OK, I am about to bite the bullet and think about refinishing the exterior teak on Parfait. I know she will appreciate it, and so will her neighbors.
Does anyone want to try to convince me to use anything but Honey Teak? Must I buy it direct? How many square feet of exterior teak do we think there might be? Surely I don't need the 400 sq. ft. package, but is 50 enough?
Thanks,
Ken
PPparfait@nc.rr.com
How Many Sq. Ft. of Teak on a 36?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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D. Stump, Hanalei
Re: Ken, try Armada....
Captain Coit,
In my HUMBLE opinion as a pirate captain of some infamous reknown, I would recommend Armada Satin as the way to go. It is easy to get, stands up better than anything I have ever seen, is easy to apply(no runs, no drips, no errors). Also, it is cheap at approx. $20/qt. And it cleans up easily, with mineral spirits! I put three coats(recommended) on Hanalei's freshly sanded and black spot treated (see L. DeMers formula)teak at the beginning of last season and she looked as good at haulout as when I finished the job. One coat a year, and ya are done!
D. Stump
Hanalei
Oh, for three coats, probably 3 qts.
In my HUMBLE opinion as a pirate captain of some infamous reknown, I would recommend Armada Satin as the way to go. It is easy to get, stands up better than anything I have ever seen, is easy to apply(no runs, no drips, no errors). Also, it is cheap at approx. $20/qt. And it cleans up easily, with mineral spirits! I put three coats(recommended) on Hanalei's freshly sanded and black spot treated (see L. DeMers formula)teak at the beginning of last season and she looked as good at haulout as when I finished the job. One coat a year, and ya are done!
D. Stump
Hanalei
Oh, for three coats, probably 3 qts.
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charlie palumbo
Re: How Many Sq. Ft. of Teak on a 36?
Ken,Ken Coit wrote: OK, I am about to bite the bullet and think about refinishing the exterior teak on Parfait. I know she will appreciate it, and so will her neighbors.
Does anyone want to try to convince me to use anything but Honey Teak? Must I buy it direct? How many square feet of exterior teak do we think there might be? Surely I don't need the 400 sq. ft. package, but is 50 enough?
Honey teak is a nice product, producing a nice finish, but if you have the time and patience, I prefer epifanes varnish. I use the 500 mil cans...slightly more costly, but much more manageable.
as I am sure you know, owning a 36 is a full time job. The key to a great finish is the prepwork. Owning a 36, I find that the teakwork is more manageable and the finished product much nicer if you concentrate on one section per season......cockpit,dorades one season,toerails, handrails the next. If you do it all in one year, you are asking for an unbelievable amount of work....mostly prep.
In the prep stage,you may want to fill any deep gouges or rot with epoxy. west system 105/205 with 405 wood toned filler works well.
pick up a detail sander, and lots of blue safe release tape.
remove the tape after sanding and apply fresh tape before coating.
a vacuum cleaner and rattail brush are life savors. Wipe the wood thoroughly with denatured alcohol before coating. Above all....get comfortable kneepads and bengay for the house. good luck.
Charlie
Ken Coit wrote: Thanks,
Ken
jcp1347j@aol.com
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J. Chamberlain
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Brett Miller
Re: How Many Sq. Ft. of Teak on a 36?
Ken,
I'm currently engaged in the same enterprise. Indeed, I've been engaged in this for some MONTHS now (albeit on the weekends). We're just talking the toe rail, man!! As has been suggested, take it one stage at a time -- otherwise they'll find you curled up in the fetal position in the cockpit, covered with blue tape, sanding dust, and the brightwork finish of your choice.
After much consideration (and with the benefit of seeing with my own eyes Zeida's beautiful Honey Teaked CD33 in Miami), I've decided to go with Bristol Finish (basically the same as Honey Teak, but with slighly less coloration, as I understand it). The thing that sold me (notwithstanding the cost and the toxicity of the stuff) is the apparent durability of it -- I have been told that it does not require maintenance coats every year (only once every couple of years). This may sound too good to be true, but I'm going to by some shares of 3M at the end of the season if I start seeing light spots in the finish.
I haven't, however, put finish to teak yet, so I'm interested in the other responses here to see if I can be convinced that there's something better out there than HT/BF. Also, with regard to the quantity of surface area on the CD36, I haven't had the stomach to actually calculate it, but the 400 sq. ft. package sounded like WAAAAAY too much to me, so I'm going at it 50 at a time (although it does require at least 6 coats on the first application).
Good luck.
Brett
I'm currently engaged in the same enterprise. Indeed, I've been engaged in this for some MONTHS now (albeit on the weekends). We're just talking the toe rail, man!! As has been suggested, take it one stage at a time -- otherwise they'll find you curled up in the fetal position in the cockpit, covered with blue tape, sanding dust, and the brightwork finish of your choice.
After much consideration (and with the benefit of seeing with my own eyes Zeida's beautiful Honey Teaked CD33 in Miami), I've decided to go with Bristol Finish (basically the same as Honey Teak, but with slighly less coloration, as I understand it). The thing that sold me (notwithstanding the cost and the toxicity of the stuff) is the apparent durability of it -- I have been told that it does not require maintenance coats every year (only once every couple of years). This may sound too good to be true, but I'm going to by some shares of 3M at the end of the season if I start seeing light spots in the finish.
I haven't, however, put finish to teak yet, so I'm interested in the other responses here to see if I can be convinced that there's something better out there than HT/BF. Also, with regard to the quantity of surface area on the CD36, I haven't had the stomach to actually calculate it, but the 400 sq. ft. package sounded like WAAAAAY too much to me, so I'm going at it 50 at a time (although it does require at least 6 coats on the first application).
Good luck.
Brett
Ken Coit wrote: OK, I am about to bite the bullet and think about refinishing the exterior teak on Parfait. I know she will appreciate it, and so will her neighbors.
Does anyone want to try to convince me to use anything but Honey Teak? Must I buy it direct? How many square feet of exterior teak do we think there might be? Surely I don't need the 400 sq. ft. package, but is 50 enough?
Thanks,
Ken
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Jerry Axler
Re: How Many Sq. Ft. of Teak on a 36?
I agree with Capt. Stump about the use of Armada. Although two coats in the spring has been my choice for the last couple of seasons with another in the early fall for touch ups. Wear on the top of the coamings is the reason for the touch ups.Ken Coit wrote: OK, I am about to bite the bullet and think about refinishing the exterior teak on Parfait. I know she will appreciate it, and so will her neighbors.
Does anyone want to try to convince me to use anything but Honey Teak? Must I buy it direct? How many square feet of exterior teak do we think there might be? Surely I don't need the 400 sq. ft. package, but is 50 enough?
Thanks,
Ken
Jerry Axler
Shana CD36
cutter36@erols.com
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Mike Thorpe
Re: How Many Sq. Ft. of Teak on a 36?
Ken,
I stripped and refinished the exterior teak on Journeys End (CD-36 #144) last spring. It took me a week of 8 hour days to sand the teak, a full 8 hour day to mask it and 3 more days and 2 quarts to apply 3 coats of the basic cetol. I didn't put the gloss coat over the the base coat. It looked good, not as good as varnish, but then I'm not into pain. Some of the high wear surfaces need a touch up this spring which I will do and maybe I'll apply the gloss coat over everything. (I'm still not sure if I like the gloss finish.)
Bottom line the prep took me 8 days and application 3days and 2 quarts of cetol. Hope this helps.
Mike Thorpe
Journey's End
mthorpe@capecod.net
I stripped and refinished the exterior teak on Journeys End (CD-36 #144) last spring. It took me a week of 8 hour days to sand the teak, a full 8 hour day to mask it and 3 more days and 2 quarts to apply 3 coats of the basic cetol. I didn't put the gloss coat over the the base coat. It looked good, not as good as varnish, but then I'm not into pain. Some of the high wear surfaces need a touch up this spring which I will do and maybe I'll apply the gloss coat over everything. (I'm still not sure if I like the gloss finish.)
Bottom line the prep took me 8 days and application 3days and 2 quarts of cetol. Hope this helps.
Mike Thorpe
Journey's End
Ken Coit wrote: OK, I am about to bite the bullet and think about refinishing the exterior teak on Parfait. I know she will appreciate it, and so will her neighbors.
Does anyone want to try to convince me to use anything but Honey Teak? Must I buy it direct? How many square feet of exterior teak do we think there might be? Surely I don't need the 400 sq. ft. package, but is 50 enough?
Thanks,
Ken
mthorpe@capecod.net
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matt cawthorne
Re: How Many Sq. Ft. of Teak on a 36?
Ken,
Prior to completely ripping out my electrical system, sanding the bottom back to the barrier coat, ripping out the cabinetry in the head and the normal work chores, I was going to do the honey teak thing this year. My rough estimate was 130 square feet, but that does not include scrappage. If you get the whole thing prepared and want to buy it all at once I would get at least enough for 150 sq.ft. For me the HT thing will wait a little longer. Given the electrical system and bottom work this season the teak doesn't look like all that much work.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
Prior to completely ripping out my electrical system, sanding the bottom back to the barrier coat, ripping out the cabinetry in the head and the normal work chores, I was going to do the honey teak thing this year. My rough estimate was 130 square feet, but that does not include scrappage. If you get the whole thing prepared and want to buy it all at once I would get at least enough for 150 sq.ft. For me the HT thing will wait a little longer. Given the electrical system and bottom work this season the teak doesn't look like all that much work.
Matt
mcawthor@bellatlantic.net
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Ken Coit
Re: How Many Sq. Ft. of Teak on a 36?
Just for everyone's information or misguidance, the HT people called me after an email inquiry. They do sell direct. We got our heads together and estimated exterior teak area on a 36 to be around 50 sq. ft. with the coamings, hatch boards, toe rails, hand rails, and bow sprit. Cost for materials and other expendables plus a brush: around $120.
I am pausing to consider what I was proposing to do and I may just break out the Cetol from the locker and see what I can do with it. I don't like how orange it gets.
For those who are interested in pursuing this further, the link to Honey Teak is below.
Ken
PPPparfait@nc.rr.com
I am pausing to consider what I was proposing to do and I may just break out the Cetol from the locker and see what I can do with it. I don't like how orange it gets.
For those who are interested in pursuing this further, the link to Honey Teak is below.
Ken
matt cawthorne wrote: Ken,
Prior to completely ripping out my electrical system, sanding the bottom back to the barrier coat, ripping out the cabinetry in the head and the normal work chores, I was going to do the honey teak thing this year. My rough estimate was 130 square feet, but that does not include scrappage. If you get the whole thing prepared and want to buy it all at once I would get at least enough for 150 sq.ft. For me the HT thing will wait a little longer. Given the electrical system and bottom work this season the teak doesn't look like all that much work.
Matt
PPPparfait@nc.rr.com
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Bill Goldsmith
Re: How Many Sq. Ft. of Teak on a 36?
I started refinishing Second Chance's exterior teak with Honey Teak 2 years ago. So far, I have completed the tiller, toe/rubrails, bowsprit (large bowsprit--factory option) and cockpit coamings. Have not yet done the eyebrows, hatch sliders, dorade box or deck handholds.
It is quite possible that I was somewhat wasteful, but the 75 sq. ft. package only got me through the toe/rub rails and the bowsprit. I purchased another identical kit which has gotten me through the coamings as well as my CD10 dinghy (s/v "Another Chance") and it looks as though there is enough to do the rest of the deck teak, and spot repairs.
The honey teak product is very durable, and easily touched up. There are a couple of spots on my bowsprit where the anchor has gouged it, and the repair process goes as advertised in their instructions. (I may install a sacrificial strip of 1/4" teak there this year).
Honey Teak is expensive, but if you are good about applying the clearcoat annually it should outlast most other finishes.
Honey Teak is dark, kind of like "Golden Blossom" brand honey. But most comments I have gotten are complimentary. One varnish maven I know says it's the closest non-varnish product to look like varnish he has seen.
I undertand Bristol Finish is lighter, and therefore may look even more like real varnish, but I have not seen it applied. I uinderstand it may be a bit easier to apply. However, with Honey Teak, once you are done, you only apply clear coats in the future, except for repair/retouch areas. So a good Honey Teak application promises benefits in the future despite the relative complexity of initial application and the cost.
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 # 173
Second Chance
goldy@bestweb.net
It is quite possible that I was somewhat wasteful, but the 75 sq. ft. package only got me through the toe/rub rails and the bowsprit. I purchased another identical kit which has gotten me through the coamings as well as my CD10 dinghy (s/v "Another Chance") and it looks as though there is enough to do the rest of the deck teak, and spot repairs.
The honey teak product is very durable, and easily touched up. There are a couple of spots on my bowsprit where the anchor has gouged it, and the repair process goes as advertised in their instructions. (I may install a sacrificial strip of 1/4" teak there this year).
Honey Teak is expensive, but if you are good about applying the clearcoat annually it should outlast most other finishes.
Honey Teak is dark, kind of like "Golden Blossom" brand honey. But most comments I have gotten are complimentary. One varnish maven I know says it's the closest non-varnish product to look like varnish he has seen.
I undertand Bristol Finish is lighter, and therefore may look even more like real varnish, but I have not seen it applied. I uinderstand it may be a bit easier to apply. However, with Honey Teak, once you are done, you only apply clear coats in the future, except for repair/retouch areas. So a good Honey Teak application promises benefits in the future despite the relative complexity of initial application and the cost.
Bill Goldsmith
CD27 # 173
Second Chance
Ken Coit wrote: OK, I am about to bite the bullet and think about refinishing the exterior teak on Parfait. I know she will appreciate it, and so will her neighbors.
Does anyone want to try to convince me to use anything but Honey Teak? Must I buy it direct? How many square feet of exterior teak do we think there might be? Surely I don't need the 400 sq. ft. package, but is 50 enough?
Thanks,
Ken
goldy@bestweb.net
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Steve Alarcon
Re: How Many Sq. Ft. of Teak on a 36?
Ken,
I did the rub/toe rails, cockpit coaming, taffrail, eyebrows and bowsprit last year with Armada. I've used Armada for years because we don't get enough good weather here to allow me to keep up with varnish. Great results, easy to do, pretty resiliant. Prep is everything. In fact, I'd say 90% of the effort. Application of Armada is just about stupid proof, whereas you can really screw up the teak if you don't pay attention to the scraper. Once you get the base, up keep for the whole boat can be done in a week end. I won't use anything else.
I agree with Charlie P., break the project into manageable sections.
Steve Alarcon
CD36 Tenacity
Seattle
alarcon3@prodigy.net
I did the rub/toe rails, cockpit coaming, taffrail, eyebrows and bowsprit last year with Armada. I've used Armada for years because we don't get enough good weather here to allow me to keep up with varnish. Great results, easy to do, pretty resiliant. Prep is everything. In fact, I'd say 90% of the effort. Application of Armada is just about stupid proof, whereas you can really screw up the teak if you don't pay attention to the scraper. Once you get the base, up keep for the whole boat can be done in a week end. I won't use anything else.
I agree with Charlie P., break the project into manageable sections.
Steve Alarcon
CD36 Tenacity
Seattle
alarcon3@prodigy.net