Recaulking cockpit coamings

[Gerry/BarracudaCD25]

In the last year I removed my cockpit coamings, washed the mold out and sanded, placed several coats of varnish reinstalled and replugged. Now I would like to recaulk. I believe originally the coamings had polysulfide caulk. Is there something better? 4200? White silicone? Whats recommended?

[Patrick Turner]

I have used the black silicone that is used for teak decks. I think 3m puts one out. It's tough as nails, really sticks and I think the black line adds a nice clean graphic edge to the coaming.

Pat



patrick.t@home.com

[DON]

I have used the black silicone that is used for teak decks. I think 3m puts one out. It's tough as nails, really sticks and I think the black line adds a nice clean graphic edge to the coaming.

Pat

uSE 5200 - TAPE WOOD AND FIBERGLASS- USE FINGER TO GIVE CONCAVE
SHAPE - REMOVE TAPE ===== PRO JOB

[DON]

I have used the black silicone that is used for teak decks. I think 3m puts one out. It's tough as nails, really sticks and I think the black line adds a nice clean graphic edge to the coaming.

Pat

uSE 5200 - TAPE WOOD AND FIBERGLASS- USE FINGER TO GIVE CONCAVE
SHAPE - REMOVE TAPE ===== PRO JOB

[Don Craig]

I wouldn't suggest using 5200 on any application that may be removed in the future. 5200 is too tenacious.

I have used the black silicone that is used for teak decks. I think 3m puts one out. It's tough as nails, really sticks and I think the black line adds a nice clean graphic edge to the coaming.

Pat

uSE 5200 - TAPE WOOD AND FIBERGLASS- USE FINGER TO GIVE CONCAVE
SHAPE - REMOVE TAPE ===== PRO JOB

[Don Carr]

I used Boat-Life teak colored caulk last year. The polysulfite is pretty much the standard. Silicon/3m 5200 have not proven to be the best choices in the long run.



carrd@us.ibm.com

[John R.]

5200 and other polyurethanes are not good exposed to sunlight. UV will deteriorate polyurethane quicker than polysulfide (Lifecaulk, 3M 4200). 5200 would be a poor choice for coamings or any other location on deck exposed to UV. 5200 is a construction *adhesive*/sealant, not a bedding or caulking compound. It seems it is misused all the time. UV will eventually harden, yellow and crack 3M 5200. For coamings use polysulfide caulk or a high quality mildew proof silicone such as like Pat describes.

I have used the black silicone that is used for teak decks. I think 3m puts one out. It's tough as nails, really sticks and I think the black line adds a nice clean graphic edge to the coaming.

Pat

uSE 5200 - TAPE WOOD AND FIBERGLASS- USE FINGER TO GIVE CONCAVE
SHAPE - REMOVE TAPE ===== PRO JOB

[fred]

In the last year I removed my cockpit coamings, washed the mold out and sanded, placed several coats of varnish reinstalled and replugged. Now I would like to recaulk. I believe originally the coamings had polysulfide caulk. Is there something better? 4200? White silicone? Whats recommended?

If you're going with varnish, you need to seal the teak before you bed it in place. You need to seal it with epoxy, two coats, then bed it and install it. 5200 is not the product to use, just in case you need to take it off again in the future. 5200 is forever...

The epoxy will keep the teak from absorbing water, after the bedding compound stops working. Bedding compound is not enough to prevent the teak from absorbing water, and then blowing off the varnish.

Never use silicone on anything to be painted or varnished....It causes fisheyes.



fred@hotsheet.com