No-skid and acetone????

[Tom]

The PO of my 1976 typhoon had obviously repainted the non-skid surfaces with a grit-based paint which is now in a very rough condition. In preparation of a major refurbishing project I thought I should clean the area with acetone, sand it smooth, and then reapply the non-skid paint and grit. However, when the acetone touched the old paint, it immediately turned to mush. I understand that acetone is a solvent, and that removing the paint is technically what it is supposed to do. My question is... Since I want to completely redo the non-skid, do I need to remove the old grit, and is it easier to do that by sanding, or should I use the acetone and basically just disolve the paint and non-skid (this would be a very messy operation). I plan to paint (2-part epoxy) the entire deck and hull.

As always, thanks for any advice and guidance.





srockaway@dcr.net

[Boyd]

Hi Tom...

Dont you just hate cleaning up after the PO? They always seem to leave a mess.

Never been in exactly the situation you describe however if you have a paint that is so fragile that acetone will soften it then it has to go before anything else goes on it. I think that your new paint will lift this old stuff and make an even bigger mess. I suggest one of the fiberglass paint removers followed by a strong washing solution of TSP and water. Thourough rinse and then a test wipe with the paint manufacturers recommened solvent. If you come up clean then prep and finish per paint specs.

Boyd

The PO of my 1976 typhoon had obviously repainted the non-skid surfaces with a grit-based paint which is now in a very rough condition. In preparation of a major refurbishing project I thought I should clean the area with acetone, sand it smooth, and then reapply the non-skid paint and grit. However, when the acetone touched the old paint, it immediately turned to mush. I understand that acetone is a solvent, and that removing the paint is technically what it is supposed to do. My question is... Since I want to completely redo the non-skid, do I need to remove the old grit, and is it easier to do that by sanding, or should I use the acetone and basically just disolve the paint and non-skid (this would be a very messy operation). I plan to paint (2-part epoxy) the entire deck and hull.

As always, thanks for any advice and guidance.

Tern30@aol.com

[Tom]

Boyd,

Do I need to use a special fiberglass paint remover or will any off-the-shelf paint remover work?


Thanks again....
Tom

Hi Tom...

Dont you just hate cleaning up after the PO? They always seem to leave a mess.

Never been in exactly the situation you describe however if you have a paint that is so fragile that acetone will soften it then it has to go before anything else goes on it. I think that your new paint will lift this old stuff and make an even bigger mess. I suggest one of the fiberglass paint removers followed by a strong washing solution of TSP and water. Thourough rinse and then a test wipe with the paint manufacturers recommened solvent. If you come up clean then prep and finish per paint specs.

Boyd

The PO of my 1976 typhoon had obviously repainted the non-skid surfaces with a grit-based paint which is now in a very rough condition. In preparation of a major refurbishing project I thought I should clean the area with acetone, sand it smooth, and then reapply the non-skid paint and grit. However, when the acetone touched the old paint, it immediately turned to mush. I understand that acetone is a solvent, and that removing the paint is technically what it is supposed to do. My question is... Since I want to completely redo the non-skid, do I need to remove the old grit, and is it easier to do that by sanding, or should I use the acetone and basically just disolve the paint and non-skid (this would be a very messy operation). I plan to paint (2-part epoxy) the entire deck and hull.

As always, thanks for any advice and guidance.

srockaway@dcr.net

[Boyd]

Tom...

Absolutely use only a fiberglass paint remover.....one specifically safe for gelcoat. The other stuff will eat right though your deck...destroying everything in its path..

Read carefully the new paint manufactures directions for preping. Each paint is its own set of rules. You said you were thinking about a 2 part epoxy. Are you thinking about Awlgrip? That stuff needs a special primer and is as runny as water and is expensive as h... All in all a tough paint to put on a deck. I suggest you research your options ... check with other board members for thier suggestions. The origional non skid on CD's I think was tinted gel coat thickened and put on with a roller to give it texture. Putting down Gel coat is probably easier than painting and you could get a close to origional look. Check with "This Old Boat" and Casey's other books. Hate to see some one make a mess out of a good boat. I have seen some really bad owner deck painting jobs which really hurt the boats value.

Boyd
s/v Tern
Fort Lauderdale, Fla

Boyd,

Do I need to use a special fiberglass paint remover or will any off-the-shelf paint remover work?


Thanks again....
Tom

Hi Tom...

Dont you just hate cleaning up after the PO? They always seem to leave a mess.

Never been in exactly the situation you describe however if you have a paint that is so fragile that acetone will soften it then it has to go before anything else goes on it. I think that your new paint will lift this old stuff and make an even bigger mess. I suggest one of the fiberglass paint removers followed by a strong washing solution of TSP and water. Thourough rinse and then a test wipe with the paint manufacturers recommened solvent. If you come up clean then prep and finish per paint specs.

Boyd

The PO of my 1976 typhoon had obviously repainted the non-skid surfaces with a grit-based paint which is now in a very rough condition. In preparation of a major refurbishing project I thought I should clean the area with acetone, sand it smooth, and then reapply the non-skid paint and grit. However, when the acetone touched the old paint, it immediately turned to mush. I understand that acetone is a solvent, and that removing the paint is technically what it is supposed to do. My question is... Since I want to completely redo the non-skid, do I need to remove the old grit, and is it easier to do that by sanding, or should I use the acetone and basically just disolve the paint and non-skid (this would be a very messy operation). I plan to paint (2-part epoxy) the entire deck and hull.

As always, thanks for any advice and guidance.

Tern30@aol.com

[sloopjohnl]

tom,
did all the non-skid on my deck and cockpit fall('00) and spring ('01). the PO had painted a non-skid paint also and it was pretty weeathered and beat. i sanded mine with 80 grit and a random-orbit sander. took about three hours and was only dusty. tape areas outside the non-skid when sanding. i repainted using a one-part urethane with a base coat primer and sprinkled in the non-skid. relatively easy project.

The PO of my 1976 typhoon had obviously repainted the non-skid surfaces with a grit-based paint which is now in a very rough condition. In preparation of a major refurbishing project I thought I should clean the area with acetone, sand it smooth, and then reapply the non-skid paint and grit. However, when the acetone touched the old paint, it immediately turned to mush. I understand that acetone is a solvent, and that removing the paint is technically what it is supposed to do. My question is... Since I want to completely redo the non-skid, do I need to remove the old grit, and is it easier to do that by sanding, or should I use the acetone and basically just disolve the paint and non-skid (this would be a very messy operation). I plan to paint (2-part epoxy) the entire deck and hull.

As always, thanks for any advice and guidance.