Hello to All;
I was out grooming Karma this weekend and noticed, after looking in the bilge, that the bonding connections to the interior 'dynaplate' were corroded. Additionally, the dynaplate was painted over with bilge paint from the previous owner. I have read that the exterior dynaplate, to which this one is presumed connected, must not be painted over with bottom paint, but be exposed to the sea. Should the interior plate also be exposed? And what about those corroded connections? Is there a best way to clean 'em up? TIA
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D "Karma"
'82, #63
louosten@ipass.net
Dynaplate Dynamics and Other Stuff
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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len
Re: Dynaplate Dynamics and Other Stuff
lou
my understanding is that the exterior plate should not be painted over because it has thousands of teeny holes to increase the surface area and the paint defeats that - except for SSB type applications i doubt if it is critical, you could just sand the paint off and at least have some surface to contact the water - it's also not difficult to change the whole plate, they are just bolted through the hull, have bonding on the back etc. -
len
md.frel@nwh.org
my understanding is that the exterior plate should not be painted over because it has thousands of teeny holes to increase the surface area and the paint defeats that - except for SSB type applications i doubt if it is critical, you could just sand the paint off and at least have some surface to contact the water - it's also not difficult to change the whole plate, they are just bolted through the hull, have bonding on the back etc. -
len
md.frel@nwh.org
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John R.
Re: Dynaplate Dynamics and Other Stuff
There shouldn't be an interior dynaplate in the first place. If there is one like you say don't worry about the bilge paint. A dynaplate on the interior serves absolutely no purpose.
All you should have showing on the interior of the bilge is the two bolt studs which secure the dynaplate to the exterior of the hull. One of the studs is your ground connection (bolt sealed to the exterior plate with gold sizing) and the other stud is just that, a bare stud, don't use it for anything.
The exterior dynaplate should remain free of any coating whatsoever, bottom paint, grease, or anything else. It is a molded plate of sintered bronze balls. It's design and fabrication allows water to penetrate and surround the tiny bronze balls in effect creating a much greater grounding surface area. It must stay bare.
Obviously the corroded ground connections need to be cleaned up completely. Disassemble, thoroughly clean and reassemble them. Reassemble using Lanocote or other waterproof dielectric grease or use a lubricating anticorrosive like Corrosion X.
All you should have showing on the interior of the bilge is the two bolt studs which secure the dynaplate to the exterior of the hull. One of the studs is your ground connection (bolt sealed to the exterior plate with gold sizing) and the other stud is just that, a bare stud, don't use it for anything.
The exterior dynaplate should remain free of any coating whatsoever, bottom paint, grease, or anything else. It is a molded plate of sintered bronze balls. It's design and fabrication allows water to penetrate and surround the tiny bronze balls in effect creating a much greater grounding surface area. It must stay bare.
Obviously the corroded ground connections need to be cleaned up completely. Disassemble, thoroughly clean and reassemble them. Reassemble using Lanocote or other waterproof dielectric grease or use a lubricating anticorrosive like Corrosion X.
Lou Ostendorff wrote: Hello to All;
I was out grooming Karma this weekend and noticed, after looking in the bilge, that the bonding connections to the interior 'dynaplate' were corroded. Additionally, the dynaplate was painted over with bilge paint from the previous owner. I have read that the exterior dynaplate, to which this one is presumed connected, must not be painted over with bottom paint, but be exposed to the sea. Should the interior plate also be exposed? And what about those corroded connections? Is there a best way to clean 'em up? TIA
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D "Karma"
'82, #63
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Ed Haley
Re: Dynaplate Dynamics and Other Stuff
A great way to clean off the dynaplate without removing it is to use one of those brass bristle wheels that can be attached to your drill. It removes bottom paint, barnacles or anything else adhering to the plate.
Ed Haley
Captain Mokita
CD330 #1
eghaley@twcny.rr.com
Ed Haley
Captain Mokita
CD330 #1
eghaley@twcny.rr.com
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Frank Vernet
Pitted Dynaplate
An inspection of Sirius' dynaplate revealed a lot of pitting and corrosion - to the point where I initially thought it was a zinc! How often should the plate be replaced and does pitting indicate some sort of electrical problem?
Frank Vernet
CO Sirius
CD33 #84
frank.vernet@mda.osd.mil
Frank Vernet
CO Sirius
CD33 #84
frank.vernet@mda.osd.mil
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John R.
Re: Pitted Dynaplate
Frank,
You may be confusing what you think is pitting with the porosity of the plate itself. The plate is made from hundreds if not thousands of bronze balls, small gaps and crevices appear between the sintered balls which is normal. These plates are not a solid smooth surface. They are porous, that may appear as pitting to some people but in fact it is not.
I suggest you go look at a new one so you can see what yours should look like.
You may be confusing what you think is pitting with the porosity of the plate itself. The plate is made from hundreds if not thousands of bronze balls, small gaps and crevices appear between the sintered balls which is normal. These plates are not a solid smooth surface. They are porous, that may appear as pitting to some people but in fact it is not.
I suggest you go look at a new one so you can see what yours should look like.
Frank Vernet wrote: An inspection of Sirius' dynaplate revealed a lot of pitting and corrosion - to the point where I initially thought it was a zinc! How often should the plate be replaced and does pitting indicate some sort of electrical problem?
Frank Vernet
CO Sirius
CD33 #84
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Lou Ostendorff
Dynaplate
Thanks John, for your comments;
I'm thinking now that what I saw in Karma's bilge might be a wooden backup block for the studs...it appears to be epoxied to the side of the inside wall; anyway, I have two sets of wires coming from bow and stern, connected to both studs...according to your previous post, the stud with the gold sizing is the one all wires should lead to...don't know which one it might be...I also experimented with a 'pickeling solution' of vinegar to clean up the corroded cable connectors; works great as long as you neutralize the acid solution later with baking soda; after reconnecting, I coated with dielectric grease...according to the ohmmeter, it's a good connection again. Thanks.
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D "Karma"
'82, #63
louosten@ipass.net
I'm thinking now that what I saw in Karma's bilge might be a wooden backup block for the studs...it appears to be epoxied to the side of the inside wall; anyway, I have two sets of wires coming from bow and stern, connected to both studs...according to your previous post, the stud with the gold sizing is the one all wires should lead to...don't know which one it might be...I also experimented with a 'pickeling solution' of vinegar to clean up the corroded cable connectors; works great as long as you neutralize the acid solution later with baking soda; after reconnecting, I coated with dielectric grease...according to the ohmmeter, it's a good connection again. Thanks.
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D "Karma"
'82, #63
louosten@ipass.net
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John R.
Re: Dynaplate
Lou,
I don't know how old the dynaplate is in your boat but you can usually tell which bolt is the correct one to connect to because it has a goldish plated finish and the other one that is just a securement bolt is just burnished bronze like any typical bronze bolt. The next question is did the installer use the vial of gold size when they installed the thing in the first place? If they did use it did they put it on the correct bolt? Those are questions we can't answer, at least I can't. next time you haul her you might disassemble th entire thing, order a new vial of gold size and reinstall the proper way and then rest assured you have proper grounding.
I don't know how old the dynaplate is in your boat but you can usually tell which bolt is the correct one to connect to because it has a goldish plated finish and the other one that is just a securement bolt is just burnished bronze like any typical bronze bolt. The next question is did the installer use the vial of gold size when they installed the thing in the first place? If they did use it did they put it on the correct bolt? Those are questions we can't answer, at least I can't. next time you haul her you might disassemble th entire thing, order a new vial of gold size and reinstall the proper way and then rest assured you have proper grounding.
Lou Ostendorff wrote: Thanks John, for your comments;
I'm thinking now that what I saw in Karma's bilge might be a wooden backup block for the studs...it appears to be epoxied to the side of the inside wall; anyway, I have two sets of wires coming from bow and stern, connected to both studs...according to your previous post, the stud with the gold sizing is the one all wires should lead to...don't know which one it might be...I also experimented with a 'pickeling solution' of vinegar to clean up the corroded cable connectors; works great as long as you neutralize the acid solution later with baking soda; after reconnecting, I coated with dielectric grease...according to the ohmmeter, it's a good connection again. Thanks.
Lou Ostendorff
CD25D "Karma"
'82, #63