Any tips / ideas on removing,,,

[Larry Austin]

the flange on the prop shaft? I thought of putting some kind of spacer between the two flanges ( on the shafts ) and slowly tighten up the flange bolts hopeing to pull the flange off the prop shaft. Bad idea?

I'm replacing the stuff box hose and clamps.

Thanks

Larry Austin
CD30MKII
LAYLA



laustin@us.ibm.com

[D. Stump, Hanalei]

Captain Austin,

I believe others have put a socket between the two shafts, and done just what you said. But, not actually having done it myself, maybe you should search the site.

D. Stump, Hanalei
CD-30

[mike]

Larry:
That's exactly how you do it. Be careful that the socket/spacer doesn't turn sideways. Otherwise, you'll crush the socket, and but a notch in the flange.

Mike



mwankum@tribune.com

[Tom]

That's the way you do it, but a word of caution. Sometimes they really get stuck on there. It IS possible to break the flange by putting excessive force on there. Be sure to tighten evenly and if it just won't move there is a limit to how much force you want to put on the flange ears. Sometimes you have to saw the prop shaft in half with a sawzall to get it out and then put the flange in a hydraulic press to press the end of the broken shaft out. That's what I had to do and then replace the shaft with a new one. Sometimes heating the flange will help too and soak it with penetrating oil the day before you try. The rest of it is easy. Getting the flange off the shaft is the challenge.

the flange on the prop shaft? I thought of putting some kind of spacer between the two flanges ( on the shafts ) and slowly tighten up the flange bolts hopeing to pull the flange off the prop shaft. Bad idea?

I'm replacing the stuff box hose and clamps.

Thanks

Larry Austin
CD30MKII
LAYLA

TomCambria@mindspring.com

[Larry Austin]

nm



laustin@us.ibm.com

[len]

larry

i've had to remove my prop/shaft twice and was unable to get the flange off either time, had to cut through the shaft - the machine shop told me it took something like 1000 pounds of pressure to pop the end of the shaft out of the flange (which they were then able to sand etc) -

have fun!

len



md.frel@nwh.org

[len]

larry

are you replacing the cutlass bearing also? - i recommend it, it is easier than the rest of the job and a new one only costs about $50

len



md.frel@nwh.org

[Larry Austin]

it. I was only planning on replacing the stuff hose because there seems to be some cracks appearing on the ends. I only have about 270 total hours on the motor and I think time has more to do with the cracks then usage. But then that may be true with the shaft bearing too, but there is hardly any play. If i have to cut the shaft i will change that out. I think the flange should come off ( I'll let you know tomorrow) because it seems to clean around there...no corrosion.
,,,now,,,having said that!!

Larry
CD30MKII
LAYLA



laustin@us.ibm.com

[mike]

Larry:
Most shops will just cut the prop shaft. It's cheaper and easier for a shop just to put a new one in. If you have to pay a maintance guy to climb in there, upside down and clamp down onthose bolts to it pops loose, it gets ver expessive. Cheaper to have them sawzall it out, and put a new one in.
For the do it yourselfer it just takes time, and a lot of banged up fingers.

Mike
P.S. When you replace the shaft back, I've got a few tips for you. Just think BBQ, and cold beer. I'll explain if needed.



mwankum@tribune.com

[Boyd]

Hi Larry...

Noticed several posts recommending the socket and bolts technique for pulling a flange. This is a very dangerous practice. The transmission has 4 "ears" on the end of it and if you either break or bend one then you are facing major expenses to repair. I cut mine off with a sawsall. It was a long and ugly proceedure but ultimately less risky than potential damage to the transmission flange.

Boyd.

the flange on the prop shaft? I thought of putting some kind of spacer between the two flanges ( on the shafts ) and slowly tighten up the flange bolts hopeing to pull the flange off the prop shaft. Bad idea?

I'm replacing the stuff box hose and clamps.

Thanks

Larry Austin
CD30MKII
LAYLA

Tern30@aol.com