, especially with age. The CD gel coat is a hard type of gel coat and many will say it is also just a bit too thick (>25 mil) than most consider appropriate. By cosmetic, the individual is only pointing out that in most of the CD cases...the cracks are not structual failures...i.e. nothing in the deck such as balsa core is rotting because of water getting into it. Other boats with such cracks would indicate that one should be looking at the deck core. Generally the deck would be flexing with wieght on it if a structual failure was occuring. Each owner has handled the cracks differently...some just use a crack filler, some fill and paint over...others have the gel coat removed and a new layer put on (that's expensive). A few hundred to have a surveyor take a look is not a bad idea for piece of mind...the rest of us have excepted that these do occur on CDs and they are generally not structual but we take a close look to make sure it is not....
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darenius@aol.com
First a couple of explainations. Gel coat formulations can give you a wide range of characteristics...but for this discussion let's call it from a "soft" to a "hard" surface. Soft is nice because it flexes but is prone chauking. Hard does not generaly chaulk but it is more brittle, especially with age. The CD gel coat is a hard type of gel coat and many will say it is also just a bit too thick (>25 mil) than most consider appropriate. By cosmetic, the individual is only pointing out that in most of the CD cases...the cracks are not structual failures...i.e. nothing in the deck such as balsa core is rotting because of water getting into it. Other boats with such cracks would indicate that one should be looking at the deck core. Generally the deck would be flexing with wieght on it if a structual failure was occuring. Each owner has handled the cracks differently...some just use a crack filler, some fill and paint over...others have the gel coat removed and a new layer put on (that's expensive). A few hundred to have a surveyor take a look is not a bad idea for piece of mind...the rest of us have excepted that these do occur on CDs and they are generally not structual but we take a close look to make sure it is not....
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K Hill wrote:What is normally the fix for the crazing especially in the non skidNeil Gordon wrote: Regards, Neil
s/v LIQUIDITY, Boston
CD28 #167
area? It seems like this topic comes up quite a bit on this bd.
but I've never been confronted with this problem until now.
Maybe the tiller with a auto helm wouldn't be to bad.
darenius@aol.com
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JimL
Re: Non Skid Crazing on Deck
Me CD25 has this condition on the right side deck ONLY. The boat spent years stored in California sun, with starboard side facing most the sunlight. Curiously, the port side deck had items mounted which leaked, resulting in dry rotted balsa in several places (some I fixed, some are still "in need"). The starboard deck feels solid, and does not seem to have rot. I think this indicates that the gelcoat crazing is a UV problem, and probably not strongly "structural" related.
By the way, just painting over it wasn't the right thing to do. Now it looks like chicken scratches in my paint. I'll have terrible time filling it, now that there's paint in the cracks. Keep in mind my mistake, as you make your plans!
JimL, Odyssey III, Dana Point, CA
leinfam@earthlink.net
By the way, just painting over it wasn't the right thing to do. Now it looks like chicken scratches in my paint. I'll have terrible time filling it, now that there's paint in the cracks. Keep in mind my mistake, as you make your plans!
JimL, Odyssey III, Dana Point, CA
leinfam@earthlink.net