For the past couple of season, in spite of what I thought was sufficient lapping, the Spartan thru hull intake in the head has a slight drip in the closed position after use. (I believe water sits above it in the hose to the throne) I was about to order a new tapered plug sea-cock, and one of the yard guys said to use a ball valve type instead. I admire the aesthetics of the Spartan casting, but the drip and maintenance free aspects of ball valve have an appeal - why not use one? (hope they didn't have 5200 back then when they bedded the wood backing pad, as I intend to replace it).
Advice appreciated, thanks, Tony B. Casco Bay, Maine
wildings@ncia.net
Aesthetics aside, why not?
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Ed Haley
Re: Aesthetics aside, why not?
Tony:
Unless you have a severe scratch or gouge in the seacock barrel or receiver, it sounds like you need to lap the seacock again. You are close to finishing the job but not quite there yet. When you begin the lapping process by applying the lapping compound to the barrel and inserting it into the receiver, place the limiting washer and nut back on and snug the nut. Give the barrel a full range of motion 3 or 4 times. Then (and this is most important) tighten the nut about a quarter turn and repeat the full range motion 3 or 4 times. Then tighten the nut 1/4 turn again. After a while, you will not be able to turn the barrel any more. Then you are finished. Disassemble and clean, grease and put her back together. I've done this dozens of times and the seacock never drips after this procedure is followed.
Hope this helps.
Ed Haley
Captain S/V Mokita
CD330 #1
eghaleyNOSPAM@twcny.rr.com
Unless you have a severe scratch or gouge in the seacock barrel or receiver, it sounds like you need to lap the seacock again. You are close to finishing the job but not quite there yet. When you begin the lapping process by applying the lapping compound to the barrel and inserting it into the receiver, place the limiting washer and nut back on and snug the nut. Give the barrel a full range of motion 3 or 4 times. Then (and this is most important) tighten the nut about a quarter turn and repeat the full range motion 3 or 4 times. Then tighten the nut 1/4 turn again. After a while, you will not be able to turn the barrel any more. Then you are finished. Disassemble and clean, grease and put her back together. I've done this dozens of times and the seacock never drips after this procedure is followed.
Hope this helps.
Ed Haley
Captain S/V Mokita
CD330 #1
eghaleyNOSPAM@twcny.rr.com
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Bristol Bronze
Re: Aesthetics aside, why not?
Dear Tony,Tony Betz wrote: For the past couple of season, in spite of what I thought was sufficient lapping, the Spartan thru hull intake in the head has a slight drip in the closed position after use. (I believe water sits above it in the hose to the throne) I was about to order a new tapered plug sea-cock, and one of the yard guys said to use a ball valve type instead. I admire the aesthetics of the Spartan casting, but the drip and maintenance free aspects of ball valve have an appeal - why not use one? (hope they didn't have 5200 back then when they bedded the wood backing pad, as I intend to replace it).
Advice appreciated, thanks, Tony B. Casco Bay, Maine
One good reason not to use a ball valve is that just about all the balls in bronze ball valves are made of alloy 360 Free Cutting Brass. This is a high zinc, high lead alloy that does not work well in salt water. In a previous life I was the East Coast sales engineer for the Nation's second largest producer of brass rod. Among my customers were many many valve manufacturers. I have sold millions of pounds of brass rod for use as balls.
The high zinc content of the metal means that the ball will act as a sacrificial annode in the galvanic process and will, in time, go away. For a valve being used ashore this will take many many years. Add in the corrosive properties of sea water and any stray electrical current that you have on your boat or in the water of your marina and the brass won't last long.
Before you replace any under water fitting find out who the manufacturer is and what alloy he uses. If the alloy contains more than 1% lead or more than 5% zinc, then find another manufacturer.
Roger W.
Bristol Bronze
401-625-5224
info@bristolbronze.com
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Ken Coit
Re: Aesthetics aside, why not?
Tony,
And some of us would tell you to use Morey's Red high pressure grease as well. I think it can make a difference in how closely lapped the surfaces must be.
Ken
CD/36 Parfait
Raleigh, NC
PPparfait@nc.rr.com
And some of us would tell you to use Morey's Red high pressure grease as well. I think it can make a difference in how closely lapped the surfaces must be.
Ken
CD/36 Parfait
Raleigh, NC
Ed Haley wrote: Tony:
Unless you have a severe scratch or gouge in the seacock barrel or receiver, it sounds like you need to lap the seacock again. You are close to finishing the job but not quite there yet. When you begin the lapping process by applying the lapping compound to the barrel and inserting it into the receiver, place the limiting washer and nut back on and snug the nut. Give the barrel a full range of motion 3 or 4 times. Then (and this is most important) tighten the nut about a quarter turn and repeat the full range motion 3 or 4 times. Then tighten the nut 1/4 turn again. After a while, you will not be able to turn the barrel any more. Then you are finished. Disassemble and clean, grease and put her back together. I've done this dozens of times and the seacock never drips after this procedure is followed.
Hope this helps.
Ed Haley
Captain S/V Mokita
CD330 #1
PPparfait@nc.rr.com