Rebedding the sea hood.....

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

Captains,

I spent this weekend stripping, sanding, and refinishing the framing around the companionway on Hanalei. As part of this, I removed the companionway hatch. When I did that and looked under the sea hood, I noticed a coating of black stuff that is probably mold. It was thick enough that I could scrape it off with a finger tip. I am concerned that this stuff might be a source of odor in the boat when all is buttoned up tight. So, I will remove the sea hood, and give that area a good scrubbing, something that has probably never been done.

The question is: What should I use to rebed the sea hood when I reinstall it. 3M 4200? Or what? I will probably never remove it again, but I would of course not use 3m 5200. Would appreciate your suggestions.

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30C

[John R.]

Usually an exposed joint that is broad dimensionally which fills a substantial gap (on deck and cosmetic in nature) such as that around the perimeter of the seahood is filled with silicone and is faired using a latex squeege. Make sure the teak is free from resins where the silicone will contact it or else the silcone bond will be compromised.

You could use polysulfide (better bond with the teak) but the white tends to hold dirt and does not stay as clean as the slippery shinny surface of silicone. Use a good quality silicone that has an anti mildew component.

A good way to cure the mildew problem that seems to always form on the underside of seahood is to repaint the underside and mix in a full bottle of anti-mildew paint additive to the paint you use.

Captains,

I spent this weekend stripping, sanding, and refinishing the framing around the companionway on Hanalei. As part of this, I removed the companionway hatch. When I did that and looked under the sea hood, I noticed a coating of black stuff that is probably mold. It was thick enough that I could scrape it off with a finger tip. I am concerned that this stuff might be a source of odor in the boat when all is buttoned up tight. So, I will remove the sea hood, and give that area a good scrubbing, something that has probably never been done.

The question is: What should I use to rebed the sea hood when I reinstall it. 3M 4200? Or what? I will probably never remove it again, but I would of course not use 3m 5200. Would appreciate your suggestions.

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30C

[Don Sargeant]

Dave,
I simply used Life-caulk. It seems just fine. (I cured it with Perrier, of course)

Don Sargeant
~~COQUINA~~
etc...

Captains,

I spent this weekend stripping, sanding, and refinishing the framing around the companionway on Hanalei. As part of this, I removed the companionway hatch. When I did that and looked under the sea hood, I noticed a coating of black stuff that is probably mold. It was thick enough that I could scrape it off with a finger tip. I am concerned that this stuff might be a source of odor in the boat when all is buttoned up tight. So, I will remove the sea hood, and give that area a good scrubbing, something that has probably never been done.

The question is: What should I use to rebed the sea hood when I reinstall it. 3M 4200? Or what? I will probably never remove it again, but I would of course not use 3m 5200. Would appreciate your suggestions.

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30C

[Larry Austin]

,,,,about once a season I also go in under the sea hood and clean that black stuff outta there. Instead of removeing the sea hood, I remove the "stops" and slide the companion hatch all the way out,,,,now you can get in under the sea hood with soap, water, etc. I stick my washing mit on the end of the boat pole to push the mit in the far corners,etc. Rinse with hose and all that black stuff comes flying out of the drains!!

,,,you can also clean about the last 2 or 3" under the companion way hatch ( the area you can never reach when it is installed in it's slides.)

Larry Austin
CD30MKII
LAYLA



laustin@us.ibm.com

[Gerry/ BarracudaCD25]

Just in case as I had to remove my hood(coach roof), I would use Life-caulk. I took mine apart cleaned and repainted it including companionway sliding hatch and reinstalled it with the teak rails rebedded. Two weeks later I did not like the sloppy fit due to wear and cracking damage. It came apart relatively easy and I had decided to core the sliding hatch with luan plywood and a couple layers of West System epoxy and fiberglass, wash blush, repaint, move the rails in closer, redrill the holes and reinstall with Life-caulk. Now if I inadvertantly stand on the sliding companionway hatch, it doesn't flex or give me the uncomfortable feeling that it may crack in half from my weight. I think Life-caulk came apart much easier than if I used 3M 4200 or silicone.

Gerry/BarracudaCD25
Upper Machodoc Creek, Potomac River, Dahlgren, VA

[John K.]

Larry

How did you remove the "stops"? I've looked at them and they appear to be secured by a bunged screw passing from the outside through the teak trim pieces. I didn't want to cut into the wood to remove those screws. Thanks

[Larry Austin]

hmmm,,,,ok, on mine there is a piece of black rubber about an inch long and the thickness of the "slide slot" This is the hatch stop. There are 2 small phillips head screws screwed thru the rubber and into the teak ,,if your stops are like mine,,you made need to look at the rubber stop closely,,,the screws because of the softness of the rubber "might" be set in the rubber a little.

,,,hope this helps

Larry Austin
CD30MKII
LAYLA



laustin@us.ibm.com

[BobM]

Captains,

I spent this weekend stripping, sanding, and refinishing the framing around the companionway on Hanalei. As part of this, I removed the companionway hatch. When I did that and looked under the sea hood, I noticed a coating of black stuff that is probably mold. It was thick enough that I could scrape it off with a finger tip. I am concerned that this stuff might be a source of odor in the boat when all is buttoned up tight. So, I will remove the sea hood, and give that area a good scrubbing, something that has probably never been done.

The question is: What should I use to rebed the sea hood when I reinstall it. 3M 4200? Or what? I will probably never remove it again, but I would of course not use 3m 5200. Would appreciate your suggestions.

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30C

=======================================
Dear Captain Sir:

I have done the procedure you described several times since acquiring
Ranger in 1986. Having learned from these experiences I would
recommend that you use Life Caulk (polysulfide) as it provides a
good bond with the teak. But first make absolutely sure it is
as clean as possible. I remove the old caulking then use a good
detergent to wash the area well followed by wiping it down
with alcohol. Now mind you sir that I do not drink the alcohol
but rather apply it as a final cleaning agent before applying
the Life Caulk. While this is drying I recommend that you seek
the seclusion of the cabin grants for a glass of VSOP.

With regard to the underside of the sea hood, unless you
repaint it and add a mildewcide to the paint I would
recommend mixing equal parts of washing detergent with clorox in
solution with water in a bucket and scrub the heck out of it.
Then rinse and reapply another application of this solution but
do not rinse this application and just let it air dry. This also
seems to work successfully on the siding on the north side of
our abode as it also has a tendency to get mildew over time.
Leaving the clorox solution on without a final rinse seems to keep
it clean for quite a while before your next adventure beneath
the sea hood. After this task has been completed I recommend
that you once again seek the seclusion of the cabin grants
for a glass of VSOP.

Submitted for your serious consideration, respectfully sir,

Capt Bob, VSOP
HMS Ranger
Sloop CD-25D



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