I received many requests for the :non-caulking coaming mount method" (MANY!) and some questions about my blue non-skid. Here's how I did the non-skid.
The original light blue was streaky and stained from long exposure to desert sun. I couldn't find a blue I liked, so I mixed my own. Here's what I used (as seen in the pictures many of you received):
5 ounces of Petit Easypoxy Bikini Blue, #3229
1 ounce of Petit Easypoxy Semi-Gloss White, #3106
The result is a little brighter blue than original, but close enough that it covers in one thin coat. If you want it lighter, add 1 more ounce of the white. It dries semi-gloss, so it doesn't look "home-made and tacky".
Be sure to use fine-line masking tape and press the lap joints down very tightly. I've also had great luck using colored plastic tape, for masking tape. It leaves a great edge, and will bend corners better than masking tapes. It is more difficult to pull long straights with, however. One more note about masking.....
For those seeking the "awesome" finish, here's a trick with masking. After carefully masking the area to be painted, thin some paint of the underlying color (like the white fiberglass), then paint a very thin coat around the contact line of the tape. After it sets to tack, paint your desired color within the tape lines (which will paint over the freshly applied base color). When the tape is pulled up, the background color will appear to be "raised" with the new color lapped in! Practice on some scrap pieces, to learn when to paint, and when to pull tape. Done right, you'll get razor sharp lines (no I didn't bother on my own boat....but I use it often on classic motorcycle repairs).
leinfam@earthlink.net
Color mix for blue non-skid repaint
Moderator: Jim Walsh
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Steve Ingmire
Re: Color mix for blue non-skid repaint
How did you prep the surface prior to painting?JimL wrote: I received many requests for the :non-caulking coaming mount method" (MANY!) and some questions about my blue non-skid. Here's how I did the non-skid.
The original light blue was streaky and stained from long exposure to desert sun. I couldn't find a blue I liked, so I mixed my own. Here's what I used (as seen in the pictures many of you received):
5 ounces of Petit Easypoxy Bikini Blue, #3229
1 ounce of Petit Easypoxy Semi-Gloss White, #3106
The result is a little brighter blue than original, but close enough that it covers in one thin coat. If you want it lighter, add 1 more ounce of the white. It dries semi-gloss, so it doesn't look "home-made and tacky".
Be sure to use fine-line masking tape and press the lap joints down very tightly. I've also had great luck using colored plastic tape, for masking tape. It leaves a great edge, and will bend corners better than masking tapes. It is more difficult to pull long straights with, however. One more note about masking.....
For those seeking the "awesome" finish, here's a trick with masking. After carefully masking the area to be painted, thin some paint of the underlying color (like the white fiberglass), then paint a very thin coat around the contact line of the tape. After it sets to tack, paint your desired color within the tape lines (which will paint over the freshly applied base color). When the tape is pulled up, the background color will appear to be "raised" with the new color lapped in! Practice on some scrap pieces, to learn when to paint, and when to pull tape. Done right, you'll get razor sharp lines (no I didn't bother on my own boat....but I use it often on classic motorcycle repairs).
I have a 1977 27 it also has lt blue non skid areas that are streaked, I'm still not sure if I want to paint over or not
chiping@tcol.net
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JimL
Re: prepping for non-skid repaint
STEP ONE: I scrubbed the non-skid using white Scotch Brite pad (the white is much less abrasive than other pads). I used "Barkeepers Friend" scouring powder (from the grocery store). This cleaner includes oxalic acid for lifting iron particle fallout (rust) embedded in the gel coat. This is an important step, because rust particles will grow and lift, under your new paint. This is also a recommended cleaner for teak, prior to refinishing.
Oxalic acid wash is also available from auto refinishing suppliers, for rinsing rust particles out of areas you don't want to sand. Most new car dealers can tell you where to get some, as iron particle fallout is what makes the little orange spots in white paint. Do NOT try to polish it off, you'll only drive it deeper.
CAUTION: Do not use this scouring powder cleaner/pad combination on your white gelcoat or it will take a lot of repolishing. I used it on mine, but my boat is better off looking "classicaly used" (it's really been beat).
STEP TWO: Clean the entire non-skid surface with wax remover. This is the stuff you use on bare fiberglass before applying the bottom paint primer. Use the blue paper towel from the auto parts store (comes on large rolls). Do NOT use plain paper towels. The wax remover breaks down the starch binders in the paper, and leaves it on the surface.
CAUTION: Wear a decent mask, with the activated charcoal filters. They don't cost much, are easy to use, and will keep you out of the hospital. Additionally, wear Nitrile type disposable gloves. For those with latex allergy (more common than you think) the Nitrile will not give you problems. They cost about $15 a box, and you'll have plenty!
STEP THREE: Use a high quality brush, and have the Petit brand thinner on hand for clean up. Be sure to mask carefully, as I described. A single coat will cover well. I did half my non-skid as the first step, while rebuilding the boat. That was a test of the paint, to see how it held up, as I worked on the boat for the last 2 months. I walked on it with dirty shoes (had a little rain, here), and various oil and grease from the driveway. It seems like a good product. Last, but not least, if we get really desperate and have to take it off, we won't be much worse off than we were....and there's always Treadmaster!
leinfam@earthlink.net
Oxalic acid wash is also available from auto refinishing suppliers, for rinsing rust particles out of areas you don't want to sand. Most new car dealers can tell you where to get some, as iron particle fallout is what makes the little orange spots in white paint. Do NOT try to polish it off, you'll only drive it deeper.
CAUTION: Do not use this scouring powder cleaner/pad combination on your white gelcoat or it will take a lot of repolishing. I used it on mine, but my boat is better off looking "classicaly used" (it's really been beat).
STEP TWO: Clean the entire non-skid surface with wax remover. This is the stuff you use on bare fiberglass before applying the bottom paint primer. Use the blue paper towel from the auto parts store (comes on large rolls). Do NOT use plain paper towels. The wax remover breaks down the starch binders in the paper, and leaves it on the surface.
CAUTION: Wear a decent mask, with the activated charcoal filters. They don't cost much, are easy to use, and will keep you out of the hospital. Additionally, wear Nitrile type disposable gloves. For those with latex allergy (more common than you think) the Nitrile will not give you problems. They cost about $15 a box, and you'll have plenty!
STEP THREE: Use a high quality brush, and have the Petit brand thinner on hand for clean up. Be sure to mask carefully, as I described. A single coat will cover well. I did half my non-skid as the first step, while rebuilding the boat. That was a test of the paint, to see how it held up, as I worked on the boat for the last 2 months. I walked on it with dirty shoes (had a little rain, here), and various oil and grease from the driveway. It seems like a good product. Last, but not least, if we get really desperate and have to take it off, we won't be much worse off than we were....and there's always Treadmaster!
leinfam@earthlink.net