backing plates for cockpit winches CD30

[David Low]

I just removed enough stuff from my lazerettes to allow me to climb into them. (Its amazing how they tend to get filled with culch). I noticed that the backing plates for the base of the cockpit winches were 1/2" plywood and the bolt heads had nearly tore through the plywood. Seems really chintzy for a Cape Dory. I suspect the original plates were lost.

Three questions. One - was this standard for Cape Dory 30s? And two - what are the bolt diameters and the bolt spacing for the bolts securing the winches. Three - if plywood was not original, what are the backing plate sizes.

I can measure them this weekend but am trying to get them fabricated before hand so I can save a trip.

Thanks

Dave



davidlow@erols.com

[Larry DeMers]

Dave,

I would suspect that the ply was used and tightened up against quite hard, pulling the bolts into the wood a bit... my Cd30 uses aluminum plate, about 5 in. square. It appears to be 1/8 " thick or so. I will be removing my old winch Saturday morning and replacing with a new winch, so will take a few pictures of the winch base mounting for you -of course, you will probably be up at your boat by then, heh?
I would recommend just bringing your drill and bits with you, along with a center punch and hammer.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30
Sailing Lake Superior

I just removed enough stuff from my lazerettes to allow me to climb into them. (Its amazing how they tend to get filled with culch). I noticed that the backing plates for the base of the cockpit winches were 1/2" plywood and the bolt heads had nearly tore through the plywood. Seems really chintzy for a Cape Dory. I suspect the original plates were lost.

Three questions. One - was this standard for Cape Dory 30s? And two - what are the bolt diameters and the bolt spacing for the bolts securing the winches. Three - if plywood was not original, what are the backing plate sizes.

I can measure them this weekend but am trying to get them fabricated before hand so I can save a trip.

Thanks

Dave

demers@sgi.com

[Serge Zimberoff]

David,
I suspect that Larry is correct about the aluminum plates. However when we removed ours last time we put 1/8" black rubber gasket sheet between the plate and the fiberglass. Makes just as solid a bond but it feels better to me to have just a tad of load evening material between the plate and the boat surface.
Just my 2 cents...
Serge
Ty 1700
s/v Cloning Around



serge@srtrop.com

[Larry Demers]

Serge,

Good idea. I use a bedding compound instead (usually sikaflex), which acts the same way. Your idea may be less expensive though..sure a lot less messy!

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

David,
I suspect that Larry is correct about the aluminum plates. However when we removed ours last time we put 1/8" black rubber gasket sheet between the plate and the fiberglass. Makes just as solid a bond but it feels better to me to have just a tad of load evening material between the plate and the boat surface.
Just my 2 cents...
Serge
Ty 1700
s/v Cloning Around

demers@sgi.com

[Keith]

What I have read, polysulfide compounds are recommended for such a job, rather than polyurethane. Thus, don't use Sikaflex, it is polyurethane.

some polysulfides are: 3M 101; and BoatLife Life-Calk Sealant

Good idea. I use a bedding compound instead (usually sikaflex), which acts the same way. Your idea may be less expensive though..sure a lot less messy!

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

David,
I suspect that Larry is correct about the aluminum plates. However when we removed ours last time we put 1/8" black rubber gasket sheet between the plate and the fiberglass. Makes just as solid a bond but it feels better to me to have just a tad of load evening material between the plate and the boat surface.
Just my 2 cents...
Serge
Ty 1700
s/v Cloning Around

kwoodlaw@arkansas.net