Varnish Be Gone???

[Robert]

Hello again from the novice who loves his boat (CD22). I am trying to refinish some companionway hatches that have some pretty badly deteriorated varnish on them. What's the most efficient, best way to remove the old varnish? The guy at the boat supply store told me acetone but when I applied it, it didn't appear to do much. I know I can sand the hell out of it but don't want to damage the wood unnecessarily.

I am sure one (or all?) of you salty sages knows the answer.

I am, as usual, grateful.



robertlyles@home.com

[Brett Miller]

After spending the past two weekends engaged in this activity, I can vouch for the efficacy of a heat gun and a scraper. Heat until the varnish bubbles slightly, pull the old varnish off, followed by necessary sanding. You need to be a little careful to make sure you don't burn the wood (those heat guns are hot as heck -- a benefit when you are doing this outside in 35 deg. temps.), but it's easy to get the hang of it.

Hello again from the novice who loves his boat (CD22). I am trying to refinish some companionway hatches that have some pretty badly deteriorated varnish on them. What's the most efficient, best way to remove the old varnish? The guy at the boat supply store told me acetone but when I applied it, it didn't appear to do much. I know I can sand the hell out of it but don't want to damage the wood unnecessarily.

I am sure one (or all?) of you salty sages knows the answer.

I am, as usual, grateful.

[Will W.]

Hey Robert
I just finished redoing all my exterior wood. It had been many years and the wood beneath the varnish was silvering. I sanded the hell out of them and they look great. I don't think a chemical stripper is the thing here because it won't give you a uniform appearance on the surface of the wood. The places where varnish had been in tact would be a different shade than spots where varnish was gone which will be still different from the places where silvering had started. This is of course if acetone doesn't just turn the old varnish into a difficult paste. I used a power sander, one of those cheap pad sander deals. when I first went at it I was affraid I might be doing something wrong but evetually a shiny, uniform, and detailed grain surface will appear on the boards. Then wipe with damp cloth and let dry and you are ready to varnish.
I have used chemical removers on antique trim work when I did not want to sand out the details carved in the trim but I don't have any wood work that fancy on Suzi Q. If you do have custom fancy wood trim by all means preserve it. Lynseed oil works wonders but acetone might do the same thing.
Frankly acetone even if it does work sounds like overkill. A little like pouring acid on an ink stain on your finger instead of just scrubbing for a minute with soap. A little bit of the environmentalist in me comes out here too. Acetone is nasty stuff. I would think twice before asking that person's advice again. JMTCFWTAW

Will Wheatley
Suzi Q
CD25

Hello again from the novice who loves his boat (CD22). I am trying to refinish some companionway hatches that have some pretty badly deteriorated varnish on them. What's the most efficient, best way to remove the old varnish? The guy at the boat supply store told me acetone but when I applied it, it didn't appear to do much. I know I can sand the hell out of it but don't want to damage the wood unnecessarily.

I am sure one (or all?) of you salty sages knows the answer.

I am, as usual, grateful.

willwheatley@starpower.net

[Mike Raehl]

Bob, I'm also a novice with a new boat, Typhoon #1958. I gave her a new name and had to remove the old, painted on name. At the recommendation of the marine supply store, I used Interstrip 299E from Interlux which is safe on fiberglass. Later, I decided to refinsh the tiller which had some badly deteriorated varnish on it. The Interstrip also removes varnish from wood so I used it on the tiller with good results. The advantage I see is if you get to refinishing wood on the boat, such as the coamings, handrails and toe rails, any stripper that runs onto the fiberglass shouldn't cause damage before you can clean it up. Follow the directions on the can and be patient.
Mike



mikeraehl@telocity.com

[Ed Haley]

There is probably a lacquer coating underneath the old varnish that you'll have to sand. Use an flat vibrating sander. Do both sides or the boards will warp. Then clean the teak once or twice with 20% solution of Clorox and water and dry thoroughly. Lightly sand some more and use a tack cloth to remove dust. Then varnish or use Cetol or whatever. Use a quality badger hair brush so you can put down a thin coat of varnish. I'd apply 6 or 7 light coats on both sides. Between coats, use a green scotch pad to dull the finish and smooth out blips. Then use a tack cloth to pick up the small dust particles.

If the varnish is thick, I'd use Strip-ese to remove the varnish and then sand.

There's many ways to remove the varnish and this is only one method. All methods require elbow grease. The better one prepares the surfaces, the nicer the end result.



eghaley@twcny.rr.com

[Richard Gelfand]

Heat gun and scraper is the method that I used to take all the varvish off my CD27 when I first purchased her. Great results. The extra benifit is that once you do this you will not want to have to do it again, which will keep you honest in maintaining the new finish that you apply. I love the look of varnish, but I am intregued by those that advocate Honey Teak and may try that product at some time in the future.



aldajon@aol.com

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

Captain,

You are only doing the companion way boards right? If so, take 'em home, hit 'em with the cheapest paint stripper you can find, scrape off the gook, wipe down with mineral spirits, let dry,(if you see a lot of little black specks you may want to use Captain DeMers chemistry set to remove them!) sand with oh, maybe 220 grit, and then refinish with "Tough Shield"! You will NOT need to redo the boards for at least three years! For the Tough Shield, two coats of part A, and as many as you want of B(you will eventually get tired of trying to get them perfect, and yes, you do need to do one side at a time.) By tough Shield at marine stores or, if you can't find it, I will sell you some, as I have extra. I strongly believe in KISS....your humble servant..........

Dave Stump
Captain Commanding
s/v Hanalei CD-30C
CDSOA #1

[Ron Musk]

Hey Robert
I just finished redoing all my exterior wood. It had been many years and the wood beneath the varnish was silvering. I sanded the hell out of them and they look great. I don't think a chemical stripper is the thing here because it won't give you a uniform appearance on the surface of the wood. The places where varnish had been in tact would be a different shade than spots where varnish was gone which will be still different from the places where silvering had started. This is of course if acetone doesn't just turn the old varnish into a difficult paste. I used a power sander, one of those cheap pad sander deals. when I first went at it I was affraid I might be doing something wrong but evetually a shiny, uniform, and detailed grain surface will appear on the boards. Then wipe with damp cloth and let dry and you are ready to varnish.
I have used chemical removers on antique trim work when I did not want to sand out the details carved in the trim but I don't have any wood work that fancy on Suzi Q. If you do have custom fancy wood trim by all means preserve it. Lynseed oil works wonders but acetone might do the same thing.
Frankly acetone even if it does work sounds like overkill. A little like pouring acid on an ink stain on your finger instead of just scrubbing for a minute with soap. A little bit of the environmentalist in me comes out here too. Acetone is nasty stuff. I would think twice before asking that person's advice again. JMTCFWTAW

Will Wheatley
Suzi Q
CD25

Hello again from the novice who loves his boat (CD22). I am trying to refinish some companionway hatches that have some pretty badly deteriorated varnish on them. What's the most efficient, best way to remove the old varnish? The guy at the boat supply store told me acetone but when I applied it, it didn't appear to do much. I know I can sand the hell out of it but don't want to damage the wood unnecessarily.

I am sure one (or all?) of you salty sages knows the answer.

I am, as usual, grateful.

Just a few comments in response to Mr.Wheatley.Chemical strippers do a fine job of removing old finish,they must however be used with proper care and caution,then neutralized.Sanding or scraping(w/a cabinet type scraper)will bring out a uniform surface.And most importantly,by all means do not wipe the wood down with a damp rag-it will raise the grain.Before finishing teak,weather stripped or new wipe it down with acetone.The new finish will adhere much better to the teak if the oils and minerals characteristic of this wood are less apparent.
These chemicals are indeed toxic but used with proper precautions I find produce superior results.
Ron Musk
CD30 "R&R"



ccerre@massed.net

[Will W.]

Hi Ron
Thanks for the info. Indeed there are several jobs where it eould be rediculous to attempt without the assistance of the proper chemical. I did not mean to sound completely anti-chemical. I just try to use them sparingly. As the manager of an oganic restaurant( food grown/produced with no chemical fertilizers, growth hormones etc.) in DC I must confess to being somewhat biased on this issue.

Will Wheatley
Suzi Q
CD25

Hey Robert
I just finished redoing all my exterior wood. It had been many years and the wood beneath the varnish was silvering. I sanded the hell out of them and they look great. I don't think a chemical stripper is the thing here because it won't give you a uniform appearance on the surface of the wood. The places where varnish had been in tact would be a different shade than spots where varnish was gone which will be still different from the places where silvering had started. This is of course if acetone doesn't just turn the old varnish into a difficult paste. I used a power sander, one of those cheap pad sander deals. when I first went at it I was affraid I might be doing something wrong but evetually a shiny, uniform, and detailed grain surface will appear on the boards. Then wipe with damp cloth and let dry and you are ready to varnish.
I have used chemical removers on antique trim work when I did not want to sand out the details carved in the trim but I don't have any wood work that fancy on Suzi Q. If you do have custom fancy wood trim by all means preserve it. Lynseed oil works wonders but acetone might do the same thing.
Frankly acetone even if it does work sounds like overkill. A little like pouring acid on an ink stain on your finger instead of just scrubbing for a minute with soap. A little bit of the environmentalist in me comes out here too. Acetone is nasty stuff. I would think twice before asking that person's advice again. JMTCFWTAW

Will Wheatley
Suzi Q
CD25

Hello again from the novice who loves his boat (CD22). I am trying to refinish some companionway hatches that have some pretty badly deteriorated varnish on them. What's the most efficient, best way to remove the old varnish? The guy at the boat supply store told me acetone but when I applied it, it didn't appear to do much. I know I can sand the hell out of it but don't want to damage the wood unnecessarily.

I am sure one (or all?) of you salty sages knows the answer.

I am, as usual, grateful.

Just a few comments in response to Mr.Wheatley.Chemical strippers do a fine job of removing old finish,they must however be used with proper care and caution,then neutralized.Sanding or scraping(w/a cabinet type scraper)will bring out a uniform surface.And most importantly,by all means do not wipe the wood down with a damp rag-it will raise the grain.Before finishing teak,weather stripped or new wipe it down with acetone.The new finish will adhere much better to the teak if the oils and minerals characteristic of this wood are less apparent.
These chemicals are indeed toxic but used with proper precautions I find produce superior results.
Ron Musk
CD30 "R&R"

willwheatley@starpower.net

[Hanalei]

Will,

You are NOT going to eat your batter boards, I would hope! Try the Tough Shield, and the stripper, you will like them, but, they will not TASTE good!

Hanalei

[Will W.]

I wonder if honey teak would taste better. The name seems to imply so. Will

Will,

You are NOT going to eat your batter boards, I would hope! Try the Tough Shield, and the stripper, you will like them, but, they will not TASTE good!

Hanalei

willwheatley@starpower.net

[Chris Anderson]

Brett,

If I use a heat gun to remove varnish, do I have to worry about fumes? I will be working on my companionway boards in my basement workshop.

Thanks,
Chris
CD25D

[Ron Musk]

Brett,

If I use a heat gun to remove varnish, do I have to worry about fumes? I will be working on my companionway boards in my basement workshop.

Thanks,
Chris
CD25D

Chris,
You bet you'll have to be concerned with fumes.The proper filter in your respirator will benefit you greatly-although you will probably stink up the house.I dont know if the fumes or the odor of stripper is worse but you do need to be concerned with ventilation.Water-based strippers are less offensive but dont work as well.I think citrus based strippers are a bit more effective than the water based,but the nasty old standby that will burn your skin,meth.chloride based stripper does the most effcient job outside of burning it off.IMHO. -USE PROPER PROTECTION-respirator,gloves,eyewear.
Ron Musk
CD30C
W.Harwich,Ma.



ccerre@massed.net

[Robert]

What about using just a cabinetmakers scraper? The rectangle shaped piece of metal with a burr edge. No chemicals, no fumes, no noise and no sanding dust. Getting the burr edge is abit tricky but once learned you will find many uses for this invaluable tool.
Cheers,
Robert



rjohn12@midsouth.rr.com