Stantion Removal

[Will W.]

Hi
I am sanding my toerail in preparation for finishing and I want to remove the stantions to get behind them. I also figure they are leaking a little.
I got a friend to come over to help with holding the screws while I tried to turn the nut from the bottom. No luck, there is not enough room for the wrenches to turn. Maybe a smaller rachet?
Then I tried to just hold the nut and turn the screws. No luck the screws don't move more than a few degrees.
The only solution I can come up with is to cut the head off the screws and then push the shaft down. In fact I may do this anyway because it will take about 1/50 the amout of time compared to turning each nut 1/8 of a turn per turn till it comes off.
Before I start cutting I just wanted to see what others have done to get their stantions off. Is there some hazzard that I am not thinking of in my proposed solution. Thanks as usual.

Will Wheatley
Suzi Q
CD25



willwheatley@starpower.net

[Bob Dugan]

Will,

I'm going to watch this thread closely... this fall I'm going to do some rebedding work and I'm curious to know how to do this.

Bob Dugan
Cricket
CD25D



bdugan@stepzero.com

[Robin Meigel]

I rebedded stantions last year on my CD 27. It is a two person job and some are easier to get at than others. I was able to use extensions for my socket wrenches to get at the nuts in awkward locations. It is tedious work but very gratifying when done. It took the better part of the day to remove them and the better part of the next day to put them back on - but I'm an amateur. Nevertheless, I can understand why the labor charge is high if a yard does the work. The good news in your description is that the screws turned a little - that tells me they are not cemented in with 5200!

When reinstalling, I all but tightened down the screws all around - leaving a bit while the bedding compound set up - then 3 hours later we went around and really torqued them down. I had taped around the edges so that when the bedding compound squeezed out it was easier to clean up.



robin.meigel@alumnae.brynmawr.edu

[mike]

Bob:
The 25d is pretty straight forward. I just did all of my last year. It helps to have a 14 year old son who can crawl up on the galley and wedge his hand into small places.
Best suggestion. Use power tools. battery charged screwdrivers, and rachetts make the job almost pleasant. Use latex gloves. The sealant gets on everything below deck.
Also, Instead of socket extensions, use deep sockets. These will fit over the bolt that stick down below deck, and still grip the nut for removal.
Good Luck,

Mike



mwankum@tribune.com

[Larry DeMers]

Good Job! Perfect procedure. Did it all turn out as you expected?

By the way, 3M5200 is somewhat elastic, so some movement in the screw does not indicate anything about the sealer used. It will still move somewhat with 5200, or 4200 for that matter...it just will not come apart readily.

The threads are probably coated over with the sealant, and that is why the screw/nut seem to be so stubborn.

Cheers,

Larry DeMers
s/v DeLaMer
Cape Dory 30

I rebedded stantions last year on my CD 27. It is a two person job and some are easier to get at than others. I was able to use extensions for my socket wrenches to get at the nuts in awkward locations. It is tedious work but very gratifying when done. It took the better part of the day to remove them and the better part of the next day to put them back on - but I'm an amateur. Nevertheless, I can understand why the labor charge is high if a yard does the work. The good news in your description is that the screws turned a little - that tells me they are not cemented in with 5200!

When reinstalling, I all but tightened down the screws all around - leaving a bit while the bedding compound set up - then 3 hours later we went around and really torqued them down. I had taped around the edges so that when the bedding compound squeezed out it was easier to clean up.

demers@sgi.com

[JimL]

I had the same problem on my CD25. When my friend and I tried to loosen the nuts, the screwdriver slot (in screw head) stripped (as the screw started rotating with nut) and we couldn't hold it. The solution was very simple. Using a deep 7/16" socket and ratchet, start TIGHTENING the nuts. The screw head (and screwdriver) will stay put because the threads are not glued or jammed above the nut and washer. Keep tightening until the old stainless screw snaps off (it doesn't take much, believe me). I replaced with counter-sunk socket head screws. Allen type wrenches will hold better than a screwdriver when the time comes to break these off!
Remember, stainless hardware isn't nearly as strong as regular steel, so use caution when tightining up Nylock nuts. The elastic point is very narrow and difficult to feel.



leinfam@earthlink.net